Engine swap!

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Thu May 24, 2007 6:14 pm

GRRRRR!!! Well the car seems to be resisting me at every turn. Started to remove the steering rod, droplink and caliper. All goes well. Get to the lower ball joint and started undoing it all was fine...until just near the end when the plastic on the nut started shedding making it VERY hard to undo. Got an assistant over to hold the allen key in the bottom of joint while I turned the nut...until it got so stiff it rounded the allan key. Hammered a torx in and got it out a bit more but eventually that rounded ( aswell as my spanner bending! Thank god it has a lifetime guarantee!). Pissed off I have ago at the other side and have exactly the same problems. Didn't get it undone so much on this side.

RIGHT! Out comes the angle grinder

Cut the ends of the ball joints off happy days. Ball joints are only a tenner a side.

Now the passenger side driveshaft came out a piece of piss. The drivers side one is trying my patience.....

Could someone explain exactly how I do the bolts? I am following haynes but either i'm not turning thbe bolts properly or the driveshaft is very stiff. I have loosened the nuts right up now which way do I turn the bolt so it will disengage the intermediate bearing. Clockwise or anti clockwise(looking from the passenger side). Any tips on getting the driveshaft out?

Next question, I understand I need a special socket to change the ball joints...Anyone on here have one of these sockets that they would be willing to lend me? I would pay postage and could paypal a deposit if they wished?

Failing that how much do they cost in the shops? I doubt I will never need it again so I could probably ebay it once used.

Cheers,

Rob

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Thu May 24, 2007 7:42 pm

these bolts are a right bastard, the way to work out if there is disengaged is to turn them and pull them, if they stick out a bit more then they are locked, push them towards the drivers side and turn them till they stop turning and have gone in, they are now disengaged, the driveshaft is i tight bloody fit in that bearing and will feel like the bolts are holding it, they aint, but do not pull the driveshaft at the CV joint end, push the centre section towards the drivers side, its very tight and extremely akward, but the only way you wont damage the driveshaft
when getting the 'shafts out of the hubs, i undo the strut clamp bolt and use an old axle stand as a punch and hammer the hub down and the hub almost release's from the strut, you then need to undo the top three strut bolts and wangle the strut out then you can get the shaft out of the hub

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Mon May 28, 2007 11:00 pm

That driveshaft is satan itself!!! Finally got it out. Helped a bit by levering the lengh of a massive screwdriver against the back piece of the driveshaft and the engine mount to help it out a bit. No damage caused and the driveshaft just popped out!

Then I took the engine out and got it resting on blocks of wood ready to be worked on tomorrow as I transplant the gearbox/wiring loom/ect so I can whack it back in. Hopefully by tomorrow night, weather permitting, the engine will be back in the car and that gives me wednesday to reconnect everythign back together and hopefully get the car running and taken on a couple test drives.

Wish me luck!!! P.S whats the easiest way to take the fuel pump off the engine? Cambelt is off so I can take the whole thing off, pulley and all, so do I need to undo all the metal fuel injector pipes or will they give slightly just so I can turn it enough to get a drill on the stop solinoid shild?

Also is the gearbox as easy as it looks to swap over?

Last but not least, I broke one of my selector rod things that attach to the hearbox. Are they cheap to buy from peugeot? Or shall I just have a go at repairing it?

Cheers,

Rob

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Tue May 29, 2007 6:57 pm

i did say those selectors will break, i think i paid £14 for two from pug, you will see they have modified one of them (the short one), dont repair them, i tried this and ended up having to pull out of junction in 4th gear as it had broken trying to find first gear
have you locked the pump?
then take the pump off with the bracket other wise you will upset the timing, you have to take all the metal pipes off and the rubber fuel supply hose, and the immobiliser loom plug needs to be unclipped
as for the gear box, they are a right pig too
the 1.9 uses a backwards clutch, like my 2.0, you have to align the clutch fork, which is part of the gearbox with the clutch release bearing which is part of the pressure plate, its sooo much easier with it all out of the car, read the haynes manual under the gearbox section it explains how to do it really well

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Tue May 29, 2007 11:22 pm

Well..........

Got gearbox swapped ok. Had to swap the fuel pumps over completely as the one on the new engine appears to be leaking a bit. Just locked it at TDC and swapped the whole unit over. If timing is out, the guy who has been helping me is a diesel mechanic so he can tune it. Got everything sorted really on the new engine, was just about to do the last few bits and drop it down into the car when...I discover the turbo on the new engine has different fitments and is mounted slightly higher (same bolt homes, but different
exhaust bracket thing). Anyway that stumped me as I was tired, incredibly pissed off, and unable to go any further until I get the new gaskets for re fitting the old turbo! Anyway I gave up and now i'm hoping the weather holds off tomorrow so I can get the turbos swapped, torque up all the bolts, fit the wiring loom, and get the engine in. If it is nice weather all day, I will try and get as much as possible back together but won't be filling up any coolant or oils until I have a chance to come back to the car on afresh day to check I haven't missed anything silly.

Anyway, Cheers for the help James. The gearchange thing was £13+vat (it was the bigger one) and I also picked up a downpipe gasket kit (which has the new bolts ect) for £8 +vat.

Fingers crossed I have better luck tomorrow!!!!!!

Cheers,

Rob

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Wed May 30, 2007 9:27 pm

Well it's in!!!!!

After lots of hard work and 4 grown men, an engine hoist, 2 jacks and a couple lever bars we have lift off!

Just got to get everything back together on friday

dervpower · Post by **dervpower** » Wed May 30, 2007 10:00 pm

which motors did you say were semi electronic and how does that work?

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Thu May 31, 2007 8:30 am

Are there seals on the gearbox where the driveshaft goes in? And if so should I replace them?

I know theres that weird rubber seal thingy on the drivers side but don't remember seeing anything on the geaqrbox. I am only asking as I'm away from my car til tomorrow so if I need them, would like to get them in the morning before I start getting dirty lol.

Cheers,

Rob

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Thu May 31, 2007 8:16 pm

well done robbie123!
its not a nice engine to change as you will know but not that hard really
theres an o-ring for the speedo housing, and the two driveshaft seals, i would replace all of them, be careful with the speedo housing as it has to be aligned perfectley on refitting and can be smashed when reffiting as its very brittle

dervpower wrote:which motors did you say were semi electronic and how does that work?

all 1.9's in the 406 had semi electronic injection and just controls preheating, postheating and the injection angle/timing, injection duration, on boost fueling and total fuel quantity is still controlled by the pump

it works by using a needle lift sensor, throttle position sensor and rpm sensor to determine the angle/timing and a coolant sensor to control the glowplugs

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:49 pm

Do the seals just prise out? (Only thing I can relate to is the dizzy end camshaft seal on the 400 series - is it similar sort of business?)

Had to give up after only a couple hours. Started to feel sick (think is was all the diesel that i'm spilling everywhere) so got the alternator and power steering pump on. Couldn't do the air con compressor as I need to get a spacer from Peugeot - the ones on my old engine are bigger! Why did they change the spacer hole?!!!!!!

Also got the gear linkages on and checked it moved through the gears ok and the linkage was all ok. Also connected the clutch up - is it self adjusting? Gave it a few pumps and it seems to be working. I won't know more till I Get the engine running and try and change gear I guess!

Tomorrow, I want to get the wiring loom all connected up, radiator, and all the cooling system plumbed in, Fuel system all connected up, and driveshafts in and struts back in place. Then it will fill with all teh fluids on sunday, double check everything and get all the plastic stuff back in place and give her a go!!!!

Oh any tips on getting the turbo to intercooler pipe, turbo end 10mm bolts in? Have it clipped in place, just need to get a child or something to get those pesky bolts down to hold it in place on the turbo!

Final question, I removed the tensioner from the aux belt when removing. I also undid the other roller. This roller appears to have moved in it's positioning somehow. I notice it is attached to a shock thingy thats attached to the engine. will this only bolt into place, or is it able to move? ( as in am I imagining it has moved!) the bracket is pressing against the alternator, thats all and I dont remember it doing so before.

Cheers,

Rob

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:52 pm

ive never changed a distributor seal on a 400 series actually

dont see many of those these days, had a XC90 T6 today, took me an hour to change the bloody plugs

anyways, the seals do prise out with a screwdriver, but as i already said, be careful of the speedo housing, its very soft and brittle, drift the new seals in with a rubber mallet

to adjust the clutch just give it a few pumps and it should be fine, as long as the pedal doesnt become slack or get stuck down it will be fine, did you have trouble refitting the gearboxes?

before you fill the cooling system with anti-freeze, run it with just water as if you have any leaks you will have to most likely drain the system to fix the leak which is just a waste of anti-freeze

that pipe is very tricky, did you replace the rubber o-ring on the pipe?
easiest way i found was to put the bolts in from the under the wheel arch with the liner removed, put the bolt on the engine side in 70% of the way, then put the other one in and tighten them up, dont go too mad as the plastic is quite brittle, a bit of oil on the seal and turbo makes this easier

when the belts off, the tensioner will move, you need to turn it with a 3/8" bar and then put the belt on like the 850 and early V70 tensioners

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:05 pm

Are Peugeot the most useless bunch of wan**rs or what? Went to get a few little parts I needed. Just bolts like the track rod end bolts, drop link bolts, a couple aircon mounting spacers (another thing peugeot have changed for smaller ones!) and a couple of power steering/alternator mounting bolts that have become damaged or lost..... Go there on saturday morning and after 20 minutes of going through everything I wanted, they inform me one of their systems is down which means they didn't know where in the stockroom to look...I was like "why have you lept me here for 20 minutes going through it all then?". They then said come back on monday and informed me even though I have the chassis number of the car the engine came from, they can't tell me for sure what spacers I need. I even have one spacer, just need another!!! Going to bodge it methinks rather than go through the hassle of trying to show the guy what parts I need. I'm going to have to get the peugeot parts program I think. Before with my volvo I would just go on Vadis, look up the part numbers and go and pick them up.

@James - Is the peugeot parts program similar to Vadis?

Anyway...I was a little peeved off as I can't do much really till I get the parts I need. Just spent yesterday tightening a few bits, connected up all the fuel hoses, and then today I connected the wiring loom up and most of the loom brackets (only hand tight for now). Don't want to connect the radiator ect up until the aux belt is on and can't do that till I get the mounting bolts so tomorrow night. Also can't connect the rear water pipes up as I am getting the girlfriends dad round (he has tiny and nimble hands!) to get down in behind the engine and conect the downpipe.

Oh well, hopefully by tuesday night it will be sorted. Only problem is my student finances are low so I start a job tomorrow so my daytime shave gone, otherwise I would have it all sorted by tomorrow night!

Anyway thats the progress I have made. Wish me luck when I have to go Peugeot on Monday. Hopefully they will be able to help me this time

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:19 pm

long gone are the days of VADIS, we started using VIDA about 18 months ago, its not that much of an improvement though, they have removed a lot of critical information and put a load of sh*t in it, but its sooo much faster, though less reliable, updates always cause problems and the VCT2000 breaks after about 6 months and a new one wont give you much change from £2k
the VADIS is similar to the peugeot LASER, ive got a very old peugeot parts system and LASER (though i cant get laser to work as im running ME not XP

) and all the part no's i got from the old system have been, although superseeded, correct
ill look up your bits for you now and see what i can find

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:00 pm

right here we go:

drop link nuts - 6936 84
track rod end nuts - 6939 42

now as for your other bits i cant be 100% sure as to what you need so ive got some pics here to help you out:

robbie123 · Post by **robbie123** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:08 pm

Cheers dude. Thats really helpful - should save me a bit of time at the parts desk. Is the power steering pump only held on 3 of the 4 mounts? I have the 2 mounting nuts on the pulley side and have the one mounting on the other side. I just thought there must be another bolt as there are holes and thread for it.