I went to change my air filter last night, but the screws on the housing have rusted. One would move, I stripped the head on one, and I left the other two well alone.
Getting the screws out is just a question of finding something that will grip and turn them, mole grips or good pliers should do it. Replace them with virtually anything that will fit. When I bought my d8 one of the screws had been replaced by a nut and bolt. Basically anything that clamps the lid on will do and shouldn't affect the airflow. All depends on how fussy you are on keeping the engine bay looking nice. With mine i have too many dents and scratches (all from previous owners I might add) to worry if the original spec screws are holding the lid on the filter housing
Last edited by steve_earwig on Thu Jul 01, 2010 11:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Editted to remove shouting.
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
I use a pair of small pointed nose mole grips, get the screws to move a little then spray WD40 around the screws, let it soak in for a few minutes then they usually undo fairly easy.
Cut a slot in the screw head, soak the screws in WD40 and try a large flat headed screwdriver. Failing that cut the screw heads off!
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
For the cost of a mechanic, you'll probably be best off just buying a new air filter box off ebay. The screws aren't removable so they're not listed as parts you can order
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Well my dad managed to get the buggers out, and back in again!
First, he spent quite some time cleaning the screw heads, using a small flat blade screwdriver to broddle out the x-shape on the screw head. I had soaked with WD40 at my first attempt, so this had already softened the rust.
The main part of the genius, though, was a philips head screwdriver but with the point ground off by about 1/16". The flat end lets it sit right down inside what remains of the screw head. It still required a lot of pressure to keep the driver in the screw head to turn the screw.
The screws went back in with a bit of copper slip on them, so maybe if anyone tries to get in there again -- after another 5 years -- then the poor fools may stand a slightly better chance of getting in first time.
Well done, and thanks for the tip on copperslip. I have just ordered a second hand housing since the garage thoroughly mangled the lid when they changed the clutch - broke one of the tabs and messed up the screws on another - resulting in the lid not fitting properly. Regards, Springnuts
