406oc.co.uk

Well as you have guessed, i managed to get a planet diagnostic on the car today. Information is as follows:
Can anyone shed further info on this please?
Does it mean the pressure regulator is knackered or is it the short cicuit causing the fault?
I have just bought a 2nd hand loom off ebay but it is off a 90bhp 406, but mine is a 110. Got told it should be the same tthough???

The actual measured fuel pressure was flickering between 47 and 55

I'm confused. The fuel pressure reading seems miles too high for lift pump delivery pressure, (which should be about 1 Bar, but I don't think it's monitored anyway) and far too low to be fuel rail pressure.

If it's the latter, the pressure reading is grossly incorrect. You should expect to see around 250-300 Bar at idle, rising to 1350 Bar at full chat. I don't think it would be possible to start the engine, much less get it to 3500 rpm with < 100 Bar.

(If you are able to monitor the live data while driving, planet will display both the requested and actual fuel pressures).

The error code indicates a problem with the pressure regulator, but these messages can be misleading. Did you try reseting it to see if it returned?

Thanks for your reply.

The car has been off the road for a couple of months now due to total non starting, i have posted on here under a couple of different posts.
I had someone with planet come out today and scan the car to see if he could identify problem more specifically as my generic code reader was
only throwing PO230 code up.
I cant get any live data with the car running as I cant get her to run unfortunately....I have swapped the pressure regulator for another one. The ohm
readings on the regulator check out, but when you test the multiplug they are way off as were a few other readings....hence the ordering of an alternative loom.

Sorry, I didn't connect this with your earlier posts.
Interesting that it has started briefly after changing the pressure sensor. Can you reproduce this? Do you have you have to take it out, or just unplug it?

Have you tried with it unplugged? (read somewhere it will simulate idling pressure to limp home like this).

Not been able to reproduce this
Not tried it unplugged either. I am not sure if it was changing the regulator or messing about with all the wires going to the BSI and other connections that got it to start???
I have 2 pressure regulators now and I have swapped them over several times (could do it with my eyes closed now) cant see both regulators broke but ya never know???
I am going to take the loom completely put today as I won the other one on eBay so I at least know that's on it's way.
I read somewhere else that someone had a similar problem with a 206 that wouldn't start and it turned out to be a bad earth from the gearbox......the only one I havent checked

there's a bit of info hear about testing for the code

http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/hdi-p ... ntrol.html

http://www.tdocuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4 ... &view=next

Thanks' mate.

I have been waiting for loom to come so not been on. Loom came today but it was the wrong one

I had a quick look at them links you posted, think the difference with mine though is I can't get it to start at all
Beginning to wonder if it's worth the hassle now, especially after reading them posts???
Will keep trying for a bit longer, gonna have a good look at my loom to see if I can find any breaks

A corroded wire within the loom is more than possible as I have had one. It was a power feed to the ECU and a few other components leading to an immobiliser fault. Open up the loom carefully and look for a small blue copper stain, a sure sign the insulation has a crack and water has got to the copper, this combined with voltage will corrode very quickly. If it is not obvious, try pulling each wire individually as a corroded one will break easily. If you have access to a meter then it will be worth doing some basic checks as I suspect you have a voltage problem to either your pressure transducer or or pump solenoid, if you can have the use of one then I will give you some pointers.
Ian

I'd be worried that if I took the loom apart it'd never fit right again. You could clock the wires through individually - clip one test wire from your meter on a component terminal and, with a probe, find where it goes on the ecu connector, then check all the other terminals for any shorts. Once you've done a few you should have an idea of what sort of resistance to expect, any corroded wires will have a higher resistance than the rest.

What was wrong with the new loom, wrong ecu connectors?

Thanks Steve. It's not the ecu connector that's wrong, it's the blue circular one that connects to the car by the battery, it's a different design than the one I have. Mine is like a blue spring clip that releases, the new one is a twist one like the black one?

sum thing to check is injector leak back as one with to high a leak back you not alow the presser to build up and give a fault code of sum kind

It sounds like the connector is the early one and yours is the later one - if the rest of the loom is ok and suits the car does it matter?

Not sure if it would matter Steve but how would I get it to fit?

Thanks madmadmax, how would I check leak off? Would the car need to be running??

Oh sorry, I've misunderstood, I thought you meant the battery connector itself I'm not sure what that is (and I can't pop out to my car to look as it's 10km away at my house )

yep just time and multiply what you leak off test time is normally 1min so you can go for 10sec on the starter motor and multiply the amount in the bottles by 60? and it should give a good semi-accurate amount

but i may be wrong

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/eng ... est-20757/