Oil temp

[Welly]

Of course if you had NO oil temp gauge then you wouldn't give this a moments thought. I wouldn't worry about the oil temp but I would like to sort the STOP lamp. The high oil temp will end up raising the water temp although the water temp gauge won't show this (they are deliberately slow so as not to frighten the driver) so I suspect the water temp climbs too under load.

I would change the thermostat for a genuine replacement and fit a new radiator, has the water pump ever been changed? it might be caked in all kinds of crap, although you should change Cambelt if you change the pump. A system flush and high quality coolant/conditioners should be carried out.

As others have said you might also have a sensor/wiring issue so would be worth changing sensor if cheap enough and also check the box of tricks which operates the cooling fan - many owners have non-working fans but don't realise at the HDi's very rarely reach high enough temps to bring the fan on.

[gumby6371]

The oil cooler consists of a wide passage (oooer matron) for the oil with small veins for the coolant so unlikely to be blocked on the oil side of things unless its particularly manky.
Any blockage on the coolant side and I would have thought the coolant temps would be climbing into the red.

If you do decide to change it any of the XUD's in the breakers will donate a useable cooler, they can be different thicknesses for non 406's but the locating bits are the same. Make sure you keep the central oil threaded pipe the filter screws on to as they are different lengths. I used a 306 cooler and it fitted and worked perfectly well.

Straight forward job to change but on my 1.9 (and I suspect all variants) fitting the replacement cooler was a 'done by feel' job as it was impossible to see without removing the front end of the car.
You'll be dumping the coolant and the oil so make sure you have new stuff to go back in.

And one more thing, with the car on ramps I couldn't reach the cooler from the top which made it the dirtiest job I have ever done on a car as you'll be under the car with cruddy oil oozing down the sump on to your head as you work so invest in decent latex gloves, eye protection and wear something you're happy to bin afterwards.

[uoapsdb]

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[uoapsdb]

Thanks for your replies. Sorry not replied recently - had some unfortunate family business. But it meant I had to do a number of long runs. I checked the oil and water levels beforehand. The water temp never goes high. Its the oil temp that is the problem.

The car is fine on my 35 mile run to work between 50 & 60. But when I go 70 (2500 revs) for say 10 miles plus the oil temp goes up to the mark one below the red mark. It goes higher than that if the car is loaded, or if i go at a higher speed when in Europe. And the dreaded STOP starts flashing.

Think I will ask local garage to check / replace oil cooler. They don't rip me off. Worth a try ?

[steve_earwig]

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Does that mean you love us?

[rwb]

I still like Rolebama's suggestion to check that the oil (and water) temperature really are what the clocks say they are.

And is there any way you can get PeugeotPlanet on it?
Peugeot forums have a map of PP2000 owners
There may be (there are usually ) fault codes logged which haven't caused the EML to come on, and these could provide useful clues.

The only approach I can think of is: why might the engine actually be getting abnormally hot? And why (if we believe what the gauges are telling us) is the heat is in the oil but not the water?

[grasmere59]

I would say it's a sensor issue as when my oil temp gets very high when towing the caravan under load in hilly conditions the water temp gauge is not far behind the oil temp in rising which stands to reason as the oil cooler then becomes a heat exchanger and as your water temp never rises I'd say it's an oil temp sensor problem.

[dirtydirtydiesel]

Resurrecting this question as I never got to the bottom of the problem and really want to take the car to France. I still have the problem of the oil temp guage (left hand one) going v high when I carry a heavy load or drive at high speed for a lengthy time say 70 for half an hour.

Any suggestions welcome - flush / replace oil cooler ? could the oil pump be weak ? fit an extra oil cooler ?

One thing that someone mentioned above was to do with the injectors - they have always leaked a little bit of oil but not enough to merit working on them.

I believe the car had been unused for a period - say a year when I boought it about 5 years ago.

Any advice welcome please

Holly thread resurection!
As doggy will tell you all, I have purchased a caravan , yes i know but it's the cheepest way of doing hoildays with the kids
Well my first trip Skeggy v flat, with a 110 hdi std map & egr & dosser still plumbed up 110-120 deg oil temp at 60mph on the flat.
Fast forward six weeks & off to cornwall with my 140ish bhp with egr delete & doser removal , thanks Doggy!
Well fully laden on the A30 120-130
Then the run home A30 uphill Forever! 140 oiltemp & stop light flashing !!!!!
My car is v well looked after, 89k fully synth oil all her life. flushed at every oil change, gen filter with total qurtaz 9000.
So have bought a Mocal oil cooler as anything over 120 for sustained periods will FxxK your motor .
I will post pic's & post back later !!!
DDD.

[Sagwala]

I had 130+ temps in the hot weather 35c doing about 80 no load, but no stoplight. I just thought this to be fairly normal given the extreme temperatures outside.

I think the oil temp gauge was a bad move on Peugeots part really, gives unnecessary cause for concern maybe?

Although a stoplight is always to give cause for concern, that would be different.

They should have included a gauge for exhaust temperatures! That'd see us all running for cover

[rwb]

They should have included a gauge for exhaust temperatures! That'd see us all running for cover

It would for us silly buggers with a DPF. Over 400 degrees when it's doing a regen

There've been a few reports of overheating over on peugeotforums recently where the only explanation seems to be: you're towing up hill on a hot day with the air con running.


What I don't get here is why the oil is getting hot and not the water. Could there be a problem transferring heat into the water?

[PeterN]

I would have thought that if the oil temperature really is high and the cooler working correctly that the water temperature would be high also as that's where the oil dumps its heat, so its either got to be a faulty sensor or the oil cooler is not working for some reason. It might be worth feeling the coolant hoses into the cooler and see if they are both at near enough the same temperature.

I would suspect though that it is a sensor fault because for the oil to reach that temperature the engine/coolant temperature would have to be nearly the same.

Peter

[Doggy]

As doggy will tell you all, I have purchased a caravan , yes i know but it's the cheepest way of doing hoildays with the kids

I do not wish to be associated, however obliquely, with your purchase of a rolling roadblock.

In my experience the oil temperature mirrors how hard the engine is working, unlike the coolant, (whose temperature is regulated by the thermostat and fan controls), the amount of heat the oil cooler can dissipate is pretty much constant with no inherent reserve capacity. Climb and alp with enthusiasm and you'll see 130/140 degrees, going down the other side it'll be 80 or 90.

[Welly]

The oil gets hot under load due to 'shear' loading and high fuel burning, the heat is transferred to the water system which is then slow to react (thermostat, rad, piping etc..) so the temporary high temps are only recorded by the oil temp sensor whereas the water sensor is so deliberately dim-witted the peak has been and gone before it can react.

[Doggy]

Perhaps, but take it from me if you blast along a stretch of motorway for say an hour, you will get a sustained increase in oil temperature that reaches it's peak after about 10/15 minutes, but no discernable change in water temperature.

[dirtydirtydiesel]

I know Doggy & I agree, That's just how mine is & my Citroen ZX 2.0 16v was the same ,
But after pulling the (van) up some off those hill's on the A30 & watching the oil temp rise & rise only to finally have the stop light flash at me
but only for a couple of seconds I was nearly at the top .
So I have consulted a few knowlegable people on this matter & the consensus is anything over 110 degrees for sustained periods is bad for my engine & oil
Well with the (van) hooked up it's min 110 so I've purchased a mocol 13 row oil cooler & fitting kit with a oilstat to insure that the oil get's up to the important 90 degrees
to burn off all the contaminats.
Got a bargin £56 new & unused off ebay from a chap that bought it then sold his car, £240 from Thinkautomotive for same kit