Oh bugger, Ithink the turbo's died :cry:

[steve_earwig]

What's wrong with a customer supplied part, especially if it's one a buddy's put together for you? How about "I need to have the belt done so I thought while you had it apart..."?

It really is in the lap of the gods, unless you can get a recommendation from someone local. I suppose the only way to cover yourself is make notes of everything, make sure you get reciepts and give the car a good look over and maybe a drive before you accept it. Did you try Googling the place, in case someone's had something to say about them?

[Smelliot]

That is true, I think I know the problem so I'm not paying to diagnose, I'm paying to install, which I guess any spanner monkey could do... one would hope

I know you've prob been over every inch of your problem, but by any chance is the wastegate actuator at fault? If the turbo is spooling in my knowledge, it should have something behind it, as you said intermittently means the turbo is there and not blocked, but if the car is pissing the boost out of the wastegate, hense flat as a pancake when you need power.

Thats my tuppence anyways, wouldn't know where to go from there unless you ask Niz

[puggy]

Supa has anyone in that garage actually driven a hdi that is running normally
or is it a case of "in our opinion its fine and we are never wrong " and can
you not lay your hands on a colleague, friend etc who has one and will go with
you to prove the point ??

[Welly]

Why didn't you use the coupe for a day?

[steve_earwig]

Insewerants, I'd imagine.

[Nicodemus]

Drove one of the company cars for a while last week because I got dropped in it by a previous co I drove for and had to deplate and replate my D9 (90). £105 I hadn't allowed for

Any road up, for what its worth - the co car is a 51 HDI 110 estate and the difference when accelerating compared to my old girl is very, very pronounced - turbo whistle is audible with windows open. Boost very obvious from around 1800 or so RPM depending on gear etc.

Dunno if that's going to help much.

Am I right in assuming you can't tell whether the new turbo is spinning up at all? Have you tried pressing the blade end of a screwdriver against the turbo body then your ear against the screwdriver handle and revving the engine? Sorry if I'm suggesting something you already know.

Just re-read the thread I'm more confused than ever wouldn't blame you at all if you started a fatwa on some o' they plonkers.

And to add to the thread drift, the present Mrs Git used to showjump until a few years ago, had a cracking little gelding called Dennis. Ah nostalgia... Just ain't what it used to be.

ttfn

[Welly]

I get a decent shove of boost/torque at 1800 to 3000 rpm.

The turbo whistles loudly and you can "play" with the throttle to produce a "Whssssssssss...psssshhhh" sound which is very clear with the window open (can only just hear somehing with window closed).

[Busman]

On my HDI 110 the turbo starts to do things at 1500 and is pulling well by 1750 / 1800. Oh for a decent garage who know what they are doing.

Hope that helps a little bit.

Richard.

[steve_earwig]

They're doing a CSI-style investigation on it, it's in thousands of little plastic bags, all sealed and labelled. (Or it's sitting in the corner unloved because they don't know how the hell to put it right and they figure if they string you along for long enough you'll either go mad or die of old age)

[steve_earwig]

Errr.... the worry is, will it give my BSI a brainstorm, necessitating an expensive trip to the stealers for a reset.

[Longintooth]

Hi you guys
The turbo will whistle when it's going good or bad since it is going very fast and it's the exhaust gas that is making most of the noise - now to get a clue if it's getting up to pressure and you don't have any gauges try looking closely at the top pressure hose as you rev the engine - you will see it expands slightly this indicates it is working at the very least - however, if the wastegate valve inside the turbo is leaking it will reduce the turbo effectiveness. The 406 D9 Hdi 110 will accelerate wildly and is exhilerating from very low throttle 900rpm through to 2300 in 4th gear then
in 5th gear should pull your neck back up to 2500 rpm. It certainly should not be sluggish unless your used to driving a Porche. My 406 will outperform the BMW series 316 i I have. To avoid long term problems never turn off the motor straight away after any run - let it idle for a few mins to cool off, when ever you change the oil always ensure the engine is turned over with the injectors disconnected until the oil pressure is up
- the oil filter takes a few mins to fully fill by which time the bearings in the turbo will have no oil belting through - burn the oil seals and you get leaks. I have worked on hundreds of truck turbos and when they go bad they usually just leak or are noisy when the bearings are knacked but they still ramp up the air pressure - if you get hold of the turbo shaft and waddle it side to side there should be a small amount of play not enough to touch the housing - this is quite normal even on new ones - they ride on a heavy layer of oil which is designed to remove the extreme heat they work under. Use the most expensive oil you can buy - it will pay dividends and I'm sorry to disagree but I would never flush out engine oil with flushing oil on turbos and certainly never ever run the engine for xxx miles on the stuff. If you do oil changes at normal intervals the oil will suspend all the nasties in it and drain out with the old oil. NB the flushing oil will not be good enough for the turbo bearings.

[Welly]

The other solenoid is the EGR valve. I've only got two on mine - the Turbo and the EGR, Supa has got the extra "Air Doser" one.


Oh sh*t and bollocks I forgot something - there was a guy on here ages ago with a lack of boost and it was the VAC Pump on the right-hand side of the camshaft. All that thinking about Vac lines/solenoids made me think of this! basically the vac pump wasn't sucking enough (oo-er) and wasn't controllng the wastgate (couldn't hold it shut).

Your car is used so much it may have worn the vac pump early? the pump's only about £60.00 if I remember. Would be worth checking this out!

[steve_earwig]

Wouldn't a failing vacuum pump make itself more apparent by a lack of assistance in the braking department?

[Longintooth]

Hi guys
The pressure pipe I'm refering to is the one that runs from the top of the intercooler to the manifold about 50mm diameter - runs from front to back. NB there is nothing in a turbo that will prevent it from turning except a bearing siezure so it will always whistle in other words it can't be switched off - only if the bearings are a gone or going it will make a distinct screech as it spools up but note long before a turbo gets to this point it will be leaking oil to the intercooler. On the 406 HDi it is the pipe from the turbo to the bottom of the intercooler - runs from front to back next to the sump. As I said earlier there is a small valve operated by a vacuum actuator that releases exhaust gas into the the inlet manifold at pre determined point in the engine operation - so it is shut when max power is demanded ie does not let any exhaust gas into the manifold. if this is stuck open all the time then the exhaust gas is bleeding into the inlet manifold constantly. EGR is to reduce the NOX emmissions by reducing the oxygen thus cooling the burn but only at certain times - not when you need the umph. So if this Actuator is disconnected then you can eliminate easily if the power is restored but if the valve in the turbo is not sealing you need to replace the turbo. Jack up front, remove all steering lower arms, track rods/joints, lower subframe(4 big nuts), slide out from under, lay on back and remove exhaust pipe and the turbo. Shut mouth when doing this or oil will fill it. The result will be 5 hours work plus replacement turbo £350 - if you don't like getting your hands dirty send into main dealer and pay £800. NB You need to check the little solenoid on bulkhead (two of them side by side) that switches the vacuum to this valve actuator ( rear o/s of engine) sits in a tight spot near the oil filler cap with small pipe running to it. If you look down the back of the engine you will see the actuator that is connected to the flap valve on the turbo.
Don't forget to check my other post on turbos. Er..... I think I've covered the basics sorry if I've missed some detail.

[mjb]

The service manager's exact words were "We're working on it now, I'm just going through all the parameters. It's boosting up nicely on computer in the garage to 1600 bar, but when you roadtest it, there doesn't seem to be any boost unless you take your foot off the throttle and then reapply it slowly. Then you get all the boost you need"

Am I the only one thinking it's triggering the over-boost cut-out?

And 1600 bar? That's about 23,000 PSI - probably more pressure than an atom bomb at a range of a few inches . Think he meant RPM?