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Evening folks, just curious at this stage but what exactly is involved in DPF removal?
My good lady had the dreaded anti-polution fault pop up today but a quick motorway blast cleared it.

Is it just a case of turn it off in the BSI and removing the internals from the DPF?
Basically she wants a bit more go and get the MPG's up to somewhere near the manufacturers figures.

The other advantage is never having to worry about regens if it's not there

She still has a few months warranty on it but the guy at the garage seemed quite happy to do it when I sounded him out about it. I guess it's less for him to fix if it goes wrong in the warranty period.

Cheers

Gareth

gumby6371 wrote:Evening folks, just curious at this stage but what exactly is involved in DPF removal?
My good lady had the dreaded anti-polution fault pop up today but a quick motorway blast cleared it.

Is it just a case of turn it off in the BSI and removing the internals from the DPF?

Nearly. Turning it off in the BSI will suppress the warning messages, but won't stop the additive and engine ecu's conspiring to drive you mad....
You need to turn off the DPF in the engine ecu, (after which it ignores the additive system completely). For this you need an ecu flash programmer, (Galletto 1260 or KWP2000) to read the ecufile, Ecusafe or similar to disable the FAP, Galletto to download the modified file.

Alternatively, send me the file & I'll do it for you, I've done a few 307's now.

Regarding the AWA process, ('andy wiv 'ammer), looky here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12487

Basically she wants a bit more go and get the MPG's up to somewhere near the manufacturers figures.

The other advantage is never having to worry about regens if it's not there

I'll be surprised if you see any real improvement in performance or economy compared with a clean DPF. It certainly won't do any harm and it stands to reason that the regen process wastes fuel, but TBH it didn't real change much on mine.

Absolutely agree it's worth doing for peace of mind and must save you money in the long run.

If you want any more info, just ask.

Be careful, Ecusafe not always works with Bosch EDC16 cars. You have better have a (~100 miles) software try first before hardware removing the FAP.

EDIT:
I found my car a bit more lively without the FAP, faster revving. But only a tiny bit. The most important thing was a noticeable decrease in turbo lag. The lag's still there and stll too much, but less than before. I guess the pressure drop caused by the FAP in the exhaust, which can be as high as 0.9 bar, is a big impedance for the turbo.

However, if you are after more power and better MPG, removing the FAP will do something but not very much. You have to remove the FAP and get the car properly remapped.

Thanks gents,
So do you need to turn it off in the BSI and modify the engine ECU file or just the engine ECU?

It will be done at some stage as I don't think it's fully regenerating the DPF as she gets slightly less to the gallon than my 1.9 around town. If I can get the garage to do it and they fry the ECU that's their problem not mine

Being the 1.6 110 BHP model you really have to watch your revs for gear changes as the turbo lag can be awful so any improvement there would be brilliant. Again this could just be a partially blocked DPF from incomplete regens.

Having said that if you get the up shifts right it's a fairly nippy car, incredibly deceptive tho. You feel like you're crawling until you look where the needle is pointing and it's touching 90, caught me out a few times when I've driven it.

BTW Doggy do you have an engine map for a 1.6 110 non FAP 307 or do you do them for each car?

Cheers for your help as always

gumby6371 wrote:Thanks gents,
So do you need to turn it off in the BSI and modify the engine ECU file or just the engine ECU?

It will be done at some stage as I don't think it's fully regenerating the DPF as she gets slightly less to the gallon than my 1.9 around town. If I can get the garage to do it and they fry the ECU that's their problem not mine

Being the 1.6 110 BHP model you really have to watch your revs for gear changes as the turbo lag can be awful so any improvement there would be brilliant. Again this could just be a partially blocked DPF from incomplete regens.

Having said that if you get the up shifts right it's a fairly nippy car, incredibly deceptive tho. You feel like you're crawling until you look where the needle is pointing and it's touching 90, caught me out a few times when I've driven it.

BTW Doggy do you have an engine map for a 1.6 110 non FAP 307 or do you do them for each car?

Cheers for your help as always

You can check the state of your filter using pp2000. You have to both turn it off in the ECU and in the BSI for the peace of mind.
It's always better to defap your own map and not use another pre-made map to defap, as it can lock your ECU, especially with more modern ECUs.