pug 406 starting and running problem (help)

[Gary406]

if you seen air bubbles in the fuel line that could be your problem,

before you fire the car up prime the system with the prime pump,
its a little black rugby ball shape pump on the suspension arm (drivers side) pump it till it goes firm

then try fire see if it starts better

[Gary406]

have you checked the anti freeze ? if yes and you have sum in it shouldnt be the timing because what ste 1st thought was freezing of the water pump would have made the timing belt jump,

but if you have checked the anti freeze and its ok its looking like them air bubbles could be the cause

[mark21TD]

I agree with Garry, air in the system will course you problems,
where are to bubbles, in the fuel in line (to the pump) or return line (from the pump),
if it's the in line the first thing to do is change the fuel filter, if it's still happening you need to look at the filter houseing and tank strainer,
if it's in the return line and there's none in the in line then the pump staft seal has gone, this is quite a big job to do but the seal is only a few quid.

[rsmski]

The fuel filter was changed about 5 weeks ago and the air bubbles are in the clear pipe that comes from the fuel filter?

Cheers rich

[mark21TD]

Are there any bubbles going into the filter ?
if there is then it could be the primer bulb is perished and sucking in air, or any of the joints in the pipework between tank and filter.
if there isn't then it's most likely to be the base gasket on the filter housing, but could also be the filter seal it's self (try wipping a small amount of grease over the seal and put the top back on) or the fuel temp thurmostat (L/H/S of the housing, small round bit, normally wight, held in with one of those push fit metal fasteners).
Also check the filter water drain is done up nice and tight as this will have the same effect.
Air leaks are a bugger to find as they wont leak diesel out as you would think they would.

[rsmski]

hi all
air bubbles problem now fixed, replaced the fuel filter houseing and that fixed it.......however.....now the car has thawed out i have found that the waterpump has now gone, when i squeeze the big water pipe at the front of the car water pissed out where the waterpump is can someone please explain how to change this?


bloody car hahaha

[highlander]

If your water pump has died, then this is a perfect time to replace the cambelt and tensioners at the same time. It is an expensive repair - the lowest I was quoted was about £350 including parts, labour and VAT - but it then shouldn't need done for another 8 years or 80,000 miles, so it's excellent piece of mind.

Unless your cambelt was changed recently, it makes no sense not to get it done now that your water pump has snuffed it.

Having the cambelt changed is also a good thing to show people in your service history when you do come to sell the car on.

[poddack]

mmmmmm,diesel not starting in cold weather always makes me think glow plugs, the bubbles in your fuel line could well be causing an uneven idle, I'm having the same problem with my 2.1td and there are tiny bubbles in the pipe. Lack of power could well be a timing thing!

[steve_earwig]

I wonder if a frozen water pump would break the seal

[StevieboyTD]

If your water pump has died, then this is a perfect time to replace the cambelt and tensioners at the same time. It is an expensive repair - the lowest I was quoted was about £350 including parts, labour and VAT - but it then shouldn't need done for another 8 years or 80,000 miles, so it's excellent piece of mind.

Unless your cambelt was changed recently, it makes no sense not to get it done now that your water pump has snuffed it.

Having the cambelt changed is also a good thing to show people in your service history when you do come to sell the car on.

£350 is an absolutely hideous price for a relatively straight forward job.

[steve_earwig]

That probably includes the powerflow exhaust...

[highlander]

Nope, no Powerflow

It's a horrendous price for a simple job that I don't have the tools, technical know-how, self-confidence, or garage space to tackle myself.

Well, going more into the pricing, the £350 is for the belt & tensioners, the water pump, 4.5 hours of garage labour, and VAT. The labour is (as always) the killer, and I guess that in January, I'll be paying 20% VAT instead of 17.5% VAT

The most expensive quote I got back was more than £120 more than that...

[StevieboyTD]

I need to go back on my tools really if that is how pricing has gone!

Need to see if the wife is going to be more "generous" when i swap her fuel pump and "do her belts" (fnar fnar)

[steve_earwig]

Labour's about 25 quid an hour here (for those that have to pay it ), shame the parts are so much more expensive

This is a 1.9 right? A new timing belt etc. with labour on top probably makes it beyond economical repair so it has to be diy I reckon. You have to take the belt off to get to the water pump anyway and I don't think you'd be wise to put back the old belt.

Did you check the timing yet? That's your decider, there's no point in changing belt etc. if the original fault's still there.

[Gary406]

If your water pump has died, then this is a perfect time to replace the cambelt and tensioners at the same time. It is an expensive repair - the lowest I was quoted was about £350 including parts, labour and VAT - but it then shouldn't need done for another 8 years or 80,000 miles, so it's excellent piece of mind.

Unless your cambelt was changed recently, it makes no sense not to get it done now that your water pump has snuffed it.

Having the cambelt changed is also a good thing to show people in your service history when you do come to sell the car on.

£350 is an absolutely hideous price for a relatively straight forward job.

£350 sounds ok to me for new cambelt kit and water pump fitted