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From a previous post you whizzkids have advised I need to change my pump, my fuel gauge now permanently reads full, so that I assume will be the sender unit also connected to this pump. Is this pump easy to change? will I have to bleed air out of the pipes (no idea how to do this), if the job is simple, I'll have a go, if it's complicated I'll pay the garage............I've already got more than enough agro!

dead easy, no need to bleed,

lift the back seat up there is a big rubber bung under there, remove

unplug pump connections

next unscrew the ring around the pump top, i used a big hammer and a blunt chisel as a drift to get it going,

once unscrewed remove pump

stick in new one

repeat in reverse

turn key a few times without starting just to push through the fuel

job jobbed!

i can give more detail if needed but thats about as easy as it is, took me about an hour tops and that was in the cold weather about -5

Disco

Thanks very much Disco....................I think I'm capable of doing that, so you've just saved me about £100

I have posted on here about it at the time and the biggest thrill for me was the saving too, I was quoted something like 285-300 quid by local garage to do the pump swap,

in the end i bought the pump from GSF for about 85 Quid and did it myself, wahoo 200 beer tokens saved and a bucket full of satisfaction that "I fixed it!!"

good luck with it and give us a shout if you need any more info on it.

Disco

I've paid £103 for it (OE manufacturer)...........it didn't come with any seals/gaskets, do I need to get any?

dont think you need any seals from what i can remember, the fuel lines are push fit and the pump just dropped in the tank and a seal was formed with the locking ring, maybe there should be a big o ring for the top, but you will see when you take the old one out, but i dont think so

I've just done the pump.........what an absolute NIGHTMARE, the plastic locking ring needs hitting so hard it breaks off the little reinforcing tabs around it! you then cannot get the ring out of the hole in the floor so you cannot get the old pump out!............I had to use tin snips and make the hole much bigger, what a mess that now is, the pump has a tag on the bottom of it, so it will only fit in one exact place, trying to do the ring back up to the same position is a nightmare.........if there are any tabs still on, by the time you've tried to bang it round tight enough there won't be!

In hindsight: make sure your tank is nearly empty, buy another plastic locking ring and lubricate the thread on it with vaseline ready for doing back up(you might as well get a new 5 inch blue rubber O ring while you're at it), bang the lock ring undone then drop the tank out of the car, prepare for a load of agro or get the chequebook out!

bigknickers wrote:I've just done the pump.........what an absolute NIGHTMARE

I found it a doddle, but then mine was a 90, sorry you had so much trouble, but at least its done now

has it solved the problem? please tell me yes

Ahh, that's the $64,000 question............ the fault was intermittant, as yet it hasn't reoccurred, but it's early days, to be honest, the sensible way to look at it is like this; I want to keep the car for at least 5 years, from the grime all over the old one, I would guess it was the original, so it wouldn't last for another 5 years, therefore I have 'nipped a future problem in the bud'

I took the tank off when I swapped the pump on mine. Jacked up the rear of the car, released the rubber mounts on the exhaust, undo six bolts on the support frames, put a pipe clamp on the filler pipe and the tank slides out the drivers side (just!). I used a picture framing clamp to undo the locking ring. Getting the tank as empty as possible helps.

stealthe

Pump ring is only a problem to do up if you haven't seated the ring properly before tightening it. You also need to make sure the rubber gasket hasn't slipped off from around the lip of the tank and under the flat part of the pump.

A tank spanner makes the job easier but provided you have the ring seated properly you can actually do the ring up to the correct tightness by hand. I'm not saying its easy and you do need fingers like ET's, but you can turn the ring up to the correct tightness and position entirely by hand and you don't end up damaging the ring with a screw driver. Doing the ring up by hand does hurt like hell though but I'm not particularly buff and I managed it.

Getting the bastard undone is another matter however, here you need some kind of drift and a hammer.

Anyway, theres certainly no need to drop the tank, this seems like total madness to me.

Pfusi1.................you've only got 2 choices, drop the tank or cut open the floorpan access hole at least another inch, cos that ring aint gonna come out otherwise, no ring = no pump!

In the 90 the ring can be manipulated out of the access hole if you apply some gentle heat and i dont mean melt it, i did it with a fan heater as it was -5 outside when i did mine and i had no problems what so ever, the 110 may be different though.

is the lockring a different size on the 110? somebody needs to check servicepox to see if the tank reference numbers are the same, if they are then i dont see what all the problem is about, if not then maybe dropping the tank would be easier, all i know for sure is HDI90 piece of pi$$ to do, 110 seems to cause a tad more frustration.

who is gonna check the part numbers then? i know the pumps different but what about the tank and the lockring?

early 110 pumps are smaller ring size than later (more orange colour) pumps. early ones come out, later type i took a chisell to the car then bash back after job done.