Clutch Change-How-To.

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mjb
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by mjb »

Sponginess is bad bleeding (it's caused by trapped air compressing), however I was just thinking I forgot to do the recommended 40 pumps thing after the final bleed, and it didn't seem so bad the closer I got to home on the way back from work, so it may just be a lack of pressure, which those 40 pumps are supposed to build up

fingers crossed anyway, I am NOT going through all that again - it can stay as it is until I have the money to pay someone :lol:
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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swiss
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by swiss »

Nice work our Matt. I'm definitely weighing up the situation. First I'd have to get my estate (with which I'd replace the saloon anyway) so I was still mobile, then I'd have to find some serious bollocks to attempt this job.

Mind you, all my mates reckon I'm well manly already after the Omega situation ^_^

Suggest we start a fund to buy Jasper a light aircraft, allowing him to get to all our houses with ease ^^
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mjb
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by mjb »

swiss wrote:Nice work our Matt. I'm definitely weighing up the situation. First I'd have to get my estate (with which I'd replace the saloon anyway) so I was still mobile, then I'd have to find some serious bollocks to attempt this job.
Yeah, there's a few things you need before you consider this job

1) A garage. I really wouldn't try this outdoors unless you live somewhere it'll never rain or be too windy
2) My 406-specific howto (coming soon)
3) The right tools, supplies and equipment (big list, will be in the howto)
4) Alternative transportation
5) Time
6) Balls of steel :lol:

It's not actually that difficult a job to do, just very long with many sub-jobs. If you've got the above, the only hard parts are putting the gearbox back on (due to its weight), not mis-placing anything, and getting those goddamn wheelarch screws out, but for a noobie like I was, I wouldn't suggest trying it without my forthcoming howto.

Despite all the pain it's caused me, it is a very liberating, confidence building and educational experience. The sense of achievement at the end of it is out of this world!

Later in the year in exchange for beer and somewhere to crash for the night, I may be persuaded to assist people wishing to do theirs since I now seem to know these infernal things intimately (I can pretty much tell you the location and size of every single bolt forward of the bulkhead now, off the top of my head!!!) :shock: , but for now I'm determined not to even lift my own bonnet to put on the battery cover I forgot about, for at least a month :lol: I need to recover :cheesy:
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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Welly
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by Welly »

I reckon any judderyness will clear up with use. You would have a smoother operation if you'd have change the flywheel but I just think the judder is the grippyness of the new friction material (I hope).
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by steve_earwig »

Change the flywheel??!! Surely t aint got a Dodgily Manufactured Flywheel :shock:
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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Welly
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by Welly »

steve_earwig wrote:Change the flywheel??!! Surely t aint got a Dodgily Manufactured Flywheel :shock:

I just fort the flywheel may have deposits of stickyness/contamination hindering it's smooth rotational, err, rotation?

Maybe a few 'Grand Prix' starts are in order?
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2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
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Captain Jack
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by Captain Jack »

Welly wrote:...fort....
:?:
Welly wrote:...hindering it's smooth rotational, err, rotation?
Operation?

:mrgreen:
2003 - 2008: 1998 Peugeot 406 2.1 TD 110bhp LX Saloon
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp :twisted:)
2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by steve_earwig »

Captain Jack wrote:
Welly wrote:...fort....
:?:
= fank, finkded, funked.
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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Captain Jack
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by Captain Jack »

I am non-the-wiser :|
2003 - 2008: 1998 Peugeot 406 2.1 TD 110bhp LX Saloon
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp :twisted:)
2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
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mjb
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by mjb »

Took the car for a few hundred mile drive to Swindon and back yesterday. The juddering disappeared over the course of the day, although i did notice the car feeling a lot more perky on the way home. I'm starting to suspect I may have a cylinder not firing. Again.
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by steve_earwig »

Was that perky or porky? :supafrisk:
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Re: Clutch Change-How-To.

Post by Springnuts »

Hi all,

Interested to read this long and informative post. I took the 'easy' way and got the local garage to change the clutch - but I have had the juddering issue on the new one. It is improving slowly - 3000 miles down the line - so I hope it is just an extended form of bedding in! Regards, Springnuts.
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