Took the plunge.....

[Doggy]

If the 110 pipework goes in ok it 'should' make it as simple as it can get as far as potential leaks are concerned.

According to Service Box, it's a 4572 V4, Brake vac hose, £11.84 inc VAT
(Mind you, that doesn't gaurantee it'll fit).

[mjb]

Interesting to note that it doesn't complain about the EGR being blanked without it being disabled in the map.

Indeed - there's no faults showing on the missus' car, even though the EGR pipe is blocked by means of being jammed full of oily crud

[Captain Jack]

Disabling the EGR, either by blanking or removing the vac supply doesn't cause a fault (but unplugging the solenoid does) either on the Bosch or Siemens system. Ditto on the 407 too.

Speaking of... have you remapped/deFAPped your 407 yet?

[rwb]

Interesting to note that it doesn't complain about the EGR being blanked without it being disabled in the map.

Indeed - there's no faults showing on the missus' car, even though the EGR pipe is blocked by means of being jammed full of oily crud

I wonder whether they knew this would happen and decided to make the fault not bring on the EML.

CJ: rather than hijack the thread I've replied here

[Doggy]

Checked with PP2k this evening and do I have the fault code:

Permanent fault EGR circuit: Air flow higher than expected.

I have now installed a no-egr map. Took it for a test run, does seem to have a bit more urgency. Having heard the map should be adjusted to prevent overboost with a 6-speed box, I tried a long uphill climb from 1500 - 3000 in 6th without any apparent issues. A re-check afterwards reveals no engine ecu faults.

One thing I did notice while on a very long coast down t'other side of the hill, the instantaneous mpg readout went to 900-odd as usual, then over-range? (----).
Anybody else get this?

Also noticed pedal-to-the-metal TPS reading of 93%, (seems the temporary fix of putting a tie wrap round the cable outer, when I mislaid the proper clip last year was less than perfect).

Throttle cable clip located & installed - TPS now 0% to 99% every time.

[jonsowman]

Interesting, I can't say I'm surprised that it noticed the fault eventually. Wonder why it considers it not serious enough for the EML? Still, sounds like you're sorted

Quick question - did you use the 1mm blank on the EGR intake and the 3mm on the outlet? Were the existing bolts long enough? And did you use the existing old gaskets, or replace with new, or none?

[nutski]

I have now installed a no-egr map. Took it for a test run, does seem to have a bit more urgency. Having heard the map should be adjusted to prevent overboost with a 6-speed box, I tried a long uphill climb from 1500 - 3000 in 6th without any apparent issues. A re-check afterwards reveals no engine ecu faults.

The no-egr map (if it's the usual one) has the boost tweaked up slightly.

I'm now finally getting around to having my IQ93 map modified as i do get overboost in 6th occasionally if i'm a little heavy footed from lower revs

[gumby6371]

I wouldn't worry about the over range fuel display Doggy, living at the bottom of a fairly steep hill I regularly see it on mine

[Doggy]

Quick question - did you use the 1mm blank on the EGR intake and the 3mm on the outlet? Were the existing bolts long enough? And did you use the existing old gaskets, or replace with new, or none?

I sandwiched the 1 mm blank between the end of the egr pipe and the inlet manifold, leaving the egr valve and everything else in place, so it looks standard. I used Loctite 574 on both sides of the blank, after thoughly cleaning the accessible portion of the inlet manifold, (via the air doser connection) and the end of the egr pipe. I deliberatley chose 1 mm aluminium to minimise the tendency for the blank's thickness to alter the angle of the egr pipe and to allow the blank to deform to fill the gap. Existing screws were long enough.

The no-egr map (if it's the usual one) has the boost tweaked up slightly.

I'm now finally getting around to having my IQ93 map modified as i do get overboost in 6th occasionally if i'm a little heavy footed from lower revs

Yes, it's the 'usual suspect'.

I seem to have acquired a 1.7 CDTI rail sensor and Passat MAP sensor. (So you can guess what's next).

I wouldn't worry about the over range fuel display Doggy, living at the bottom of a fairly steep hill I regularly see it on mine

Thanks, gumby. Thought I'd broken something else at first.

[jonsowman]

I sandwiched the 1 mm blank between the end of the egr pipe and the inlet manifold, leaving the egr valve and everything else in place, so it looks standard. I used Loctite 574 on both sides of the blank, after thoughly cleaning the accessible portion of the inlet manifold, (via the air doser connection) and the end of the egr pipe. I deliberatley chose 1 mm aluminium to minimise the tendency for the blank's thickness to alter the angle of the egr pipe and to allow the blank to deform to fill the gap. Existing screws were long enough.

Thanks Eric With the bolts undone, does the EGR return pipe come far enough away from the manifold to do some cleaning and fit the blank? Or did you loosen the bracket holding the pipe to the side of the head?

This seems like a very good idea, I might go down this route as I'm quite happy to leave the EGR plumbing in place. This blanking plate looks like yours - 1.2mm aluminium: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve-bla ... 0939006535

(Don't read the advert text too carefully if you value your sanity).

[Doggy]

With the bolts undone, does the EGR return pipe come far enough away from the manifold to do some cleaning and fit the blank? Or did you loosen the bracket holding the pipe to the side of the head?

You have to undo the bracket midway along the egr pipe as well.

This seems like a very good idea, I might go down this route as I'm quite happy to leave the EGR plumbing in place. This blanking plate looks like yours - 1.2mm aluminium: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve-bla ... 0939006535

(Don't read the advert text too carefully if you value your sanity).

Sanity? Me?

Yes, that looks spot on.

[gumby6371]

If you're going down the blanking route Jon I'd recommend blanking it at the EGR itself, that way you eliminate the possibility of any nasty gases escaping in the future.
If the blanks knock any critical joints out of alignment you wont get any eggsauce nastiness creeping through to the cabin.

Mine was blanked at the intake manifold already but as I had to remove everything to change the swirl actuator I fitted a blank before refitting the EGR.

[jonsowman]

Thanks both

I'm happy blanking at the outlet end too, but might still use a thin(-ish) ali plate because I want to leave the valve and pipework on the car (for MOT purposes). Reckon the 1.2mm ali plate would be OK for the outlet if the valve is left on?

[gumby6371]

I used a thin eBay aluminium plate at the EGR end, I'd guesstimate at 1.5mm and the existing blank at the other end was little more than coke can thick.
The pipe itself was blocked solid with gunk and I'm guessing the EGR was as well but as it was only for show I didn't bother inspecting or cleaning anything properly.
As you say leaving the EGR and pipework in place it eliminates the need for anything more solid as its clamped all around the edge to stop any distortion and potential leaks. Daubing everything in high temp liquid gasket helps as well.

Assuming that your coupe layout and access is similar I'd give yourself an hour to complete the job at a steady pace with smoke and brew breaks and half an hour to apply the plasters

If you have a strut brace that will need to come off so if you're planning to lift the car do that first and replace the bolts before lifting and avoid the struts dropping down, apologies for stating the obvious but easily forgotten if your anything like me, thats why I kept her on the ground.
I'd advise you remove the EV mount from the bulkhead next and cable tie it to the wiper arm (or other available place of safety) to keep it out of the way and avoid having to label and unplug anything.
I managed to wiggle my arm and a ratchet down the side of the engine to access the turbo pipe bolt and jubilee clip (1/4 inch ratchet with 50mm extension bar and 10mm and 8mm sockets IIRC) then the airbox end and the mounting point bolt and it should be free.
No water jacket on mine so I removed the EGR and pipework in 1 piece, from memory 2 bolts at the EGR, a bracket on the back of the block and one just above the swirl actuator and the 2 bolts on the intake manifold.
This is a bloody good time to change your swirl actuator if its suspect or at least pull it apart and check the diaphragm. I undid the mounting bracket just below the vac pump (2*10 mm bolts) as the last screw that holds the actuator is impossible to access in situ. In hindsight I would have changed all the rubber in the vac system with everything out of the way but of course I did it the hard way and still haven't done the turbo actuator pipe as the 2 pipes you will be removing are the ones that block access!

All this info is in Finchy's guide as you already know but a little confirmation never hurts!

[Welly]

If the EGR pipe (leading to the Manifold) is caked in crud then doesn't it follow that the Inlet Manifold itself will be caked up inside? I've not noticed anyone say they've removed the IM to do further cleanage?