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Looked on Service Box and unable to find a part number



Does anyone know if the 2.0 HDi flexi pipes are any good for the 2.2 HDi?

Would like peoples opinions on having a straight through exhaust or not... So added a poll...
By straight through I mean, physically remove both the DPF and Cat.........
Please let me know your opinions

Also seen this, not a bad price I don't think

You don't need a 2.2 HDi specific one, just any generic flexi that has the same diameter will be workable. Coupe club reckons 2.5" (don't trust this necessarily), but here's one for £19 delivered: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-x-8-STAIN ... 0537969224

jonsowman wrote:You don't need a 2.2 HDi specific one, just any generic flexi that has the same diameter will be workable. Coupe club reckons 2.5" (don't trust this necessarily), but here's one for £19 delivered: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5-x-8-STAIN ... 0537969224

I smashed the DPF and cat out of mine, the estate is the same. The cat doesn't give much power increase (I'm told) and the exhaust smells slightly different. So definitely get rid of the DPF innards, but the cat is up to you.

Noticeable increase in mid-rpm power after deFAP and de-cat, even on the standard 136bhp map Enjoyed the empty B-road blast home immensely!

Thanks for that.. £19 isn't bad at all Huge thanks for that, will size it up etc.
If and when it's de-fap and de-cat, to do the delete and re-map, how much of a bhp increase is that, bare in mind it's supposedly 136bhp from factory?
Ta

Mine's running the standard map which is 136bhp.

However, there is a 180bhp map floating around that someone on here will give you if you want it. This requires de-FAP, but does not require de-cat or de-EGR.

There are 200+bhp maps but these require EGR removal. I'm not saying this isn't a good idea, but there have been a few DW12 head gasket horror stories recently, perhaps due to people pushing them too far. The 180bhp map is pretty tried and tested though.

The higher bhp maps will really show up any weaknesses in your induction/boost and vacuum systems, so make sure the car's running well on the standard map before upping the power.

By the way when you de-FAP, I highly recommend removing the additive tank from the car as well. Just chop the hoses, plug them with bolts, and unplug the electrical connector. Be careful with the additive, it's horrible stuff which you really don't want on your skin or in your eye!

jonsowman wrote:Mine's running the standard map which is 136bhp, and I've heard just removing the DPF and CAT adds around 5bhp due to a freer flowing exhaust.

However, there is a 180bhp map floating around that someone on here will give you if you want it. This requires de-FAP, but does not require de-cat or de-EGR.

By the way when you de-FAP, I highly recommend removing the additive tank from the car as well. Just chop the hoses, plug them with bolts, and unplug the electrical connector. Be careful with the additive, it's horrible stuff which you really don't want on your skin or in your eye!

Thanks for your advice!
So the DPF is 100% going...
180bhp, Oh yes please
Where abouts is the additive tank? How much additive is usually in there? Any idea what mm the bolts will need to be?
Is the electrical connection near it?

The additive tank is bolted underneath the fuel tank on the passenger side, #15 in the below. It's held on by a retaining bracket which unbolts on one side and then unclips from the other. It holds about 5 litres when full, but could be completely empty. Mine had just been topped up by the (unknowing) previous owners. Costs about £30/litre that stuff!

I can't remember the bolt diameter I used to plug them, M4 or M5 perhaps? The electrical connector is on the back of the tank, it just unclips and I tied it out of the way above the fuel tank with a couple of cable ties.

Don't worry, it'll all be very obvious once you're under the car.

jonsowman wrote:The additive tank is bolted underneath the fuel tank on the passenger side, #15 in the below. It's held on by a retaining bracket which unbolts on one side and then unclips from the other. It holds about 5 litres when full, but could be completely empty. Mine had just been topped up by the (unknowing) previous owners. Costs about £30/litre that stuff!

I can't remember the bolt diameter I used to plug them, M4 or M5 perhaps? The electrical connector is on the back of the tank, it just unclips and I tied it out of the way above the fuel tank with a couple of cable ties.

Don't worry, it'll all be very obvious once you're under the car.

Sounds so easy when you put it like that.. thanks
Picture also helped

Flexi hose is 2.25" diameter and about 20cm long.

The files are called 180 and 200 but I don't believe that is the power they make, hopefully the rolling road day will give an insight as I have the 200 file on my coupe and someone else has the 180 file.

Removing egr will increase combustion temprature, however it probably won't be anything near as hot as the dpf regeneration process.

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oldskoolskool wrote:Flexi hose is 2.25" diameter and about 20cm long.

The files are called 180 and 200 but I don't believe that is the power they make, hopefully the rolling road day will give an insight as I have the 200 file on my coupe and someone else has the 180 file.

Removing egr will increase combustion temprature, however it probably won't be anything near as hot as the dpf regeneration process.

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Are you going to the rolling road day in Essex? I sure would be interested in finding out the results of both maps.. I wonder if Doggy has put his on a rolling road since the map?

Yeah i'm going, providing I get my reverse back by then.

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oldskoolskool wrote:Yeah i'm going, providing I get my reverse back by then.

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Reverse gear?
Fingers crossed

So it sounds like plan A should be to smash out the DPF and repair the rest of the exhaust.

Isn't it normal to DPF-delete the ECU before the physical delete?

Out of curiosity, how often does regen happen? Since each tankful of fuel gets dosed, it must be expecting to do it once every 500 miles or so?

Varies, based on the difference in pressure measured before and after fap (dpf). As well as certain running conditions, (this is why modern diesels aren't designed for continual short trips as it will not regenerate. And perminanty clog prematurely).

You can force a regeneration with pp2000.

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rwb wrote:Isn't it normal to DPF-delete the ECU before the physical delete?

Usually wisest to make sure the softaware works first, BUT it then becomes essential to remove the FAP before it blocks, (which it must do if not regenerated).
If you're able to defap the ORIGINAL ecu file, (if necessary). you can safely do it either way round.

Out of curiosity, how often does regen happen? Since each tankful of fuel gets dosed, it must be expecting to do it once every 500 miles or so?

No simple answer to that one. 500 miles is pretty much a maximum, the additive ecu will determine when based on differential pressure, distance since last regen and distance since last antipollution service. Even with no faults, this will inevitable get below 100 miles in time.

Which is why you need to get this.....

the FAP out of there!

FWIW, I decided to keep mine looking standard in the eyes of any MOT station. The cat is still there ( but empty ) and the FAP is still there ( but empty ) and as Jon says, there is a tiny tank in front of the rear passenger wheel where the pigs wee-wee is kept, well mine is still there ( but, of course, empty..)

There are no tell tale signs my car has been tampered with from underneath, apart from new bolts between FAP and CAT and maybe some changes in the engine bay but I guess a non-Peugeot garage wouldn't notice...

No harm done and peace of mind and peace of wallet.