Noisy engine

Davva2004 · Post by **Davva2004** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:11 pm

Is yours the 1.9 or the 2.1? According to the Haynes manual, the XUD9 1.9 engine has mechanical cam followers with shims, the XUD11 2.1 engine has hydraulic followers. If it's a 1.9, changing the oil won't make a jot of difference to tappet noise you'll need to have them reshimmed. Clearances are 0.15mm +/- 0.08mm inlet, 0.30mm +/- 0.08mm exhaust. Haynes say it's a three spanner difficulty job to change them, which means you'll only lose half a pint of blood and five square inches of skin off your hands.

Captain Jack · Post by **Captain Jack** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:27 pm

She has a 2.0L 110bhp HDI.. not the older XUD variant - that's mine!

Post by **Welly** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:24 am

My engine rattles, but only under load, not when you rev it up stationary.

I am convinced it is not a mechanical rattle but more of a Diesel Combustion noise (common rail clattery noise).

miniman · Post by **miniman** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:50 am

Supa, If you find the location of the amp, could you let me know please?

Also, my lug broke off the filler cap as well. I removed the cap, and then used a soldering iron to melt the lug back on. Dont use glue, as it will break again in the near future.
Use the iron like a mig welder, and run round the seams with it, melting the plastic back and forth. Mine has been fixed for months now, cost nowt, and has never failed again.

Thanks,
Mini

miniman · Post by **miniman** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:52 am

Thats a type of epoxy as well. If you do decide to epoxy it, drill holes into both sides of the join for the glue to go into and get a decent grip. Dont squeeze all the glue out from between the parts either. That is a common mistake!
Let me ken how yer gettin on doll.

Good luck

mbell666 · Post by **mbell666** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 12:05 pm

The JBL amp is in the boot, right hand side behide the boot lining. The same place as CD canher but on the other side. It is mounted in a steel frame, with plenty of room for stuff. Its just a bugger having to mess round with the carpet to get to it.

Captain Jack · Post by **Captain Jack** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:40 pm

I was close enough then

miniman · Post by **miniman** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:13 pm

Nice one mate!!
Im gonna dive into it tonight and see if I can sort out the right hand front speaker on my one. It crackles, but it aint the speaker. It seems like a dodgy output tranny, or duff connection.
Will report my findings.

Post by **steve_earwig** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:25 pm

I had that on my old Pug, speaker seemed fine, I was about to upgrade the stereo anyway so bought new speakers, fitted them, problem vanished...

Bit off-topic there, sorry. Hi there!

Back on topic, when I test drove my 2.0 HDI it sounded sweet as anything, however, after I changed oil it sounds like a tank. I wonder what the dealer put in the oil... I was trawling on here in case there was any known problems. Ho hum.

Common rail clatter? More like duff tappet/square cam lobe! I need the cam belt changing anyways so I'll quiz Pug... oh yes sir, you need a new engine

Post by **steve_earwig** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:21 pm

Me again. I just found this:

So, your normally smooth-running Hdi sounds like it's suffering an injector tick or tappet rattle. If it sounds VERY rattly STOP DRIVING IT NOW!!
It's more than likely the front crankshaft pulley. Citroen/Peugeot in thier infinite wisdom have come up with a pulley with an in-built cusioning system that breaks down. You may find traces of 'iron filings' or swarf. If so, this is the last call for Destruction City, seriously folks the pulley can split and if it goes whilst your cruising you can wave bye-bye to a few valves and maybe a cylinder head. If your up for a cam belt change get your garage to inspect the pulley very closely. Many establishments recommend the pulley with the belt change. It will add about £90 to the bill, but 'what price peace of mind?'

From here.

Oh Sheep!!!!!!!!!!

mbell666 · Post by **mbell666** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:09 pm

they have to take the crank pulley off when they do the cam belt. Just get a new one fitted when they do this (shouldn't cost any extra labour).

Belive pug do a upgrade/fixed version (has three slots not two). Pricey that from other places but should be ok.

Engine probably had 15/40 in it. Put it in mine once, engine sounded lot smoother but didn't pull half aswell. Went straight back to 10/40 next change.

Post by **steve_earwig** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:18 pm

Well, I guess I should have trawled about on here a bit more, seems like it's a common issue. The trouble is I can't see any actual swarf in there and there does seem to be a lot of clatter from the top end with the 710 cap off. Best to get the belt sorted asap & I reckon they can check pulley/tappets/cam while they're at it.

adam03031980 · Post by **adam03031980** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:22 pm

Mine used to be the same one garage said it was the injectors then another said it was the cam shaft then another guaranteed me it was the crankshaft pulley so i changed the bottom pulley and low and behold it stopped so it was the pulley after all making a tapping rattly noise after all you only notice it when you accelerate

Post by **steve_earwig** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:06 pm

Hmm, noisy at anything above idle all the time, lessens on overrun and seems to change pitch and quieten at about 4k, which is why I thought it was a leaky hydraulic tappet jacking up.

So, driving it home (very slowly) tonight (it's that or a 2 hour walk), my other half will ring up Pug tomorrow (I no speako da lingo) and I'll see.

Well, I didn't want any heating oil this winter anyway.

adam03031980 · Post by **adam03031980** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:30 pm

the guy who diagnosed mine was at a pug dealer i just went there and the service guy was kind enough to aks a technician to pop out and have a quick listen though i was a bit cheeky and didnt get the work done there haha