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I bought myself a 110 hdi for £250 its got 168k on the clock. So before i break it i suppose it would make more sense to try and get it going, a good hdi should be round £700 eh?
Anyhow at this money somethings wrong it starts, sometimes reluctantly, runs for a while and cuts out, if its revved it cuts out sooner, if its not revved it lasts a few minuites. it doesnt go over 3000 rpm. The fuel gague says empty although the tanks full. It also shows ANTIPOLLUTION FAULT.
anyhow i attached the pp2000 and it said fuel pressure regulator valve, and when trying to test it the noise from under the back seat happened. So exactly what needs fixed, the cars got a new fuel pump, filters and injectors fitted by the previous owner who gave up on it.
If i could fix it i would, but if i cant id be equally as happy as i get some handy parts and scrap values are good.

What noise from under the back seat? The fuel pressure regulator is that gizmo on top of the fuel pump.

you know when you jump into the car and turn the key to the heat setting, well in my good car it makes a noise, it also makes the same noise when the pp2000 is doing the test.
But i dont know, you say its atop the fuel pump, wheres the fuel pump

So there is no noise from under the back seat? Strange case of the in tank lift pump

Did you look in the glove box?

there is a noise under the back seat, same as my good car.
whats in the glovebox. Remember this is a right hand drive.

So this noise happening from under the back seat isn't anything unusual then.

Ah, it's RHD - why didn't you say before? The fuel pump is on the front of the engine:
Not the right drawing on the CPC but this'll do:

The pressure regulator is the round bit bolted on the back of the pump (the bit on the top is the 3rd piston solenoid)

isnt most of us driving rhd cars.
this is looking very complicated, i was hoping for a typically french loose wire.

Since you've got PP2000, you can tell if the fuel pressure is correct - about 250 Bar idling IIRC, more if you rev it. (You're REALY spoiled having this AND a healthy car to compare with).

If the fuel pressure isn't changing I guess it'll give this fault, but I read somewhere that fuel pressure sensors fial occasionally - if you unplug it, the ecu should use a default get-you-home value of 340 Bar, (I think).

It wouldn't hurt to try unplugging the Orange? 2-pin connector a'top the fuel pump so that it runs the 3rd piston at idle - some folk run around like this so it won't do any harm and it might point you in the right direction....kinda

If it runs then stops then it's running out of fuel in my eyes - which should point to the in tank fuel pump.

The code: Fuel Pressure Regulator might just mean it's low on fuel generally as above.

ive been thinking.
the cars blue, its got good doors with no parking dings like mine has, the benefit of a car that has come from the country eh? smells like shite, but has good bodywork although its covered in shite also.
If i try to fix the car up i might get it going but could end up spending £100 on a car, that has no MOT, rusty sills, iffy tyres, and a filthy interior. It could cost £300 to put it in a reasonably clean condition, that i could sell to a human being. Whats a 2000 glx hdi 110 with about 170k on the clock worth?

because what im more swayed to doing is pulling the doors off, the wings, rear bumper, bootlid, and centre console then putting it up in the attic. then the rest can go on ebay. Theres a temperature sensor which could sell, good stalks pre com2000, an mfd (ebays a bit saturated with them however) but one thing i could sell is the radio, the thieves on ebay all want about £30+ for what is essentially not the worlds best radio, then they need vin decoded. I could sell a radio vin decoded for £20. So parts could be sold that bit cheaper than what breakers want.
Then scrap the rest, even with the bits taken off, the car still would wheigh a tonne, and my local scrap metal yard (not a breakers) is offering £190 a tonne.

FarmerPug wrote:ive been thinking.
the cars blue, its got good doors with no parking dings like mine has, the benefit of a car that has come from the country eh? smells like shite, but has good bodywork although its covered in shite also.
If i try to fix the car up i might get it going but could end up spending £100 on a car, that has no MOT, rusty sills, iffy tyres, and a filthy interior. It could cost £300 to put it in a reasonably clean condition, that i could sell to a human being. Whats a 2000 glx hdi 110 with about 170k on the clock worth?

because what im more swayed to doing is pulling the doors off, the wings, rear bumper, bootlid, and centre console then putting it up in the attic. then the rest can go on ebay. Theres a temperature sensor which could sell, good stalks pre com2000, an mfd (ebays a bit saturated with them however) but one thing i could sell is the radio, the thieves on ebay all want about £30+ for what is essentially not the worlds best radio, then they need vin decoded. I could sell a radio vin decoded for £20. So parts could be sold that bit cheaper than what breakers want.
Then scrap the rest, even with the bits taken off, the car still would wheigh a tonne, and my local scrap metal yard (not a breakers) is offering £190 a tonne.

if ita a china blue d9 farmer p im after quite a few bits so i'd happily buy some from you

It would be good to work out exactly what is wrong with it, mainly because as it stands you can't sell any part of the fuel system (with a clear conscience anyway), nor the engine management ecu or the BSI (by association). So anyway, obviously the engine is working in "downgraded mode" because it won't rev over 3k and I was just wondering if there are any circumstances where the engine ecu would kill the engine. Looking at everyone's favourite BOSCH HDI EDC 15C2 pdf on page 106 it says:

F - STOPPING THE ENGINE
The system stops the engine immediately when a fault is present on one of the
following components:
· Eprom in the injection ECU
· engine speed sensor
· capacitor N°1 voltage
· capacitor N°2 voltage
· high pressure fuel monitoring

So, is it the sensor (£111) or the regulator (£333)?

a bit of an expense i dont want.
Its definitely getting broke, i want a set of good body panels so i can when i feel like it take of the passenger doors because they have parking dings.

Is the car fitted with a fuel computer?

If so, can I have the wiring and second plug from it
Trace as much wiring back as you possibly can if possible and if poss let me know where it runs to?

Not fitted to D8 diesels, but to D9 HDi's so can't see any reason why I can't get mine working

its got a trip computer yes, same functions as mine.