406oc.co.uk

I keep coming back to the sunroof drains, mainly because the seal around them is 14 yrs old now and shows it. But still never once found them blocked or clogged, and I can pour a kettle full of water down each at a good rate, and it drains fine. So I struggle to think how rain can get down there equ...

Wasn't the windscreen, as said I had it changed because of a crack this weekend, and watched the old one out and new one in. No evidence of water getting through there. It's yet to rain properly to check the new windscreen, :) But should be fine seeing the bead of gunk used to glue it in. I did actu...

I'd forgot about the aerial

But have checked it out, and it's not coming from there, sealed it anyway just in case for the future.

Right, bit of history first, 2001, 406 110 HDI exec estate (semimux) Occasionally when raining heavily, and sometimes washing the car with hosepipe, I can get the occasional drip from the alarm sensor on the passenger A column. Also when turning corners this can then drip from the interior light/sun...

Black leather coupe steering wheel, in excellent condition, Not really showing any lacquer wear on the leather at all, and very few marks. It is from a D8 model. (complete with airbag) Bought in mistake for my early D9 estate (semi-mux), to replace the leather wheel in that which is showing quite a ...

:arrowu: :arrowu: :lol: £90-£110!! jeez that's expensive. The tacho on my accord clocks went haywire last year, and ended up with a scrap set to replace them, it only cost £20 for the guy to come out to my work, and reprogram the new clocks to my original mileage. Had a laptop with him with all the ...

Excellent, thanks for the diagram!

If it's only the mileage holding you up on some cheap clocks,
then you can always get it reprogrammed by a mobile service.
Someone like dashdoctor will come out to you and reprogramme the mileage for about £20-£40.
Usually only takes about half an hour aswell.

That sounds relly bad. I have now definately elimated both passenger and driver switches. The motor itself works fine. All the wiring is passing continuity testing, all the fuses are intact. The last thing I've found in the diagram is this for the bsi :( http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb371/rus...

Do you know if it has replaceable relays in it?

Or does it look like having to replace the bsi to cure a daft window problem, and would that mean having to program it to work with alarm/immobiliser ect?

Right thanks to all the suggestions I've eliminated some more possibilities, and after going back to the wiring diagram in Haynes, it seems I need to find what is called the 'built-in systems interface' So far I'm assuming it could be part of the fusebox in the drivers footwell, but not entirely sur...

Maybe I need to check out the door wiring again both sides more thoroughly.

The thing I don't understand is that I can get 12v reading on the multimeter, at the connector to the passenger window motor, every time I press up on either the drivers switch assy, or the passenger one.

Yeah, thanks for the link. I did see this post, which made me take the drivers switch apart, and unfortunately not the cure for my problem. Only the drivers window has the auto function, and so only this one has the little rubber boot over the switch that can get gummed up. The rest of the windows (...

May be just the microswitch in the fob not working.

But at least you know you can deadlock it if needed now.

From what I remember in the book, don't think you have to have an alarm to still have deadlocks. Worth trying the key in the door method twice to check for deadlocks. turn it once to lock it, let the key return but don't take it out of the lock, then turn it again, and you should get another locking...