406oc.co.uk

I know what they are, and what they mean (P0115.P0120.P0190.P0230.P0235.P0243.) but where do i start to look for the faults, dont say under the bonnet, that`s what a dealer said.

just a hint, or a translation will do,,

i'm surprised jameslxdt hasnt offered any advice on this one

i am here now, somehow i must have missed this post
give me a bit to work out what the codes mean

right as i explained before:

P0115
engine coolant temperature circuit malfunction

P0120
Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

P0190
fuel rail pressure sensor circuit malfunction

P0230
fuel pump primary circuit malfunction

P0235
turbocharger boost sensor A circuit malfunction

P0243
turbocharger wastegate solenoid A malfunction

P0190 and P0230 are whats stopping the engine from running, you need to check if your lift pump is working, lift up the back seat and listen to the pump when someone turns the ignition on, if you get i nice buzz sound the then pump is running, it will stop after a few seconds, if it doesnt, check for voltage at the plug on the pump, there will be 4 wires (probably) 2 thin ones for the gauge sender and 2 fatter wires for the pump circuit, check for 12v +/- 2v, if you are not getting this then you have an ecu fault or a break in the loom, if you have the voltage but the pump doesnt run then the lift pump is your problem, if the pump runs then you could have either a faulty rail pressure sensor (highly unlikely) or a failed high pressure pump, the reason you are getting a rail pressure sensor fault is because the high pressure pump isnt supplying fuel to the rail so it cant register pressure, hence why the ecu thinks its faulty
the coolant sensor fault is more often than not a glitch in the ecu and isnt a fault, unless the car recentley overheated?
if the fault comes back when you have cancelled it and started the car, you need to check for 5v between the 2 pins for the coolant sensor plug, if this is ok, then you need to check the coolant sensor resistance, ive no idea what the readings should be at any given temperature so i cant help you any further, a basic test can be done though, remove the sensor and put it in a pan of water, keeping the pins above the water, measure the resistance across the 2 pins and slowly heat the pan, the resistance should decrease slowly as the water warms up, if not then the sensor is faulty, and the other 3 fault codes, i would think you have a faulty throttle pedal sensor, common on the 110's and the turbo solenoid faults maybe a product of the pedal sensor fault, but could also be a faulty turbo solenoid valve, but you cant check untill you get the car running again

If I can add to this with the experience I had......

I found I had a lot of codes but they're not allways relevant and will dissapear once the actual problem is solved.

The throttle switch is common, and fairly cheap (about 50.00).

If it's your lift pump that's faulty then these aren't too bad either, hopefully that's all it will be.

Good luck.

THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO, ALL THIS STARTED WHEN I BOUGHT ANOTHER HDI PUMP OFF E.BAY.
HE SAID IT WORKED BUT THERE IOS NO PRESSURE, JUST THE SAME AS THE FLOW FROM THE IN.TANK PUMP.
ALSO DO YOU KNOW OF ANY PLACES I COULD SEND MY OLD PUMP TO BE RECONDITIONED, THAT WAY I WILL KNOW FOR CERTAIN IT WILL WORK