GingerMagic wrote:Hi, yes the valve on the left. The part number should be looking for a replacement is 1628 HC, all the ones on the bulkhead have the same part number on ServiceBox.
There are 2 pipes on this valve - 1 runs up to the vacuum reservoir under the servo - the other disappears out of sight behind the engine. This one is the one that closes the turbo wastegate ( I think ) so if it is a dodgy valve then the wastegate is stuck open so affecting the boost. The valve closes the wastegate when activated.
Blanking the EGR at the inlet manifold is okay but you will also need to blank/remove the vacuum that feeds it. Simply remove the small pipe attached to the EGR and stuck something in the end... I chose to blank both ends of the EGR just to be safe as I had the car off the road for a month so there was plenty of time.
The EGR shouldn't affect the turbo but it can have its own problems so blanking it eliminates any potential issues
As for the vanes, I think they open automatically at higher revs ( I used to think the valve did it but I was wrong ) so what I do to lubricate them is to remove the soft black pipe from the rigid plastic air feed - there is an angled hole just after the MAF - and squirt WD40 into it when the engine is running. One hand to squirt and the other hand to rev the engine - this is what the VW boys do......
It is possible to remove the air-doser completely, these aren't required if EGR is blanked, myself, Doggy, Gumby have all done it with good results.
Hi, Thanks ALOT ! this is making more sens for me now.. Will be trying a new valve and also the WD40
About the EGR is there some sort of kit i can buy to replace the dosers or something like that?
Thanks again and will keep you updated on what will happen next
99% sure the waste gate requires vacuum to open hence over boost issues when leaks occur in the vac piping or dodgy electro valves (I have the T-shirt in small, medium and large). Mine used to throw up the anti-pollution fault and limp mode until I found a split in a tiny vac pipe
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
Problem Solved ( till now) , seems to be that the swirl valve is much more loose know.. Dont know if this had anything to do with the swirl valve but thats the only thing i noticed different..
Also (while still having the problem) i Blanked the EGR from the inlet manifold and the 406 is giving an extra 30 more miles! Does this realy make this much of a difference??
Thanks all for your kind help guys ! Really happy !
I'm glad its sorted, what did you do in the end - or did it sort of fix itself?
If the swirl valve was a bit stuck then maybe your engine is a bit coked up ( mine was an ex taxi so spent most of its life ticking over - always belched out smoke even when the EGR was blanked! ) so perhaps invest in some additive of your choice, Millers etc...
2003 2.2hdi estate - mine 1998 Volvo 940 auto estate - also mine 2019 Citroen C3 something - the wife's PP2000 user, can help with faults / diagnostics in the Bournemouth area.
GingerMagic wrote:I'm glad its sorted, what did you do in the end - or did it sort of fix itself?
If the swirl valve was a bit stuck then maybe your engine is a bit coked up ( mine was an ex taxi so spent most of its life ticking over - always belched out smoke even when the EGR was blanked! ) so perhaps invest in some additive of your choice, Millers etc...
It sorted out itself but as i mentioned earlier i did mix a bottle of EGR Cleaner (tho it is now blocked) and upon re fueling i mixed another bottled of Injector cleaner. Once i covered 20-25 miles with the injector cleaner it solved it self..
Horses for courses - some say they have no effect, others disagree.
I used Millers on my old 406, which had a good injector value when plugged into a diagnostic machine - my new 406 hasn't had any additive yet and the injector values are quite high. I'll try Millers on this one for about 6 months and see how it goes.
I don't find an increase in performance really, maybe a bit of placebo but I'm happier the engine 'seems' do be better off with the additive although I have no proper evidence it actually does anything.
2003 2.2hdi estate - mine 1998 Volvo 940 auto estate - also mine 2019 Citroen C3 something - the wife's PP2000 user, can help with faults / diagnostics in the Bournemouth area.
GingerMagic wrote:Horses for courses - some say they have no effect, others disagree.
I used Millers on my old 406, which had a good injector value when plugged into a diagnostic machine - my new 406 hasn't had any additive yet and the injector values are quite high. I'll try Millers on this one for about 6 months and see how it goes.
I don't find an increase in performance really, maybe a bit of placebo but I'm happier the engine 'seems' do be better off with the additive although I have no proper evidence it actually does anything.
I see, im not trying to find an increase in performance but i have a feeling that the engine is clogged up , since EGR was working for 120000 miles 80% of the time City Driving.. DPF was also clogged but that was solved by removing it and DPF Delete software. Is there a way on how to totaly clean the engine from cloggs?
Yes, a good run will help a lot - once the engine is warmed up of course......
I regularly let my engine 'breathe' when alongside some German executive blandness, normally in white - but only in the interest of clearing the engine out of course...
2003 2.2hdi estate - mine 1998 Volvo 940 auto estate - also mine 2019 Citroen C3 something - the wife's PP2000 user, can help with faults / diagnostics in the Bournemouth area.
The issue is that where i live in Malta the longest road here where you can revv up the engine a bit is only 2 km long... others than that is ALWAYS city traffic Think i might take it to the drag strip.. haha
It still points to a turbo EV, the one on the left - no solenoid operation means no wastegate opening = over boosting = EML light coming on....
Just a thought, if you look into the engine bay with the engine running, does the swirl ball thingy next to the engine cover move forwards when you rev the engine, it should move from horizontal to vertical and back again when you drop the revs.
2003 2.2hdi estate - mine 1998 Volvo 940 auto estate - also mine 2019 Citroen C3 something - the wife's PP2000 user, can help with faults / diagnostics in the Bournemouth area.
GingerMagic wrote:It still points to a turbo EV, the one on the left - no solenoid operation means no wastegate opening = over boosting = EML light coming on....
Just a thought, if you look into the engine bay with the engine running, does the swirl ball thingy next to the engine cover move forwards when you rev the engine, it should move from horizontal to vertical and back again when you drop the revs.
Yes swirl valve still moves but i think its taking much more revvs for it to move. So it is possible that an electro valve is being stuck sometimes? coz this seems to be an intermittent fault. Can an EV be intermittent? And i noticed that the EV is vibrating donno if this is normal.
Bdw What is the purpose of the swirl valve exactly? Does it open some kind of actuator?
The swirl valve shuts off air flow to half the inlet valves at low engine speeds to incease air velocity through the others and improve fuel atomisation / distribution within the cylinders. It should open at 2100 RPM.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Think i might take it to the drag strip.. haha