Dumb question, but how do I go about changing the spark plugs on my turbo? OK, not on the turbo but you know what I mean...
Obviously I use a spark plug socket blah blah blah, but the bit I'm wondering about is how do I take the plugs out without all the crud in the recessed areas the plugs live ending up in the cylinders?
Also what's the story with the HT leads? They're just bog standard shielded stranded single-core cables rated at 1-2kVA with hefty rubber/silicone boots at the end ain't they? Unless they're damaged and corroded they should wear out about as much as the mains cable on your TV... and even magically making one out of a superconductor at an astronomical cost would improve performance by a tiny fraction of a percentage. So why does everywhere make them out to be as important to renew as your spark plugs or oil? And how on earth can one set of cables "perform" better than another? The only possible answer I can think of to that last one would be in RF and EM shielding, but you wouldn't ever have anything RF under the bonnet due to it being a Faraday cage and you'd need to stick some electronics much more high-tech than an ECU right next to a HT lead in order to see any effect of EM radiation... Besides you can't really do much better shielding than the simple cross-weave found in the aerial coax plugged into the back of a telly... Hmm performance spark plugs I can understand, but not HT leads. </rant>
Dunno mate, I have been known to jet wash an engine before a serivce, partly because I didn't want muck getting inside the engine and partly because I didn't want any more muck than absolutely necessary getting all over me
Playtime_Fontayne wrote:"Dai Rees Supplier of Fine Automobilia. Established 2007"
You evidently have lots of faith in your FRENCH ELECTRICAL connectors... ;)
You beat me to it - just the thought gives me shivers - did that to me old citroen BX once and spent an entire afternoon trying to dry the now full of water recessed plug holes out with kitchen roll without taking the plugs out 'cos they were right buggers to get to - the french , u gotta luv 'em
is it a browny gunk?
this is usually caused by water getting down the spark plug recess then shorting.
Think most leads are just gimicks to buy their product (like bosch super 4's spark plugs)
Im no auto electrictian but I think the thicker leads reduce the inconsistancies of the current.
I would use compressed air to blow out the plug holes, if you can.
Funny thing with the leads, on the FTO the standard leads were really thin gauge and me knowing best I bought some magnacore 8mm ones (the standard ones were more like 6mm)
The FTO specialist garage said the Magnacore's were a load of shyte and you needed the thin gauge wires to prevent voltage losses within the leads.
I would now only buy standard leads, they can deteriorate over the years because of the heat, and usally fail at the ends where you would see some of the spark arcing across to the block.
Just get standard plugs aswell, sorry 'candles'
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
Nah it's just general engine compartment crud. I got a set of Bosch sparkys from Halfrauds for about £15. Whatever they are, they're bound to be better than what I've got in at the moment. I'm guessing at a 3" spark gap given they've done almost 80k miles!
Get the standard bosch sparkys or NGK newish type(titanium? or maybe I am just thinking of my new razor?). The bosch super 4's encourage preignition.
Cant see how youd get engine crud down there. I know they are different cars, but on my saxo, and BX this isnt a problem. I only got brown stuff showing when I had some water getting into them.
Standard Leads are fine. I have 8mm luminition leads on the saxo because I could get them the same price as standard leads.
Always makes me laugh when you read in the mags about the chavs getting extra BHP from upgrading plugs and leads.
munfred wrote:Always makes me laugh when you read in the mags about the chavs getting extra BHP from upgrading plugs and leads.
Me m8 pete as got da Corsa 1 leeter innit an he runz iz tank ov petril wiv da Nawz in it. E sed u can get nawz in da 2 leeter bokkles from amerika an evryfin.
E had da race wiv a scoobie an win it, da scoobie guy wuz well gutted, next pete iz fittin sum turbos and a strate 4 enjin wiv a type R geer box lol 1111111eleventy11111 lol
(sorry, not in tomorrow)
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
>>The FTO specialist garage said the Magnacore's were a load of shyte and you needed the thin gauge wires to prevent voltage losses within the leads. <<
My very basic electronic knowledge led me to believe that thicker wire, less voltage drop ( I[sup]2[/sup]R law etc) hence advantage having thicker core - I wouldn't throw out the Magnecor just yet - I'd want good evidence first and see what Magnecor had to say! (and yes, I've just bought some.....)
"What you doing this weekend?"
"Fixing the car"
"What d'you expect - it's a Peugeot! Should have bought Japanese........"
munfred wrote:Always makes me laugh when you read in the mags about the chavs getting extra BHP from upgrading plugs and leads.
Me m8 pete as got da Corsa 1 leeter innit an he runz iz tank ov petril wiv da Nawz in it. E sed u can get nawz in da 2 leeter bokkles from amerika an evryfin.
E had da race wiv a scoobie an win it, da scoobie guy wuz well gutted, next pete iz fittin sum turbos and a strate 4 enjin wiv a type R geer box lol 1111111eleventy11111 lol
(sorry, not in tomorrow)
English isn't my first language, so the above is very very hard to read!
