characteristics of dmf failure 2001 hdi 110

[annie10]

will check engine mountings when rain stops but in meantime symptoms are

when i blip the throttle the engine shudders a little , when driving, on the overrun there is a considerable vibration until the revs get back to tick-over speed.
vibration under the passenger feet mostly on the overrun.noticed the engine shakes more on start-up and shut down aswell. when at driving speed on accelerating or constant revs there is no vibration
mileage 140k

[gumby6371]

Sounds like a bottom engine mount to me

Blip the throttle and check for excessive engine movement, shouldn't move more than 15 to 20mm ish. The bush itself is easy to spot with the drivers side jacked up, roughly under where your left foot would be. Pretty sure there are a few pics on here and plenty of discussion.

Bottom mount can be changed in situ but is a bit of a faff, usual method is drive shaft off and get new push pressed in but this involves fluid loss from the gearbox and you're better off replacing the drive shaft seal with this method.

I prefer the in situ method as it saves messing with drive shafts if you have limited facilities like me and your doing the job on your driveway. You'll need ramps, something to cut/chop the old bush out and something to 'persuade' the new bush in.
OE quality bushes cost a little more but are easier to 'persuade' in as they're a better fit. Freezing the new bush over night is said to shrink it slightly but I've never measured to confirm this, grease helps as well.

There is a correct orientation for the bush but I can't remember what it is, I'm sure someone else can fill in the gap here soon.

I'll be changing mine soon as the previous owner fitted a poly bush, it does reduce engine movement to virtually zero but it also turns the car into a sex toy when its stationary and raise cabin noise a bit. I wouldn't reccomend them on a road car TBH.

[annie10]

thanks for the help. very appreciated. at least its not definitely the dmf.
will take a look at the rear mount when rain stops. sounds fiddly but a lot better than changing a clutch and dmf without a ramp

[annie10]

on start up it makes a rattle noise for a few seconds but if i rev a little the rattle stops right away. for a few seconds and goes to normal but does move a lot and on shut down the engine moves a lot prob 3 inches at the top of the engine and really judders.

[jasper5]

As I mentioned already, check your engine mountings first!

I would not advise anyone to try to change these lower mounts in situ.
It's so much easier to remove the driveshaft and take off the mounting block from the back of the engine.I would never do it without removing the driveshaft....believe me, if it were easier to do it in situ then I would do it that way....I've had plenty of practice over the years.

[annie10]

removing the shaft and renewing gear oil isnt a problem. it sounds better to remove the shaft to give some more room to work in.

[annie10]

couldn't find a walk through in the knowledge base so will go get a Haynes manual, it should be in there.

[jasper5]

couldn't find a walk through in the knowledge base so will go get a Haynes manual, it should be in there.

Have a read of this.....viewtopic.php?f=10&t=20950

The driveshaft has 2x11mm nuts and bolts holding the driveshaft into the inner bearing housing (the mounting block)...take out these bolts (they swivel inside the housing) and pull the driveshaft from the gearbox.

You can now undo the bolts holding the lower mount and also the bolts holding the mounting block to the engine block...you will need a 16mm and 18mm socket or spanner.
The gearbox drain plug is an 8mm square, the same as the Sump plug socket on Renault and other cars...you can buy a socket or use a metal square that fits inside your door handle on any door in your house...useful for tensioning the timing belt as well.

Mark the position of the mounting inside the housing (the rubber blocks) and fit the new one in the same way/angle.

You can use a vice and cut out the inner metal ring with a hacksaw after removing the rubber block.
File out and clean the aluminium housing, clean up the new mounting and grind or sand it down a little all the way round.
Grease the mounting and the housing and press the new one in using the vice.
Refit to the car and rebuild....you could ask a garage or engineer to press the new one in.
If you are replacing the driveshaft oil seal get one from the dealer, they cost the same as aftermarket, but do actually fit!

Speaking of gearbox oil, I forgot to add that you need 1.9 litres of 75w80 gearbox oil.

To fill the gearbox take out the air filter box and undo the plastic breather from the top of the gearbox, fill it from here.It's a standard hexagon fitting, the spanner size escapes me atm.

[annie10]

thats brilliant. thanks so much. a bit of a faff but doesn't sound too difficult.
thanks

[steve_earwig]

Nicely! Can we hand out knighthoods on here?

[jasper5]

Nicely! Can we hand out knighthoods on here?

I added some info about filling the gearbox.

[annie10]

thanks for the help.took it to a local garage for a second opinion and they say the bottom mount has completely gone, rotted away and they don't think the flywheel is bad at all otherwise it would vibrate through the rev range aswell as on start-up.

[jasper5]

thanks for the help.took it to a local garage for a second opinion and they say the bottom mount has completely gone, rotted away and they don't think the flywheel is bad at all otherwise it would vibrate through the rev range aswell as on start-up.

Brilliant