Hiya guys,
brought myself a Vplate 406hdi(110)
Knocked the guy selling down by quite a bit, as I suspected the clutch was on its way out.
So hopefully going to get a new one sorted soon, however is there anything special that needs to be done in the changing process, that you would not normally do with a cable clutch?
Can anyone enlighten me on how you can adjust the biting point once the new clutch is fitted.
It is currently biting all the way at the top...
Hmmm I believe all 406s have a biting point at the top. Mine was the same when I bought it and took to the garage, but the bloke said it was normal on these. 2.5 years later it's still OK.
My Clutch is a bit worn as you can detect a very slight judder if you don't catch it right but you can overcome this with good clutch control so you can't feel it happen.
I also get like a squeeky chattery sound when the clutch is engaged and released and this is the rubber cushioned dampers hitting the metal stops on the Dual Mass flywheel (common issue on HDi's). I've driven it like that for 7 months and have no plans to change it unless it actually fails.
Ultimately you will be into a new Dual Mass flywheel and a clutch this will be around ?450.00 I think and will reduce the biting point I suspect.
The Dual Mass flywheel was designed as a damper to smoothen out gear changes and reduce clutch 'snatch'.
I'm not sure you can adjust the biting point on these.
(welcome by the way )
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
You can't adjust the bite point on these - if the biting point is abnormally high then it could well be on its last knockings.
If its noisy at idle, or a tad uneven at idelt the dual mass flywheel is dying, which is mondo pricy to fix.
If the clutch is going, don't replace it with OE - the pug ones are hyper pricy and notoriously weak. An LuK at half the price is the better bit of kit.
Cheers for the response so far guys. Idling is fine.
If I start the car, put it in 3rd/4th/5th, and take my foot off the clutch pedal it stalls and doesnt race.
However when I load the engine and floor the gas pedal I do encounter some slipage. This being in the sense that the engine revs up really quickley and then goes back to normal once it bites.
I have also been told by a friend at a garage that in general on the hydraulic clutched C5s/406s they bite high as standard.
I also sometimes experience the judder that welton suffers.
anyone else got any information on any differences when changing the clutch?
meant differences to the changing of clutches in other cars
Bugger just been reading up about changing the Timing belt.
Does anyone else know if you really need an electronic belt tension checking tool. or can I change this belt without one?
In a 405 Haynes manual it says you can do it with a self made one 'as a temporary measure'. But the tension of the belt would need to get checked with an electronic one sooner rather than later anyway..
I did the belt myself on my 406 Tdi 30,000 miles ago and used the 1/3 turn principle I was taught as an apprentice and its been fine. The principle is you select the longest run of the belt and adjust the belt tension so that you can twist it no more than a third of a turn.
)
