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I'hav got this problem, that when i want to reprise/overcome other cars, if i change to a lower gear like 4 or 3th , it goes well to 3000rpm but after that it looks like it has no more " juice " ... This is a bit frustrating, but i think it could be to the lack of changing the filters, tuesday, i'll change all the filters, and change oil, he will check this problem too, but i want your opinion to match he's diagnosis.

Thank you !

HDi owners tell me that the turbo only really boosts up to 3000 RPM. I've never driven one, so I couldn't say for sure.

Hi mate,
change the fuel filter, Mine did the same thing and it was holding back,
*change the filter and turn the ign on and off twice and let it prime once its primed itself start it up it might hunt for a few secounds and itl clear itself,
once its warmed up give it a bootfull to Redline and let it clear its lungs.

highlander wrote:HDi owners tell me that the turbo only really boosts up to 3000 RPM. I've never driven one, so I couldn't say for sure.

lozz wrote:Hi mate,
change the fuel filter, Mine did the same thing and it was holding back,
*change the filter and turn the ign on and off twice and let it prime once its primed itself start it up it might hunt for a few secounds and itl clear itself,
once its warmed up give it a bootfull to Redline and let it clear its lungs.

Thank you both, as i stated in my first post, i'll be doing filters replacement on tuesday, do i really need to do that trick of the ign ? Sorry for my poor/lack of good english, but what do you mean by " let it prime " ?

sorry ishouid of made it a bit more understandable,

ign on and off, to allow the Filter housing to fill up with Diesel,
Let it prime as in filling it self,

they can Hunt /runlumpy for a few secounds after its filled up again but dont worry it will sort its self out,

if you just turn the car over straight away after changing the filter you couid end up with a flat battery
hence why i mentioned ign/on .off a couple of times to allow the filter bowl to fill up,

hope thats a bit more understandable

lozz wrote:sorry ishouid of made it a bit more understandable,

ign on and off, to allow the Filter housing to fill up with Diesel,
Let it prime as in filling it self,

they can Hunt /runlumpy for a few secounds after its filled up again but dont worry it will sort its self out,

if you just turn the car over straight away after changing the filter you couid end up with a flat battery
hence why i mentioned ign/on .off a couple of times to allow the filter bowl to fill up,

hope thats a bit more understandable

Thank you lozz, i could understand it better now . i'll keep that memorized , it will be my mechanic who will do the replacement etc, but i'll inform him , so there is no mistakes, cuz i want my babe running smoothly

Thank you, i'll keep you posted

Well, after the service, he had changed the MAF, and one problem went away, but this actual problem persists.

My MAF was reading well but in the end was not working good, and the behave of the car is totally different now, i feel like having a Ferrari , jeez i was driving it with the MAF not working properly for a year, when i press the acel pedal the car now responds more quickly then before, before died a lot .. now it goes very well ...

BUT

The 3000 rpm issue is still there, i talked to him and we went into a drive test, after he saw it, he said, it could be the turbo catalyst, is this accurate ? He said if it is from that he can remove the components inside of it and then resolder it, but would this mean i will get more CO2 to the atmosphere ? Because on MOT they check this, he said not actually on diesels but in petrol it would need a new one ...

Please some help here, thank you

Diesels dont Require a cat,
take it off a Smash out all the inside of it, no need to have it welded afterwards it will all unbolt,
it will be abit more Gruntier in sound but will have alot more power,
other alternative is having cat cut off and a pipe welded on, ithink smashing out the inside of the cat is just as good as having it cut off and welded ,

yeah, he said he would have to cut it, remove the inside, then resolder it.
Here in MOT, they check underneath the car, so by doing this will make them think that the cat is in place and working...

Normal 2.0 HDI 110's dont really produce anything after passing 3000 rpm
unless they have been re-mapped .

puggy wrote:Normal 2.0 HDI 110's dont really produce anything after passing 3000 rpm
unless they have been re-mapped .

My friend has the same car as me, estate 2.0 hdi 110 same year, and he's doesn't do this, according to him .. maybe i'll try to drive he's and see myself ... but at my garage he says that it's not normal, and i think it's not normal too .. if it is a turbo they should do it's job and give a lot more power to the car when it needs or required by the driver ... because sometimes i just want to speed a little and that limiter sucks ...

When you start driving and you make the car go as fast as it can in each
gear what speed in each gear does the car reach before you change gear.
A 110 turbo will not make the car leap forward but more of a steady
increase in speed .

let's imagine that you are driving and appears in front of you a long road with a big degree up, in this situation when you need to pull over the turbo more further then he can gets in 2nd or 3rd gear, it will stop kicking after the 3000rpm , you think this is good ? i think it isn't, it drop's the stability of the car ... the car makes a totally different sound ... as if it is pulling more then what it can handles ...

thank you for your replys and patience so far

Remap is the Way me thinks,

also ive seen somepeople driving diesels like there Fragile,
diesels need to be driven diferntly than petrols,

all i can say is Rev the Damn thing you wont break it

I agree , it also sounds like his clutch could be slipping .....