406oc.co.uk

Hoping some of you guys can offer some tips to a newbie on oil changes. Wanted to do this myself for some time and everybody has got to start somewhere!

I have a 2001 Peugeot 406 Estate. I used to change the oil by using one of those pumps that sucks it out the top. However every other change I like to do from underneath to get the cr*p out that the pump doesn't do.

I've just bought axle stands (as I can't get under the car) and I'm looking for some help with doing an oil change. I've also just bough drain plug keys.

[*] As I said I've just bought axle stands (hold three tonne each - 6 tonne total). It says you must only use them in pairs - my worry is that when I jack the car up I am using the jack points - so where do I put the axle stands? I can't put it on the jacking point as I'm using that!
[*] Safety tips while working under the car?
[*] Underneath the engine is a cover - I can feel that there is simply a cable tie holding it on under the sump so my suggestion is just to clip it and pull it out the way to get to the drain plug (on the drivers side of the car)?
[*] Can I actually just remove the cover under the engine completely? Is it essential for anything?

I'm new to some of this but not daft so I know it's fairly straightforward. Any help greatly appreciated for this oil change virgin

- Use your judgement as to where to put the axle stands, under the suspension somewhere, cross member maybe, somewhere solid! If you're using a trolley jack maybe you could jack under the suspension then place the axle stands under the jacking points? Remember to block the rear wheels before you start. FWIW if I'm not taking the wheels off I prefer to use ramps, much easier than faffing about with jacks and axle stands, and very safe!
- If it's on axle stands it'll be very safe, don't rock it too much (but you'd have to rock it a hell of a lot for it to fall off the stands). One tip I like when jacking a car up is to put the spare wheel under the sill, but that's in case it falls off the jack while you're jacking it up.
- The under tray has funny "fixings" which some people seem to have terrible trouble with but mine never gave me any grief. If yours is cable tied then someone's already butchered it. Cut the cable ties and use new ones to fix it back when you've finished
- I know a few people have left the tray off and I don't think this has had any detrimental effects, but since it's there I'd put it back.

Other than that get the oil nice and warm before you start (because it'll drain better) but if you're going to get it "hot" be very careful! Make sure you're not directly under the drain plug when you undo it and try not to let the oil shoot up your sleeve, that'd be both messy and hot! I always use a board / paper to protect my drive from dirty oil because no matter how hard you try some will miss the collection bucket . And just remember that there are lots of hot and sharp bits under there so watch your head and be careful!

It is possible to drain the oil without removing the tray as the tray only extends a few inches beyond the sump nut. It's a bit messy and requires rags/paper to be stuffed in to create a 'channel' for the oil to drop off the back of the tray into a catcher. A quick wipe after and it's ok.

I remember that fateful day when I spent longer fixing the undertray than I did doing the mini service. Tie wraps and penny washers are needed if the fixings holes are rubbish.

I can't advise where to put the axle stands but be very careful and do not place them under the sheet metal of a floor pan etc. always place under a structural point of the body (not a drive shaft or ball joint etc). In fact be doubly-sure where to put them and how to do it before attempting this job. I used to work with a guy who's jack gave way and squashed his head against the tarmac (scar face we called him) f*cked him up pretty good and was off work for several months (think: major accident) so have a plan and work to it carefully, think of what could go wrong and assume it will do as a fail safe.

In fact: why don't you save yourself a whole lot of sh*t and buy a sump sucker-outer pumpy thing you won't even have to go under the car at all.

Guys,

Cheers for that info. I knew it was relatively easy job. Just those little tips (such as getting oil up your sleeve) that they never tell you in any manual

@Welly - I have one of those pump sucker things but they don't get all the cr*p out. Every other oil change I like to have a proper 'drain out the sump' oil change to make sure I pick that up. I don't want to pay the money for that and plus I like learning new things

As Dai said if the wheels are staying on the car then ramps are the safest option, obviously be careful not to go to fast and fly off the end.

If you have a wide shallow catch tray and can reach the sump plug with the wheels on the ground I wouldn't bother lifting the car at all. It really depends on if you can reach the sump plug and how tight it is. I have fairly long arms and have parked with the drivers wheel on a concrete block before I had ramps. Depending on where you live a kerb will do nicely but the council wont take kindly to old engine oil flowing down the drain so make sure the catch tray can be positioned properly.

The undertray stops some of the crap off the roads being thrown upwards into the engine bay so keep it if you can but there are many, many cars out there without theres and they're still running. It basically keeps things a bit cleaner.

My routine is;
Go for a quick blast to warm things up
Undo the sump plug then pull the dip stick to allow things to flow a bit better.
Remove the oil filter (have some rags positioned under filter to catch the used oil)
Smear some fresh oil on the seal of the new filter and screw it on a good hand tight - Do not use a filter wrench to tighten it!
Refit sump plug when the oil stops flowing remembering to fit a new copper washer. Replacement plug and washer kits aren't expensive and if you can get one with external flats for a standard socket it makes removal much easier next time around.
I tighten as much as I can using my third and pinky finger on the ratchet if that makes sense?. Thumb on the ratchet head and 3rd and 4th fingers on the end of the handle. This should avoid over tightening and stripping threads unless you have over-developed finger muscles from other activities .
Top up 3/4 of the oil and dip, then repeat every cup full or so until its nicely between the marks.
Check it again after a drive/cool down cycle and nip up the sump plug if any leaks are evident.

It sounds quite complicated written down but once you've done it once its straight forward enough just be careful not to over-tighten the filter or plug, wiping away oil and nipping things up slightly later is much easier than repairing threads!

Hope it all goes smoothly

According to the handbook, the recommended oils (all Total) are:
Ultra Diesel 10W40
Ultra 5W30
Ultra Diesel 5W40
Quartz Diesel 7000 10W40
Quartz 9000 5W40
Quartz 9000 5W30 (only from model year 2000)

Use only 5W40 oil for the 2.2 litre HDI engine.

Ultra doesn't seem to be available any more. Quartz is fully synthetic.

Trolley jack under the wishbone bolt and then axle stand on the jacking point.

Axle stands are okay, you will see the thicker box section chassis bits to put the stands under when you jack it up, definitely use a block or spare wheel under the sill if you are under the car.

Can I add, if you haven't changed the oil for a while, then it is a good idea when the sump has drained to pour some fresh oil in - not too much, maybe a cupful or two - enough to see it come out the other end nice and clear.

I agree with the other comments, I just let the engine tick over for 5 mins when parked with one wheel on the kerb, ( THEN TURN THE ENGINE OFF....!! ) undo the sump plug half-way only. I then change the air and fuel filter and then undo the sump plug fully before undoing the oil filter.

When you undo the filter oil comes out the sump quicker as air is getting in......

Definitely a smear of clean oil on the new filter rubber before fitting the filter. Hand tight is a must as it gets tighter on its own and its a bastard to take off if its on really tight.

Good luck, its an easy job that gets easier and takes less time when you get more practice.

GingerMagic wrote:I just let the engine tick over for 5 mins when parked with one wheel on the kerb, undo the sump plug half-way only. I then change the air and fuel filter and then undo the sump plug fully before undoing the oil filter.

You make that sound like you park skew-whiff up a kerb and half-crack the sump plug with the engine running

I always park skew whiff.......

I assumed it would be obvious to turn the engine off before the undoing the sump plug....

If your jack's big enough, here's the best way to lift the car:


Just jack it up here (be careful to get the subframe, not the thin little bit behind it) then put your axle stands under the jacking points on the sills.

Depending on the engine, you may not need to bother with the undertray, but I've always used zip ties to great success - much easier than faffing with rusted screws

Great pic MJB, knowing a central point to lift both wheels at once is a much better way to get the stands under than lifting one side at a time.

I do however have 2 questions;
1) How the hell do you get the jack under the front? - mine is far too low
2) Is the rug optional?

gumby6371 wrote:How the hell do you get the jack under the front? - mine is far too low

My jack used to *just* fit under the coupé with some nudging, but most of the time I either drove up on ramps to get started, or used another jack to lift one side a bit

The rug ended up at the tip

Nice post maybe a good one for the knowledge base ???

If your anywhere near Preston Lancs you can come to my workshop one sunday and use the ramp if its not already in use

When I've jacked up my 406s I've put axle stands under the crossmember that MJB jacks from!