406oc.co.uk

Hi, I've got 2 2001 2l Hdi 90 406 Estate. Clutch bearing has started to make some horrendous squealing noises so guess it's time to replace the clutch.
Has anyone got a How-to for a clutch replacement on the Hdi 90.

Last time I had the clutch done it cost £400 so was going to give it a go myself this time

Also any Idea how long it takes as a guesstimate

Hi not done one on the 90 but just had a look at autodata and it states nearly 6 hours in a garage with a ramp and decent tools .From experience i would bank on allowing a full weekend if doing it on the drive.

Matt

paulb2004uk wrote:Hi, I've got 2 2001 2l Hdi 90 406 Estate. Clutch bearing has started to make some horrendous squealing noises so guess it's time to replace the clutch.
Has anyone got a How-to for a clutch replacement on the Hdi 90.

Last time I had the clutch done it cost £400 so was going to give it a go myself this time

Also any Idea how long it takes as a guesstimate

There is a basic how-to on the clutch change in the knowledge base (not the V6 one, but some of the items apply so read up on both) which was meant to be non-specific to any particular engine, however, most of what I wrote plus some of the tips added still apply.

To update it to include specific items for the 90 HDi engine......

Make sure you have the radio code.

The driveshaft nut is definitely 35mm.

Take out the battery and the air filter housing.

Watch out for the crank sensor on the gearbox casing / engine block and don't forget to refit it!!

When you take out the gearbox mounting undo the bolts holding the long bolt and remove it.

Undo the bottom ball joint nuts (21mm) and hit the side of the bottom suspension arm to free the ball joint from the taper (leave the nut on a couple of threads in case you hit the thread to avoid damage) then lever the bottom suspension arm down to release the ball joint completely.

Undo the top drop link nut first....now is a good time to replace the drop links if they are worn.

To take out the driver's driveshaft you need to undo 2x11mm nuts holding the centre bearing in place.

When you try to remove the gearbox undo the subframe bolts an inch or so and lever the subframe down....mark the position of the subframe with paint marks or tippex before you move it.....you do NOT need to remove the subframe, just lower it.

You will need an 8mm square socket to undo the gearbox oil drain plug.

Grease the bearing shaft before fitting the bearing on the shaft...clean the shaft first....the bearing will clip onto the release fork.

You will need 1.9 litres of gearbox oil 75w80 grade, fill it through the plastic screw/nut on the breather on top of the gearbox.

You should really replace the driveshaft oil seals on the gearbox, use genuine ones, they cost less than non genuine and actually fit!!

Using proper tools and a ramp the clutch should take less than 5 hours for a pro.

A diy person should allow as much time as possible, a weekend is probably a good suggestion, but 6 to 8 hours is doable with some knowledge.

Observe safety precautions at all times and properly support the car on axle stands.

Any questions, just ask.

Good luck if you attempt the job.

Are they a pull clutch like on the late 405's?

piglet wrote:Are they a pull clutch like on the late 405's?

No! It's a normal push type....the slave cylinder should be bolted to the front of the engine/gearbox.

jasper5 wrote:Make sure you have the radio code.

D9, so won't need a code

The driveshaft nut is definitely 35mm.

My Mrs' 2000 hdi90 has a 34mm nut (35mm socket still worked on it...)

If you don't have access to heavy-duty tools, I *strongly* recommend getting yourself one of these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... act-wrench - it'll make light work of back-breakers like wheel nuts, driveshaft nuts, and crankshaft pulley bolts

To take out the driver's driveshaft you need to undo 2x11mm nuts holding the centre bearing in place.

The nuts are on the inside of the bottom engine mount, which you should really consider replacing while you're at it, given how much of a pain it is. A wide-opening vice will make light work of pushing the new mount into the bracket.

Using proper tools and a ramp the clutch should take less than 5 hours for a pro.

"should" Some 406s are more amenable to repair than others, however if this is its 2nd clutch, it should be straightforward.

Observe safety precautions at all times and properly support the car on axle stands.

Remember geearboxes are f**king heavy, and can hurt quite a bit if you need to bench-press them to stop them crushing your skull...

Any questions, just ask.

Have a look at the V6 clutch change howto as well. There's a lot in common between the jobs, like those stupid goddamn 11mm driveshaft bearing nuts. Talking of which, I advise you to get hold of an 11mm ratchet spanner for the job - it makes it a lot less painful. If I need to do it again, I'll be buying a flexible-head ratchet spanner to see if it makes it better still. If I have to pay £10 for a tool to undo two silly little nuts, then so be it; I find them infuriating and physically quite painful to do as you can only turn them a few degrees at a time...

Good luck!

Just a useful point about those silly little 11mm nuts....I've found a work around for this....take out the bolts holding the lower engine mounting bracket to the engine and remove the driveshaft complete with the bracket...then you can leave the little nuts where they were and ignore them.

Is that the bracket holding the lower engine mount bush?
What are they like to change?

jasper5 wrote:Just a useful point about those silly little 11mm nuts....I've found a work around for this....take out the bolts holding the lower engine mounting bracket to the engine and remove the driveshaft complete with the bracket...then you can leave the little nuts where they were and ignore them.

Dammit I wish I knew that was an option on the hdi... If you recall, we both discovered it's not on the V6

piglet wrote:Is that the bracket holding the lower engine mount bush?
What are they like to change?

Yes. The 11mm nuts are a right bitch, but if you can work around by removing the bracket as Jasper says, then it'd be a LOT easier. If you just need to change the mount, it's an arse of a job (pulling a bloody driveshaft out just to change a little bit of rubber...), but you've got to pull the driveshaft off anyway to do the clutch change so it's not too much extra work and well worth it if you're engine's supported by a 10+ year old bit of rubber which is almost certainly rotted and brittle

The bush itself can be a pain because it's a bit of rubber inside a steel band which you need to cut out of, then press into the bracket. Not too bad at all if you've got a vice with a nice wide opening, otherwise you're either taking it to someone with a press or experiencing some pain rigging up something to compress it in. I'd buy a nice wide-opening vice if you haven't got one - I've found my Machine Mart one a very useful purchase... One of those "how did I live without it?" things

The mount bush sounds like a no-brainer then, will it fit into a bog standard 4" bench vice?

Is it possible to guess at clutch life before it starts slipping? Mine is very near the top of the pedal, thecars on 75K.

I suspect 4" aint gonna be enough (matron), I have a spare bush ready for when mine goes and I think it's 2" already, plus the housing...

All the HDi clutches bite high, they're hydraulic. You might get some warning, you might not. I suspect 75k means the clutch is about half worn...

4 inches might be enough

Thanks for all the advice, now for a quiet dry weekend to do it.

Piglet - This is my second clutch, 1st was replaced at 71, now on 138k and needs to be done again, neither time has been a result
of a slipping clutch. Last time was due to a failed release bearing, this time it sounds and feels like the release bearing is total shot.
Seams to be a weak point, don't use the cal as a load lugger and don't tow with it.

Perhap it doesn't like spending it's life in London traffic, current average speed on trippy is 14mph.