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Thought I'd give the dogmobile a treat last weekend and replace the timing belt a tad early. Armed myself with a Gates timing belt kit, aux drive belt & aux belt tensioner, 2 x 1/2 drive extension bars and set to with a will to win......

I read through the cursed book of lies, (which recommends completely removing the exhaust to avoid straining the flexi-section, among other gems). Decided Doggy knows best, and from that point things deteriorated in a predictable manner.

To cut a long story short, I took a chance on not locking the crankshaft in position, (just marked it carefully instead), but did lock the cam pulley. I think it's vanishingly unlikely it could have moved by a whole tooth, but now I'm wishing I'd taken the extra time....

Got it finished and it started up and sounded spot on, but when driving, I do seem to have a bit of hesitation / turbo lag that wasn't there before. I suspect I will eventually find a loose vacuum pipe or some similar cause, but now the germ of doubt has arisen, I'm thinking to re-check the timing, just to be sure.

My question is this - can I remove just the upper section of the timing belt cover, rotate the engine to the camshaft pulley lines up with the hole, insert the 8 mm screw to lock it, then somehow verify the crank timing mark agrees with it?

If so, which bits do I need to take off, (if any), to access the crank timing marks / locking pin position?

I gather the DW12 is different from an HDi 90, (where you push the pin through the block into the flywheel fom over the top of the starter). HBoL implies it's the same as a 110 HDi. Can anyone confirm? (or just describe the arrangement on a 110 /136)?

Thanks in anticipation of the usual high standard of technical support for which our forum is justly renowned.

(& yes, Doggy will take the 'other' comments on the chin and no doubt wish he'd kept his big mouth shut).

The crankshaft locking hole is located above or near the Starter motor Solenoid on the 2.0 hdi
so im told,
ive been looking for it on mine but havent spotted it yet,
iwill be taking starter motor out to find it iguess,

I did my Xsara HDi 90 that way - you couldn't see it, but I did it by 'feel' from underneath, reaching over the starter, then very gently proving it was 'locked' by attempting to turn the crank.

HBoL talks of 'unbolting the closure plate from the bottom of the clutch housing'.

(but it also helpfully suggests turning the tensioner with a 10mm square rod / 10mm spanner - both my old & new tesioners had holes for1/4" square keys).

Ah! I seem to have found a snippet here

Seems the locking pin is held in place by a spring when timing an HDi with DMF?

dogslife wrote:Ah! I seem to have found a snippet here

Seems the locking pin is held in place by a spring when timing an HDi with DMF?

According to my info the locking pin for the crank fits in a hole in the block to the right of where the driveshaft enters the gearbox.

Looking at my diagram you may just be able to get to the tensioner and cam pulley with the top cover off.

Thanks, jasper.

I'll give it a go.

MMMMMM now let me think ," if it aint broke dont fix it springs to mind "

" Dont send a boy to do a man's job "

" If there was some hair around the hole you would soon find it "

We now know why people use the term " grease Monkey "

on a serious note hope you get it sorted mate

....You can almost set your watch by puggy, can't you?

Thank you for those words of encouragement - gotta get it sorted so I can watch you crash-landing at Gaydon.

You Bitch !! still suffering from the last crash landing .

jasper5 wrote:According to my info the locking pin for the crank fits in a hole in the block to the right of where the driveshaft enters the gearbox.

Spot on as per usual, jasper!
It was a doddle - you can even see a bit of the flywheel where the clutch cover plate doesn't quite meet up with the block, let's you spot the timing 'hole' before it lines up with the hole through the block. (I didn't do this the 1st time cos I was dumb enough to listen to that reprobate Haynes who advocates removing the entire exhaust, turbo air pipes, clutch cover plate. All completely unnecessary).

Looking at my diagram you may just be able to get to the tensioner and cam pulley with the top cover off.

Right again - the top cover will just wiggle out, leaving clear access to camshaft pulley & tensioner.

Timing was a tad out, with the crankshaft locking pin in, you couldn't quite insert an 8mm screw through the camshaft pulley into the locking hole in the head, (but you could get a 6mm pin in, so it was pretty close). Slackened the ajustable camshaft pulley bolts and rotated the cam slightly to correct the timing and it's MUCH better.

Dogmobile now has cold wet nose & waggy tail again.

Jasper to the rescue again !! dont know what we would do without him ,
especially when his advice has helped a bumbling grease monkey restore
full power

puggy wrote:Jasper to the rescue again !! dont know what we would do without him

Yes, jasper saves the day once again.

especially when his advice has helped a bumbling grease monkey restore full power

makes a change from getting grounded stunt pilots aloft again?

Oooooo you cut deep doggy !! aborted take off's are a fact of life

Hello team,

Interesting reading about slight mistiming. Would something as small as this be enough to put cam and crank synchronisation out on my 110 Hdi do you think? Or would it need to be a whole tooth out? Think I'll be in the market to check timing but don't have a Book of Lies (it's a '53 110 HDI Exec estate and I don't think the BoL covers up to that but I bet the info. is probably the same).

Having read these posts, I think the answer to this question is yes... but can I check the timing and tenioner etc. by just removing top bits of cam covers and finding correct timing holes to use?

And do I need bolts / pins to do the locking? How many? Are they 8mm diameter? Smooth or is threaded OK? How long are they and is there any interesting shaping of pin/bolt required?

If this is the reason for my lack of cruise control I'll be amazed! Also, would this being out cause the car to smoke under hard acceleration as it still does that afte Wynn's EGR3 and fuel cleaner.

Thanks in advance for any advice folks.

Jonty

EDIT - Just looked at the link to the timing pins tool kit -I'll look more carefully as to what's needed, but any quick ref hints and tips on what to cobble together welcomed.