406oc.co.uk

Hi everyone,

I will soon be fitting a bosch pump to my 2.1td and just wanted to double check everything before fitting.

1. Rotate LDA lid 180deg.

2. Follow process for fitting the IP on a 1.9 (position/timing etc...)

3. Use injectors and lines from Bosch setup, manipulating one of them to clear the boost pipe.

4. Find boost pressure source for LDA.

5. Wire 12v ign live to stop solenoid.

6. Adjust timing as necessary.

I have searched through here and read the topics but wondered about the following-

1.Best place to get the ign live so there is no over run.

2.Will I encounter immob probs afterwards.

3.Has a solution been found for the Rpm gauge dropping out after 3k and turning the management light on.

Thanks in advance for any help. The car is registered 1996 if that makes any difference.

I think you have covered most things, the most important being using the Bosch injector pipes, it wont work with the Lucas ones, I didn't change the injectors when I converted a BX and it worked fine.

If you have an early Bosch pump it won't have an immobiliser, it will have one terminal for the solenoid, connect this to pretty well any live with ignition on connection. If it has the same electrics as the Hdi take the top off the engine fuse box and check for live ignition connections.

Peter

Your best bet for 100% integration would be to get an engine loom, ECU and VP44 pump from a 406 1.9TD.

But... There are ECUs that you can install that will let the rev counter work properly.

As far as the imob goes, if you put a switched live to the stop solenoid then there is no immobiliser.

Thanks for the replies The pump is an early type, so just the stop solenoid to sort out. I have all the lines etc but have read the injectors have a lower pop pressure on the Lucas ones which would effect timing.
I noticed the shaft seal is leaking so it needs re sealing before I use it.

Bailes1992- do you have any details on the ECU's which allow the RPM to work correctly?

Have a read through this: http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/myb ... 287&page=2. You appear to need a 1996 ECU with the short serial number ending in A (80708A).

One chap says (referring to the longer serial number):

My working ECU is: 96 274 538 80

And there's one on eBay with this exact serial number: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-406-2 ... 1115375515

Cheers thats great my car is registered 96 so I might have the correct ECU already.

So the bosch is on, need to fine tune it though as it's lacking power. Problem now is my cooling fans appear to only work when A/C is switched on. Also my blooming clutch has gone really limp so the pedal needs to be buried in the floor for gear changes

If you are sure you have the timing correct you can adjust the fuel with the screw at the back of the pump where the injector pipes fit on, screwing it in increases the fuel.

Peter

Timing is possibly a bit too advanced as it's quite clattery but I rebuilt the pump beforehand so things could be slightly out. I've been turning the max fuel screw in slowly but it's raising idle speed too.

Found the problem with the clutch, bloody inlet on the master cylinder had split causing all the oil to leak out

Over advance shouldn't affect the performance a lot, although it did used to break the crankshafts of the Perkins 4/108 engines I used years ago - but they did only have a three bearing crankshaft, being retarded will though, it will also make it difficult to start and run hot. I don't think I have ever had the fuel screw affect the idle speed. The adjustment is quite critical, half a turn is enough to make it smoke.

Peter

Trying to get to the bottom of why the fans don't cut in at high temp, can anyone identify where this plug lives? The wires are green and red and it comes out the loom around the PAS pump.

So just a follow up to this, ive now retarded the timing to get rid of the clatter, the pump still needs fine tuning as it's lacking power and cold starting on WVO is very lumpy.

I plan on wiring the cold start advance solenoid to the glow plug relay which should aid starting.

K light is still on, instead of taking the bulb out I will find the wire coming from the ECU and disconnect it.

Tacho cuts out at 3k. Either get an earlier ECU or I've read that if the TPS is held in the maximum position it prevents the fault. More electrical investigation needed for this one.

Cooling fans don't cut in at high temp but do work with A/C. Looking at wiring diagrams the cooling temp sensor is/was connected to the pump ecu so I might of damaged the connection?????

Besides that, running on WVO is saving my wallet which is a big bonus