406oc.co.uk

Hi All and a happy new year to everyone!!!!

Been messing about with my 406 again as someone said it could be an electrical fault so been checking more connections.

Can anyone one identify what the wire in the pic does please? It has a white 2 pin multiplug on it and runs under the alternator to what looks like the inside of the bottom pulley on the drive belt. I am getting a closed circit to this?? Also, when i check the
third pin on the fuel rail pressure sensor (loom side) i am getting 9.87v, is it anything to do with this closed circuit or is
that a normal reading?
I have blown the fuel lines today and all seem clear. i have 2 lp pumps so i have tested the output (fluid) on both and I get pretty much the
same on both pumps.....also a pic on how much it is filling the filter bowl on one turn of the ignition.

Last question, well for now......can anyone point me in the right direction as to what is the best software to get to run full diagnostics on the car and where
to get it please???

Thanks guys....

Neil...

Sorry, think the 9.87v was off the middle pin???

The wires are for the air-con clutch, with the air-con turned off the pulley will spin freely, when it's on it will spin the compressor.

Thanks mate. So I guess its nothing to do with why I can't get the at to start then

Sorry if I have posted this in the wrong section...just noticed the one for electrical

Just get a pp2000 clone. It'll do wonders, it is absolutely the best money you can spend on a PSA car.
I got it from obd2tap.com, pretty cheap, takes long to get here tho.

just bee reading have you checked the cam sensor as teas don't put out codes all the time even when faulty

Thanks guys.

I was in touch with someone today over lexia. Offers a 7 day return if not happy and a full support package. All for £110.
Have not looked at the cam sensor to be honest as I have been concentrating on fuel issues, which according to the guy I was speaking to today might not be the case as universal code readers just throw a generic code up, where as planet is specific. Only thing is, he said my car might be too old to get full functions to work with planet, hence the 7 day return policy.

Might try and source a brand new 2nd hand cam sensor tomorrow

I think we have checked the cam sensor readings though and they checked out, well according to what autodata said they should be???

womble171 wrote:Thanks guys.

I was in touch with someone today over lexia. Offers a 7 day return if not happy and a full support package. All for £110.

You can get it for half the price or less. TBH it's a pretty straightforward software and you won't need much support, not more than the support you can get on this forum for free in fact!

Thanks.
Does that include the leads and the software? If so, could you point me in the right direction please?

I got mine from:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product ... 71020.html

Bargain

Just had a quick look at that link you posted, seems too good to be true at $80??
How long did you have to wait for delivery?

Thanks.

I thought so too, but I paid on a credit card and took my chances.

Took about 7 days from purchasing to arrival if I remember correctly.

Came with all the cables and two CDs including PP2000, DiagBox and Lexia3. Have used it on about 5 cars now, all successfully

Thanks mate, will snaffle the wife's credit card and give it a go. Are you ok to give a shout out for advice if I get stuck when I come to use it?

There are loads of people on here with PP2000 and the kit/software is always the same, so you won't be short of people able to help you out!

As well as plugging in a code reader you may like to try the following, I pulled it off a website some time ago but cannot remember which.

Slow starting and bad hot starting could be low fuel-rail pressure. If the rail pressure sensor does not report 120 bar in the rail, the injectors are not fired.

Although the use of the extensive live-data available is preferrable, a multi-meter will suffice. Insert a pin or similar into the back of the centre terminal of the rail sensor's plug. [Easiest done plug removed, then refit.]

At key-on, the voltage should be 0.5 volts; it needs to be above 0.833 volts to exceed 120 bar and should be a stable 1.29 volts at idle.


It should reach 120 bar in 1.5 revolutions of the engine. You need an injector leak-off rate check and a primary pressure check as a next step.


If you are not getting sufficient rail pressure it could be that you have a leaky injector or the (high) pump pressure regulator is not working or not getting a voltage to operate.