406oc.co.uk

Hello....

I have a 2.2hdi coupe and everything is fine untill I hit 70mph then the car goes into limp mode and says anti pollution defective.....if left for a while it re sets itself and runs ok untill 70 mph is reached again.
When it goes into limp mode the engine management light comes on....but goes out again after the car has been turned off and left for some time.....any help appreciate. ......Stuart

Hi Stuart and welcome aboard.

There can be several causes and you my need to get it diagnosed with PP2000 to be sure.

The most common cause for what you're describing is excessive turbo boost, usually caused by a vacuum system leak. I would be tempted to test your swirl flap actuator first.....

Hi Stuart, welcome.

I agree with Doggy, also swap your left-hand electrovalve ( you should have 3 on the bulk-head ) with a known good one to eliminate it as an issue. This one controls the turbo.

If you add your location to your profile maybe someone nearby can help diagnose the problem.

Hi....whats PP 2000?????
And where do I find the swirl actuator flap and what does it do.....thanks Stuart

Hi Stuart. PP2000 is the diagnostics program for Peugeot. Quite a few members here have access to it as it can be run on a basic laptop.

The swirl actuator, I recently found out - is a diaphragm that 'opens' at 2100 revs. When it opens it uses the other 8 valves that are dormant at low revs ( ours is a 16v but only 8v are used under 2100 revs ) If yours is leaking/split - which is fairly common - then you are only using 8v across the revs, flagging up a message on the dash.

Thanks guys.....next problem is trying to find someone nearish Market Harborough or Rothley that can diagnosis it for me.
Also where do I find the swirl actuator flap....thanks again

Hi Stuart,
Welcome to THE forum , I have pp2000 if it helps & I live just outside of coalville.
pm me if your interested DDD.

The swirl actuator is a rod with a diaphragm on the end. The top tiny ball joint can be seen just under the right hand side of the front half of the engine cover. You can follow the rod down behind the engine to just about see the black circular diaphragm. If you rev the engine from under the bonnet you should see the ball joint flick forwards then drop back when you let the revs drop.
If you type HDI swirl diaphragm in ebay you can see a picture of it, to get the idea.

As a quick thought - if you have 5 mins spare you can swap the 2 pipes and electric connector from the middle electrovalve to the left electrovalve and vice versa ( take a picture with your phone first if you are unsure how to put them back..)
Take the car for a spin and see if anything has changed.

Thank you all so much.
Im overwhelmed with the fantastic advice and absolutely fantastic offer of diagnostic from dirtydirtydiesel.......

As a newbee I congratulate you all.

Many many thanks to some genuine nice people. ....cheers Stuart

Well - I first came to the forum not really knowing much, but I have also had so much help and learned so much from many many good and genuine people...

This forum is ace.

Hi from another HDi Coupe owner

Yep agree with Doggy, sounds like turbo overboost caused by a vac leak. See what diagnostics says, take some screenshots if you can and post them up here

Huge amount of knowledge around here about that engine so it'll get sorted one way or another. Most likely a £25 part so hopefully should be a quick and cheap fix!

Having just changed the swirl actuator on my car I will say its do-able on your drive with a basic tool kit but be prepared to scrape your knuckles a bit and give yourself a few hours to do it in.
Having said that your car is now at least 10 years old so the first thing I'd do is arm yourself with some new vac pipe, 2 metres to be on the safe side. A leak anywhere on the system will cause the other components to misbehave making it dificult to diagnose so the pipes are a good thing to eliminate first as there cheap and should probably be replaced due to age anyway.
You'll see stiff plastic pipes on the car (about 3mm diameter) with larger rubber pipes attached, change as much of the rubber stuff as you can as it perishes and splits over time.
Remove the front engine cover, air filter box, MAF and rubber flexi pipe and that should make virtually all of the vac pipe visible and relatively accesible, the only one you need to get under the car for will be the turbo actuator pipe (left hand electrovalve on the bulkhead). They are push fit so no tools needed for the pipes themselves except something to cut the replacement pipe to size.
You might want to use a screwdriver, allen keys and some sockets to take things off their brackets for easier access but thats all you need.
Assuming your car is unmodified there will be a fair bit of vac pipework, easiest way to trace it is start at the brake servo and follow the pipes.

When thats all done you should now have iliminated the pipe themselves as sources of leaks and you can start testing components but you'll need a vacuum gauge and some patience.
If you change the pipes and still get the fault then we'll go from there

....and I'm about 11 miles away from you, with all the kit.

PM me if you want to pop over.

Hi Stuart,
I'm still happy to help but to be honist Doggy's yer man round here when it come's to these engines.
He's got a welth of experiance with them & I'm about 35 miles away he's only 11 miles away, a no brainer I'd say .
Best of luck with it but with Doggy on the job you'll soon have it sorted & probably +44bhp & better on fuel to boot .DDD

Thanks again guys.....im checking the swirl actuator and all the hoses this weekend.....I might just fit a new one anyway as they are only cheap.....im convinced that is what it is now......as I went down the motorway yesterday and it was ok for ages at 2000 rpm as soon as I hit 2300 rpm it went into limp mode......a very happy and relived 406 owner. ...... Stuart