406oc.co.uk

Hi I'm new

recently upgraded from modding 306's and being a boy-racer, to getting married having 2 kids and owning a 406 est....

replaced bottom pulley today after 4,000 of infuriating ratling!
now wont start
it fires on first crank EVERY time then just turns and turns untill battery dies :\

smoke coming from back of engine (manifolds region) when fires.

I have not touched anything at all apart from the pulley and belt and the timingbelt casing to check that belt, upon checking timing belt it is a little on the slack side but nothing too major.

only other thing that could be usefull is that it was very low on fuel at the time, however its been cranked that many times ive flattened 2 betteries twice each so cannot possibly be any air left in the fuel system.

any help at all would be apreciated

have you checked the alternator is charging?

if the belt is slack then it may have jumped a tooth which would stop it starting

As mentioned by m/m

Check the timing,
If it has jumped a tooth id change the timing belt a.s.a.p .



BTW, welcome to the forum

had 4 people including 2 mechanics on the phone and under the bonnet.

this i whats happened,

when ive moved the ecu box, ive either broke a wire or the ecu has given up. ODBII reader not getting power at plugin.

what happens with these engines is (tested by myself) the injectors fire off their own power for the first crank, then the ecu takes over once fireing has begun.
dont beleive me? unplug your ecu and turn the key.... thats how i came across this.

so just got to get an ecu and test it with a fault reader to assertain wether its the ecu or wiring (easier than testin each individual wire).

if its ecu then the new ecu is programable with the help of a freind, all i would need then is ODB software for laptop as the guy has got PP2000 an the leads but not odb.

if anybody knows anyone who can help with sourcing odb software that would be great guys, thanks for hehelp so far but by the time i had chance to get back on here and th post had been authorised i'd allready got to the bottom of it.

cheers fellas

philhdi wrote:had 4 people including 2 mechanics on the phone and under the bonnet.

this i whats happened,

when ive moved the ecu box, ive either broke a wire or the ecu has given up. ODBII reader not getting power at plugin.

what happens with these engines is (tested by myself) the injectors fire off their own power for the first crank, then the ecu takes over once fireing has begun.
dont beleive me? unplug your ecu and turn the key.... thats how i came across this.

so just got to get an ecu and test it with a fault reader to assertain wether its the ecu or wiring (easier than testin each individual wire).

if its ecu then the new ecu is programable with the help of a freind, all i would need then is ODB software for laptop as the guy has got PP2000 an the leads but not odb.

if anybody knows anyone who can help with sourcing odb software that would be great guys, thanks for hehelp so far but by the time i had chance to get back on here and th post had been authorised i'd allready got to the bottom of it.

cheers fellas

If you're asking for a member with PP2000 to help you, I think it'd be important to add your location.

Good luck

there is a fuse in the diag link so check that

madmadmax wrote:there is a fuse in the diag link so check that

fuse no. 36 under bonnet on pass side, its intact.

and my location as pointed out by sonia is Middlesbrough if more detailed location is required i'll pm.

thanks guys (and girls)

update:

baught an ecu (numbers matched) on ebay £55 on its way to me in next 2 days.

worked out cheaper to buy an ecu just to find out if its wiring or not than going to peugoet for a diagnosis.

if its ecu i will know when i plug OBD reader in, if it sees it then my ecu is faulty, if it doesnt then its a loom fault.

wish me luck

the bad news is that is will not tell you anything apart from that the ecu and bsi are not matched, i would get a copy of sedre or the right wire diagrams and a multimeter and start testing it the right way rather than spending money on things that are going to potentially get you nowhere.

The bend in the loom into the ecu is prone to problems, according to my source*

*Head mechanic at local dealers.

Probably the place to start.

madmadmax wrote:the bad news is that is will not tell you anything apart from that the ecu and bsi are not matched, i would get a copy of sedre or the right wire diagrams and a multimeter and start testing it the right way rather than spending money on things that are going to potentially get you nowhere.

maybe true but i can get a refund on ecu - postage or i can sell it on so no money wasted, cheaper than 90 quid just for diagnosis, eco-repair!

as for the bend in the loom..... I really hope not, there are 40+ wires in that cable!

Trust me I know; I've checked them all once:)

as much of a pain in the arse as i think its gonna be?

and whats the best way to do it?

philhdi wrote:as much of a pain in the arse as i think its gonna be?

and whats the best way to do it?

Remove lead off battery.
Unplug ECU.
Peel/trim back protective tape/covering off the loom ..peacefully thus avoiding breaking cutting into any wires.
Then check each wires for breaks or chaffing..

Smoke coming from the back of the engine is surley a clue that the timing is out as it seems to be firing and blowing exhaust fumes out through the inlet manifold. That said you may also have a leaky exhaust flexi!!!
Armchair diagnostics is often so difficult.
For anyone doing a quick ecu swop for diagnostics then really you need the BSI and chip out of the key. It just so happens that I have a set but it is from an earlier HDi that was only semi multiplexed, a sort of D8.5. what year is yours?
Ian