406oc.co.uk

I discussed the problem with a friend of mine who's a bit more clued up on electronics than I am. First thing he said was "It sounds like a busted relay". Since there are only about 5 of them in the car, we just pulled each one in turn until the problem went away. The dealer wants £39 for a new one!...

It turned out that the relay responsible for switching the rear windscreen heater circuit was stuck on. I've just pulled it out for now while I source a replacement.

There doesn't seem to be any dampness anywhere, and I pulled the three plugs that seem to be connected to the ignition switch (I haven't removed the lower steering wheel shroud yet, but going by the haynes manual these are the right plugs.. will remove the shroud and confirm), and it made no differe...

teamster1975 wrote:Possibly the ignition barrel? You could test that by unplugging the barrel to see if everything goes off.

Where's the plug for that? Is it just under the steering column, or is it tucked away somewhere unexpected?

Will do, thanks. It's a nice warm day today (so far anyway), so if it is dampness it might clear itself up before I get a chance. Fingers crossed.. otherwise I can just see the main dealer charging my monthly salary to troubleshoot this one, so I'd rather find a fix.

Hi Guys, I've got a 406 Turbo Exec that just last night developed a weird electrical problem. It's got the following symptoms: - Remote central locking has stopped working (the key's LED still lights, so it's not flat) - Accessories circuit always seems to be on So even with the ignition key removed...

i would like to mod my engine with a nice turbo... i have the std 2.0 at the min... will soon have a gti6 inlet manifold on their, and was thinking ide like to turn it to a tubby, but couldnt bring my self to spend 1500 on the kit from dp enginering You might have to.. at least to get a turbo manif...

I just used the cheapest controller off ebay. Just set it to what i wanted and left it. Had to tweak it a bit recently as the cooler weather gives slightly higher boost. Its running 12psi happily. I've been running 12psi for the last 18,000 miles without issue. I've yet to fit my AFR gauge but I be...

Of course if you want to try and get more performance out of your car, don't let the naysayers put you off completely :P Electronic boost control is going to give you the most control over the shape of the boost curve, so go with that if you can. Just don't go over 1 bar. The map sensor doesn't have...

can any one please tell me in my case which ecu might help me to reduce the knock Yes - invest in some proper boost control, 3bar map sensor, or a decent ECU. Even if you can adjust fueling with the ECU you've install your adjustments will only be based on engine load and throttle position, but the...

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but I'm taking the door cards off but can't get the damn plug for the power window switches away from the wiring harness.. it looks like someone's tried it before as there seem to be bits broken off, but none of the remaining parts that look like they should be pr...

No, it's very predictable. Because it's working off the injector duty cycle if you hold the car at a constant load point the amount of boost reaching the wastegate actuator is constant and so boost does not fluctuate. The boost control strategy is different to what you usually find. In most factory ...

Since I just put the final touches on my new programmable electronic boost control setup I felt like canvasing you lot to see who's doing what for aftermarket boost control. I initially played with fitting a bleed valve on the wastegate line after the boost control solenoid which kept the factory bo...

Well had to answer my own question on this one. Since I'd scavenged the factory solenoid for my EBC the ECU couldn't see a load across the wires the solenoid used to be connected to. A multimeter revealed the resistance of the solenoid coil to be about 28ohm, and a trip to Maplins yielded a 10W 33oh...

It's one of these. You need to be friendly with a soldering iron though and you'll need one of these to tune it.

See article here and here