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Well, I've had the 180 map put on the car.
In fourth gear around 2k revs I am getting either turbo surge (I think) or clutch slip (other half thinks)

My question is this, surely, if a clutch was slipping it would slip in all gears and at lower revs?

It's a bit of a flat ish spot, only really noticeable in fourth gear, around 2k revs and when absolutely putting the boot in!

Is this normal with the map or the clutch, or even turbo? Any ideas?

Try setting off in 3rd gear

Does it stall ?

When you boot it in 4th gear change up to 5th and boot it, if the clutch is slipping it will slip then....the revs will rise but the car won't pick up.

To get an indication of what clutch slip actually feels like drive uphill and dip the clutch slowly whilst still accelerating and feel the revs rise.

I noticed clutch slip a few times, travelling at a constant speed about 2000rpm in 5th gear, I then floored it, engine revs went up to about 2500 rpm but the car didn't speed up as it should have.

normally when a clutch starts to slip it will be in the higher gears, if you put the in 4th and boot it and the revs rise but the car doesn't accelerate it's slipping, around the 2000rpm the will be a wedge or torque so if it's gping to slip it will do it around there.

If it is clutch slip, should it only slip for about 2 seconds and even then it only occasionally happens?

Jasper, book a long week off as holiday

Can't really add anything that's been said. With a "generic map" on mine, it slipped when booting it... It can do it for a few seconds or if the clutch is realllly knackered then it won't stop till you take your foot off the pedal. You can eek years out of a slipping clutch if you're careful but 180k miles on a single clutch is good going!

You can always put the original map back on, with DPF off. Will definitely prolong the life of it....

+1 , sorry Sonia but 180k is very good out of a clutch & adding 30-40% more power & torque I fear is just to much for you old clutch.
The classic test of a clutch in these is to put it in 4th or 5th at 1500 rpm's & just floor it if it try's to stall the clutch is ok but if the rev's starts to rise is fooked .
ps. not that it'll make you feel any better but if it was on 100+k I'd be thinking the clutch could be on it's last leg's.
But then that's realy down to how it's been driven in the past

Sonia406 wrote:If it is clutch slip, should it only slip for about 2 seconds and even then it only occasionally happens?

Jasper, book a long week off as holiday

If it is the clutch you can extend the life of it by lifting off the revs as soon as you feel the slip.

You'll need a few pennies first, Sonia, remember, yours has the dreaded DMF.

From your description I'm not sure it is the clutch slipping.

The one on my old 2.2 started to slip when accelerating hard in 4th or 5th around 2000/2500 rpm, particularly when hot and fully loaded. Happened 3 times on my holiday to Scotland in May 2012, but I didnt get any repeat problems when it was just me in the car. I have since learned that a few owners have been able to run their cars like this for many thousands of miles without it getting appreciably worse unless you rag it.

As mine was going to take us to the S of France etc in September, I got the clutch and DMF replaced straight away - if I hadn't been taking it abroad I would have waited. Be aware the cheapest you're going to find a clutch + DMF is going to be at least £280, probably a bit more. There's also diff oil seals, gearbox oil and of course labour unless you're really adventurous.

My advice - wait till you're absolutely sure you have to do it and you're comfortable Pugster's otherwise a fit as a butcher's dog.

PS. another tell tale sign of clutch slip - if you floor it in a high gear at 2000/2200 and the revs rise without a matching increase in mph, (as the others have said), look carefully as you lift off - if the clutch is slipping the revs will instantly drop as you lift your foot, with no change in mph.

My standard 110 used to slip at 2000 rpm under load, and laden, but only when the transmission was good and hot (after a couple of hours driving) I learnt to work with the problem and eventually sold the car on with the same issue, it never felt like a major issue.

Sounds exactly like mine, though I also had an extremely high bite and lots of dmf judder when moving away in first to go with it.

I don't know about running it for many miles when you start to feel this, mine was just touching the rivets when it was taken out. If yours is that low and your DMF is currently ok you may be increasing your bill...

Cash cost of replacement was £350 from a friendly garage, DMF £220 and clutch kit £80 so it aint cheap and as doggy says make sure the new car is worth the expense of putting it in... Maybe you should run it on standard map for a bit to prolong the life long enough to iron out the cars other gremlins?

i would think it wouldn't last long if it is slipping not on a 2.2 hdi with a 180 map on it, it's the low down torque that kills the clutch.

As soon as mine slipped a couple of times I purchased an new kit incluging flywheel, however it was atleast 6months before I changed it as it wasn't a problem.

This is the only job I've paid someone to do as on the coupe it is supposed to be a subframe off job and Peugeot quote it as a 9.5 hours work, although most people do it by dropping just one side of it. (Not a one person laying on the side of the road task).

All the proper quotes I got were for labour only at around £450, in the end a couple of chaps done it on the side for £250, but they were bodgit and co. As I found out when I checked under my bonnet, wiring routed incorrectly clutch hose rubbing on gear selectors intercooler hose rubbing on rad, hard to select 2&4 followed shortly by broken gear select (no 2,4 or reverse)

There are some coupe owners who have used the standard clutch set up with the 180 file for a couple of years with no issue, but the cars started of lower milage, when I had mine done I swapped for a solid flywheel, 6 paddle clutch and updated pressure plate.

Not as smooth as standard set up but should last year's even with the extra torque. (even if I decide to eventually go for the editecu 210 file)