Rear Brake Drum Dismantling

[dom07968]

Hello,

Hopefully someone can help me. My 1996 406 salon, god bless, has failed the MOT on the hand brake which has led to brake binding.
So, i'm trying to remove the rear drum on the driver's side to replace the rear section of handbrake cable as the garage freed the wheel and this seems to be the route cause. The Haynes manual mentioned poking a rod through a hole in the backplate which was covered by a blue grommet. I've tried and tried but just can't seem to move or hold back anything inside the drum that should free the drum entirely for easy removal. At the moment i'm worried if i yank the drum too much i'll damage the brake cyclinder. I've done a complete drum change before but that was nearly 5 years ago, same car mind you, but do seem to recall the drums came off not problem as the friction material had delaminated from the shoes so never had to resort to this particular step.
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Dom

[mjb]

If it's a disc brake model, the adjuster should be opposite and slightly down from the calliper. See here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7219

[steve_earwig]

...a hole in the backplate which was covered by a blue grommet....brake cyclinder

It's drums. Umm, what sort of state is it in - is the drum mobile but held back by the shoes? How did the garage free the wheel, cut the cable? I've given drums all sorts of grief in the past but never hurt a wheel cylinder. Haynes says bash it about with a hide-faced mallet, you could try this while giving the drum some encouragement with a large flat-bladed screwdriver. If you don't have said mallet be careful as they can shatter (not that I've had one shatter either...)

[dom07968]

Thanks for the replies,

The unit is drum only, it's a rather basic 406. 1.9 LX DT.
Well the drum is unable to be spun by hand, The garage didn't share their knowledge on how they freed it
The parking brake cable to the drum housing is immovable. I've already got the replacement part.
I've whacked the drum most of the way around with a hammer with an interviening piece of wood.
I can get about 7-8mm of the drum off but there is less off towards the base of the drum and i can't get a good enough swing with the hammer there.
The concern for the brake cylinders was that last time i wasn't sure if the shoes which contact the cylinder didn't catch the seals as these were weeping on removal of the drum.

I think i may cut the cable at the weekend near the backplate and have another crack at it and be a bit more forcefull with the hammer.
I've not far to go to the garage if it all goes wrong.
Any additional comment is welcomed.
Dom

[nigelw]

hi there this should help you as i have come across a problem like this many a time working on customers cars the answer to this rather than cutting the handbrake cables which may not solve the problem if the adjusters are seized is to put a set of hub pullers on the drum and this should pull the drum off over the stub axle make sure it comes off straight as this can shatter the rear wheel bearing if it does not come off the hub straight give it a swift tap with a hammer should allow it to come off easily you can get a set of hub pullers from many motor factors i got mine from halfords you them alot in a dealer type environment had them bout 2 yrs and the work brilliantly

hope this helps


nigel