I fear this is going to be more of a how-not-to, but here goes......
I had the sense to check previous posts, including this excellent Howto by Eviltwin:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8229
(which is frankly, a much better effort than Doggy's stumbling progress, but back to the plot).
Things started well - goodies inspection:
Pleased to see a metal impeller....
Right. Time to remove the old intercooler bypass heat exchanger....
....and make some room. Off with the boost pipe, fuel hoses, ecu housing, temporarily shift various bits of loom....
.....soon to be followed by aux drive belt, nsf wheel, front section of wheelarch liner, which gives you this view.
Next, I undid the crank pulley bolt. My method uses a 22 mm impact socket, two 1/2" drive extension bars, 600 mm breaker bar and Mrs Doggy's dainty right foot, (not shown), on't brake pedal, in top gear. One max man-points heave and Bob's your mumz bro.
Next, I removed the timing belt covers, bottom, (easy), top, (pure bitumised, enamalled, steward of bars), then the pièce de résistance the intermediate cover. This caused much swearing, 'specially when I broke a bit off it, which fortunately didn't really matter. Forget to get any pics of this bit, sorry.
Things now went from bad to worse.
Having done this same job on the old Dogmobile a couple of years back, I
knew exactly where to find the crankshaft locking hole behind the starter, 'cept I couldn't find it.
Had a fumble round the back side of the block and didn't find it there either.
Time for desperate measures, (read the instructions), none the wiser, I followed in Eviltwin's footsteps and removed the starter......
(which entailed disconnecting the MAF, removing the airbox, then noting the engine earth on one of the starter bolts, I decided to disconnect the battery first).
I had felt sort of half of a hole just above the starter, and a corresponding hole in the flywheel that was almost in line when the crankshaft was in the TDC position, maybe this could be it?
Alas no.
Lets try t'other side again....
Well, there is a hole in the block casting, maybe that offset locking pin I got last time but wouldn't fit......
Mmm, not bad for a pic taken lying under the car, was it?
Unlike the next two - this one sort of shows the pin in place, (parallel with the driveshaft).
Another view - you might be able to make this out, (eventually).
Perhaps unsurprisingly, it was now possible to set the crankshaft just before TDC, then lying in the pool of antifreeze I had thoughtfully created under the sump, I was able to turn the engine fractionally when pressing the pin forward. I was rewarded with a satisfying clunk as it dropped into place at precisely TDC. (On mine at least, this coincides with the woodruff key in the crankshaft at 12 o'clock).
The camshaft was also aligned correctly and I was able to pin this too, (but forgot the pics).
Also removed the torque reaction link, (which shows signs of the rubber failing for some reason, but the pics didn't come out). Then support the engine on the jack / piece of wood under the sump, remove the right-hand top engine mount. (The timing belt goes around the top mount, so you have no choice).
Undid the tensioner and off cam the old timing belt, soon followed by the tensioner and idler, (which both proved identical to the replacements). I removed the water pump next, discoverd the camera batteries were flat, the rain started, one of the dogs escaped, 'your dinners getting cold' etc. etc. etc.
Suitably nourished, (but alas camera-less), I returned to the fray.
More precious time was lost trying to remove all traces of the old water pump gasket, without damaging the joint face, then unblocking the sealant nozzle. Finally got the new pump on, followed by the idler, tensioner on loose, the the timing belt.
First attempt at tensioning, saw the tension about right at the tensioner and idler, but clearly very loose at the top. No matter, that's easily sorted by slackening the three screws holding the camshaft pulley to the hub.....
Refitted the locking pins, undid the screws only to find they're at the extreme clockwise end of the slots. Tension off again, belt off the camshaft pulley, rotate clockwise one tooth, refit belt, re-tension.....
Kept getting it alternately too loose, too tight, too loose. Finally reached a compromise I was just about happy with. Refitted the locking pins, slackened of the three screws in the camshafy pulley again, only to find they're now at the extreme anti-clockwise end of the slots!
Off with the belt again, repositioned the cam pulley much more carefully and finally succeeded in getting it set as it should be, after another bout of too loose, too tight, too loose and being honest, it wound up marginally tighter than I would ideally have liked. Refitted the starter, airbox, battery, timing belt covers, top mount, shoved the wheel back on and called it a night.
Day 2
Refitted the torque reaction link, aux drive belt, ecu housing, fuel pipes, repostioned the various bits of loom, then set about flushing the engine prior to refilling with pukka new red antifreeze as recommended. During this process I ran the engine a few times, listening intently for the first hint of impending doom, all seemed OK.
The only way I could find of draining it was by removing hoses and bleed plugs. Maybe there's a good way of draining the block, but I didn't find one. Between this and the thermostat preventing circulation, I was conscious I wasn't getting everything out each time. Drained it again, refilled with fresh water to ensure I was geting enough out to make room for sufficient antifreeze - yes, it was taking at least 5 litres.
Poured in about 4 litres of a/f, then topped up with water, then tried to run it up to temperature. Had to resort to running the aircon, interior fan at full speed, headlights, rear window and finally, after about half an hour, the thermostat opened and all was well. (During this period, I heard an odd intermitent whirring noise,
which turned out to be the rad fan cycling on/off to cool the condenser).
But after all that, it seems to be running like a swiss watch and I guess that's me done with cambelts and water pumps for as long as I'll have the car.
But I did notice a brake overhaul will have to attempted before too long.
