Anti pollution Fault on my de-fapped 406.

[Peter86]

Morning Guys,

For the last two days I have had my engine management light on and "Anti pollution fault" on the screen display.

I have removed my DPF and had the ECU adjusted to suit in 2013 with no problems since. (Thanks doggy)

Anybody know why I am getting this fault again?

Regards

Pete

[gumby6371]

It can relate to a multitude of things mate not just the DPF.
My money is on a vacuum leak/blockage, check the pipe work for splits, swirl flap diaphragm and also the electrovalves but they're tricky to test without a vacuum gauge.
If your vac system is standard it might be worth modifying/minimising it as it removes quite a few potential leaks and fit new pipe while you're at it as its cheap enough to do. For a tidy job you'll find the pump to servo pipe from a 110 has just the right amount of connectors so you don't need to bodge any blanked off pipes.

I remember putting some info about doing mine on here but its a bit awkward for me to search as I'm currently flat out at work
A quick search at your leisure should find it.

Best of luck

[gumby6371]

In addition to my first post....having had a quick skim through your power loss thread, does it drop power around 2100 RPM?
If so then I'm even more confident in my vac leak diagnosis, mine did that under acceleration just as it tried to activate the swirl flap.
I found a small split in a pipe which meant insufficient vacuum to activate and hold the swirl flap followed by APF message and limp mode.

You can see the flap activate if you have incredibly long and bendy legs or alternatively get someone else to press the go pedal while you look at the engine. It should retract and stay there over 2100 RPM or there abouts.

If you're anywhere near Telford it would be nice to have a tinker with a 2.2 again

[GingerMagic]

Hi mate, I agree that this is more than likely to be vacuum related, or sticky vanes....

If you have access to a code reader then this will help to pinpoint the problem ( some cheaper readers don't always work.. )

Amazon have a hand-held vac pump/gauge in a red box for about £15 - money well spent in my opinion

[rwb]

Yep, it's just a generic message and could mean anything. On my HDi 90 it was often the throttle position sensor. Get the fault code read to find out the root cause for certain.

[GingerMagic]

I'm going to take a guess at P0238 'turbo overboost or short circuit to positive' as it seems quite common....

[Peter86]

In addition to my first post....having had a quick skim through your power loss thread, does it drop power around 2100 RPM?
If so then I'm even more confident in my vac leak diagnosis, mine did that under acceleration just as it tried to activate the swirl flap.
I found a small split in a pipe which meant insufficient vacuum to activate and hold the swirl flap followed by APF message and limp mode.

You can see the flap activate if you have incredibly long and bendy legs or alternatively get someone else to press the go pedal while you look at the engine. It should retract and stay there over 2100 RPM or there abouts.

If you're anywhere near Telford it would be nice to have a tinker with a 2.2 again

Guys - thank you very much for all the info it is extremely useful.

Gumby - this makes sense as I haven't got to the bottom of the power cut problem - its so intermittent I cant seem to pin point it, and my broken OBD port really isn't helping matters.
What you have described seems spot on - most of the time I get the issue I am on the motorway, which would mean I am between 2000 + 2500rpm.

Where is this swirl flap located? what does it look like?

[gumby6371]

Just dug out my post regarding similar issues;
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21373&p=214750&hili ... ap#p214750

There's a handy youtube clip on the swirl actuator which should help identify it.

Unfortunately a leak ANYWHERE in the vac system can potentially cause problems to other items fitted to the circuit which is a complete PITA to diagnose properly. This is why I suggest any 2.2 owner with a de-fap non egr map modifies the vac system by removing everything they don't need.
All the piping you need is;
vac pump to brake servo
spur to turbo ev then turbo
spur to swirl EV then swirl actuator
As I said previously the pipe from a 110 is great as it only has 2 spurs so no dodgy bungs in pipes and a neater looking job.

You should now have 3 redundant electrovalves, a spare vacuum reservoir and an arm full of vacuum pipe you don't need!!!

[Peter86]

Great stuff - I will look at this tonight. Hopefully found a fix for my OBD port so I can get some errors as well.

Looking at the video the swirl valve is in-between the air intake and engine, gearbox side?

Doggy did the MAP on my car - I know it was De-FAP - not sure if it was NON EGR as well - is it?

Have you got a list of piping I need to remove? What are the three redundant electro valves?

Thanks again

[gumby6371]

Yep, thats the cookie...bit of a pig to change as the mounting bolts are awkward to get at but I'd do the pipe work mod first and you may find your problem goes away.

You need to keep 2 electrovalves;
The turbo EV, usually on the left of the 3 on the bulkhead as you look at the engine.
The swirl actuator EV is located directly under where the EGR pipe bolts to the intake manifold.

I left the redundant EV's in place and plugged in but removed all the vac pipe

I have a copy of the non EGR map but you'll need to fix the OBD first obviously.
I don't think you'll have any issues even if it isn't turned off in the map. Planet will probably log a fault but it doesn't usually give an EML fault or limp mode disconnecting the EGR.

Your local motor factors should have a length of vac pipe for £5 or less and the only fiddly bit will be from the EV down to the turbo. If memory serves I never got round to swapping that bit of pipe as the car got sold before the to-do list was finished
The pipe to the actuator will need the air filter out (unless you have exceptionally slender arms) which will expose the redundant dozer EV at the same time.
In a nutshell you should end up with 2 EV's piped up and everything else blanked.

[Peter86]

Thanks gumby - will have a look at this tonight and see if I can get my around what needs to pipe to where and locate all these EVs!

[GingerMagic]

If you are local to Bournemouth I am happy to guide you through the process, should you need some help

[Doggy]

If you need any help with it, I'm happy to oblige.

As the others have said, I wouldn't be surprised if it's our old friend the overboost fault and my prime suspects would be the swirl flap actuator or a simple vacuum leak.

[Peter86]

Morning all,

Had a look at the swirl flap last night and the actuator seemed to be acting as per normal (like in the vid)

Managed to fix the OBD port and get her plugged in last night. Faults that showed up were:

P0380 - preheating relay circuit
P1112 - Fuel rail pressure
P0571 - Brake contact signal
P0221 - Throttle position 2 sensor circuit
P0121 - Throttle position 2 sensor circuit


The last two raise a concern - could a faulty TPS explain the cut outs? Or would that just be the reason my cruise control isn't working anymore (Not bothered about CC)

Pete

[Doggy]

P0380 - preheating relay circuit

They (mostly) all do that, sir.

P1112 - Fuel rail pressure

This could be the culprit - any idea whether it was high or low pressure?

P0571 - Brake contact signal

This will probably be your CC gremlin

P0221 - Throttle position 2 sensor circuit
P0121 - Throttle position 2 sensor circuit

Could also be your cutting out problem.

Did you clear them / see which came back?