Hi,
I have just replaced the EGR Valve, taken the car out for a spin, and it is still not pulling as much as it should in low revs.
and the car is still producing black smoke : -
1) It has been for a full peugeot service
2) Cam Belt and water pump have been changed
3) ECU Checked for Errors - Non found
4) Replaced EGR Valve for a new one - and given the pipe work a good clean
ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS
ANdy
NB; would it be worth getting a turbo gauge to check the turbo is working? if so can some one give me a website address for a cheap on i can fit my self
Black Smoke/performace
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Foghorn Leghorn
- 2.0 Turbo
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 10:30 pm
- Location: Cheshire
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Foghorn Leghorn
- 2.0 Turbo
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 10:30 pm
- Location: Cheshire
Injectors have to checked by a specialist, not something you can do yourself.
The MAF is the air sensor in the intake pipe after the air filter. If this is not working correctly then it can cause the car to run rich/lean. Not sure how to check this, it may be a case of just cleaning it. Might have to wait until someone more knowledgable comes along......waits for Niz, Malachy etc
The oxygen sensor or lambda sensor is in your exhaust. It monitors the gases leaving the engine and again is used to control the fuel/air mixture. So if this is not working correctly it could also cause the engine to run lean/rich. I think these can be cleaned and checked but will have to wait for someone more knowledgable again.
I know that the lambda sensor can become sluggish after time, and have heard people recommend changing them every 30-50k miles.
Fog
The MAF is the air sensor in the intake pipe after the air filter. If this is not working correctly then it can cause the car to run rich/lean. Not sure how to check this, it may be a case of just cleaning it. Might have to wait until someone more knowledgable comes along......waits for Niz, Malachy etc
The oxygen sensor or lambda sensor is in your exhaust. It monitors the gases leaving the engine and again is used to control the fuel/air mixture. So if this is not working correctly it could also cause the engine to run lean/rich. I think these can be cleaned and checked but will have to wait for someone more knowledgable again.
I know that the lambda sensor can become sluggish after time, and have heard people recommend changing them every 30-50k miles.
Fog
RE
Hi,
I am sending the car to a Fuel Injection Services near my house; they will do a full diagnostic on the car for £60. Cheaper than the Pug Dealer and they will actually find out what is wrong as appose to the pug dealer who will just replace random parts until it is fixed
I will let you know how I get on;
Andy
I am sending the car to a Fuel Injection Services near my house; they will do a full diagnostic on the car for £60. Cheaper than the Pug Dealer and they will actually find out what is wrong as appose to the pug dealer who will just replace random parts until it is fixed
I will let you know how I get on;
Andy
i take it that it's an HDi???
Have the problems been present since the cambelt change? I don't believe in coincidences, so if that's when it started it's probaly not fitted right. It's not beyond the realms of possibility that they've not reconnected something properly when they've finnished up, so check all connectors on that side of the engine may are pushed properly home.
MAF is the next place to check. Try cleaning the elements carefully with a cotton bud soaked in solvent. They can get dirty, especially if a oiled air filter, such as a K & N, is fitted.
I'm sure it's possible to electrically check the MAF with a multimeter, so it might be worth investing in a Haynes manual (or similar) before lashing out more dosh to the dealers. A fault code read should identify any potential MAF problem, and might also highlight the problem if it lies elsewhere.
The MAF sounds a favourite to me, but you might also consider posting the problem on the forums at http://www.psooc.com, although it goes without saying they're not nearly as good as this illustrious site!
Have the problems been present since the cambelt change? I don't believe in coincidences, so if that's when it started it's probaly not fitted right. It's not beyond the realms of possibility that they've not reconnected something properly when they've finnished up, so check all connectors on that side of the engine may are pushed properly home.
MAF is the next place to check. Try cleaning the elements carefully with a cotton bud soaked in solvent. They can get dirty, especially if a oiled air filter, such as a K & N, is fitted.
I'm sure it's possible to electrically check the MAF with a multimeter, so it might be worth investing in a Haynes manual (or similar) before lashing out more dosh to the dealers. A fault code read should identify any potential MAF problem, and might also highlight the problem if it lies elsewhere.
The MAF sounds a favourite to me, but you might also consider posting the problem on the forums at http://www.psooc.com, although it goes without saying they're not nearly as good as this illustrious site!
The problem was there before the cam belt was changed, as for the air filter, it is the standard one that came with the car.
Yes My car is the new shape 2.0 110bhp (v reg 1999)
I will have a look at the MAF, how do I get at it?
When I removed the old EGR Valve, I noticed the valve completely covered, so i replaced it with a new one and cleaned all the pipes.
Any other ideas, maybe the waste gate on the turbo is sticking or the vacuum valves are not switching or creating a vacuum, I think I will send it to the injection people above as I have still not got all my performance back (although the EGR valve made a tiny difference)
They will do a full electronic and mechanical test of the engine for £60, not to bad really
Andy
Yes My car is the new shape 2.0 110bhp (v reg 1999)
I will have a look at the MAF, how do I get at it?
When I removed the old EGR Valve, I noticed the valve completely covered, so i replaced it with a new one and cleaned all the pipes.
Any other ideas, maybe the waste gate on the turbo is sticking or the vacuum valves are not switching or creating a vacuum, I think I will send it to the injection people above as I have still not got all my performance back (although the EGR valve made a tiny difference)
They will do a full electronic and mechanical test of the engine for £60, not to bad really
Andy