406oc.co.uk

Hi Guys

Going for a DIY front pad and discs replacement tomorrow on the 2.2, anything I need to be aware of that might catch me out?

Also oil change, Would you recommend an additive, if so which one, Forte, Ametech, Valvoline etc

Cheers

The pad wear sensor wires may only have two long enough for to reach in the outboard position, check before fitting the pads.

I recommend using a decent 0W40 fully synthetic for the 2.2, but I wouldn't bother with any additives.

Sorry for slight hijack, but are you finding 0W40 better than 5W40 then Eric? I've been using Total Quartz 9000 5W40 full synth...

Doggy wrote:I recommend using a decent 0W40 fully synthetic for the 2.2, but I wouldn't bother with any additives.

Please be careful Eric - I think this is what did my 406 in - it was used to a thicker viscosity than the 0w40 that went in - I suspect it turned a minor leak into a bigger leak....

Well chuffed with meself. Nice new pads and discs and no dramas.

Why can,t all braking systems be as straight forward as this Peugeot?

Might tackle the rears next weekend

Sagwala wrote:Well chuffed with meself. Nice new pads and discs and no dramas.

Why can,t all braking systems be as straight forward as this Peugeot?

Might tackle the rears next weekend

I think your joy and wonderful amazement at Peugeots braking system will be short lived when you get to the back brakes.....

Lets hope your backplates are in good condition, its a straightforward job - only made tricky by rusty bits and bobs....

Have a read here first to get your head around it, viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13956

Kelv.

+1

jonsowman wrote:Sorry for slight hijack, but are you finding 0W40 better than 5W40 then Eric? I've been using Total Quartz 9000 5W40 full synth...

GingerMagic wrote:

Doggy wrote:I recommend using a decent 0W40 fully synthetic for the 2.2, but I wouldn't bother with any additives.

Please be careful Eric - I think this is what did my 406 in - it was used to a thicker viscosity than the 0w40 that went in - I suspect it turned a minor leak into a bigger leak....

Sorry gents, I meant 5W40, (which is what I'm using currently).

GingerMagic wrote:

Sagwala wrote:Well chuffed with meself. Nice new pads and discs and no dramas.

Why can,t all braking systems be as straight forward as this Peugeot?

Might tackle the rears next weekend

I think your joy and wonderful amazement at Peugeots braking system will be short lived when you get to the back brakes.....

Lets hope your backplates are in good condition, its a straightforward job - only made tricky by rusty bits and bobs....

Have a read here first to get your head around it, viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13956

Kelv.

Had need to check rears today, all looking good backplates, calipers, pads, so ain't gonna fix wot ain't broken.

Just need to follow the 'how to' for handbrake adjustment and hope it does the trick, cos handbrake barely holds right at the top!

If you're doing the handbrake then I'd pop the pads out and give the sliders a clean and a bit of copper grease while you're there.
Just make a note of the spring clip arrangement before you disassemble.
When I did mine a few weeks back they looked fine but I had to really 'persuade' the pads out so they must have been very close to binding in the sliders. Small file on the sliders, pins and edges of the pads then copper grease everything except the pad faces. I swear the brakes felt better after but that's probably just me being more confident in them.
Only takes a couple of extra minutes and well worth it for the peace of mind.

Check Jaspers handbrake guide and also look for bunnybr's guide on you tube (can't link it at work as no you tube access)
Best tip I can give for handbrake is when putting them back together put the long spring on first, I found it saves a lot of swearing!

When I reassemble my handbrake - I tend to do the handbrake 'claw' type hinge nearest the back bumper, then slot the 2 shoes onto it, then the spring nearest the claw. Attach this bundle to the backplate with the top shoe bayonet fitting and then pop the adjuster in place ( which I hope you have opened and greased first ) , then the bottom shoe bayonet fitting. Finally the spring nearest the adjuster as this is the easiest/most forgiving....