Handbrake shoe problems

[nickolas2120]

I have a 2003 1.8 406. I'm replacing rear pads, disks and handbrake shoes. I have fitted the handbrake shoes and cannot get the disks to move freely. I have the set the toothed cog adjuster at it's shortest length and made the handbrake cable very loose which was slackened off inside the car underneath the handbrake lever. I'm not sure this made any difference though. All the parts are the same size and identical in appearance to the parts I have removed so I am assuming they are correct.

[steve_earwig]

Hi there. How bad are they? I've heard of new pads being a tight fit on new disks but not shoes, still I guess it's just as possible.

[nickolas2120]

When I do the tork screws up, the disk doesn't move! It's wedged firm. I must be doing something wrong but I can't put my finger on it. I have the cable holder and the adjuster the right way round and the handbrake shoes look like they are seated nicely.

[steve_earwig]

Are they the same both sides? I take it that it spins before you do the screws up, perhaps you need to bash the disk about (hide-faced mallet, block of wood, easy does it) and keep it mobile while you're doing the screws up. You sure the shoes are the same width as the old ones?

Failing that, where's Jasper?

[jasper5]

Hello, someone call my name?

Did you take note which way round the shoes fit? It's possible that the shoes are the wrong way round, eg, the shoes have a narrow curve and a wider curve at the edge of the shoe where the adjuster fits and where the shoes mount, if they are wrong the shoe will stick out a bit further than it should. I think the wider edges fit at the adjuster side, can't remember it's a while since I did some.
Make sure the shoes have seated nicely and are not sticking out from the backplate, also make sure the springs are fitted correctly.

If you are convinced the shoes are right way round, check the shoes to see if they have a bit of material hanging over the edge of the shoe, if so file it off, also check that the handbrake lever inside the backplate is connected properly.

[nickolas2120]

Thanks for the posts, all your help is very much appreciated. The shoes are the correct way round. The small slots are on the cable holder and the larger ones on the adjuster. When the tork screws are not tightened, there is still friction although they will turn with a bit of effort. I have tried putting the disk on then moving it, tapping it, putting the handbrake on and off to help them settle into position and I still have the same problem. Can I post pictures for you all to see?

[steve_earwig]

Of course! (Use photobucket if you don't know how)

[nickolas2120]

NEW INFO:
I have tried putting the disk on without the handbrake shoes attached and when I tighten the tork screws the disk still doesn't spin. So the positioning of the handbrake shoes does not appear to be the problem. The disk is stopping on the back plate. I had to hit the old disks quite hard to get them off. Could I have pushed something in? The bearings are free moving and there is no play.

[Mountain]

Have you used pattern disks?
Changed rear disks, pads & handbrake shoes last year and noticed the inner drum surface was not the best quality finish- I remember taking one off again after noticing it was jammed I think I gave the inner drums a light going over with some fine wet and dry.
-
I know I got better quality disks when I did the front ones.

[steve_earwig]

The disk is stopping on the back plate.

I wouldn't have thought you could warp the backplate enough to stop the disk turning, they often touch (especially on rusty ones) but not jam up. Try your old disk and see if it touches.

Word to the wise: paint the back plates while it's in bits - they do rust through and they're silly money to replace.

[DaiRees]

Sounds to me like you need to push the back plate back a bit, can you see where it's touching? Maybe try some engineers blue or something to try and work out the sticking point.

My back plates were distorted when I did the rear brakes but they were rubbing just on the edge, if that's the case I'd try fitting the disc then using a drift and hammer to tap around the edges of the backplate until it clears.

[nickolas2120]

I am happy with the disks I have bought and positive they are the right ones. The old ones do exactly the same thing so it's not the disks at fault. I will try fitting the disk and tapping the back plate out. The old disk took a lot of persuasion to come off so it's possible the backplate was deformed. Any more advice is welcome and thanks for the painting tip Steve.

[jasper5]

I agree with Dai, it looks to me as though they are catching the lip that is sticking out just above the edge of the shoes, fit the discs without the shoes and tap the backplate until the discs are free.

[nickolas2120]

Knocking the backplate back has worked. The backplates are quite rusty and two layers of metal have bowed apart and were putting pressure on the disks. The old disks would seize up quite badly if I didn't use the car for a few days and it had been outside in the rain and it now seems likely the backplates played a part in that fault too. I really appreciate all your help. You have truly saved me hundreds of pounds. Thank you to all who contributed to the solution

[mjb]

The disk is stopping on the back plate.

I wouldn't have thought you could warp the backplate enough to stop the disk turning, they often touch (especially on rusty ones) but not jam up

Mine were very bad. It wasn't warping, it was the rust causing the 1/2" seam between the main backplate and the shoe area to SWELL

I had to spend hours lifting up the seams then hammering/chiselling/scraping/brushing out as much rust as possible before using a punch to seal the seam back up again. Eventually the disc started to spin without too much noise, and copper slip took care of the rest