406oc.co.uk

Morning to all, the wagon is newly acquired with XUD11BTE diesel and 5 sp manual built in '98.
A look inside the plastic inlet manifold finds it to be caked in 1/4 inch of sooty crap, so 1st thought is deactivate the EGR; is a ball in the vacuum line the best way.??
Secondly, the user handbook talks of 'Maintenance-free hydraulic clutch control. NEVER OPEN THE RESERVOIR'. Am hoping someone can enlighten me about its operation and especially the warning.
Thanks.

Dunno about the egr, standard practice seems to be to blank it with plates.

The clutch hydraulics is meant to be a sealed system, there's no way of bleeding it. I don't know why topping it up is disallowed, maybe because it'll overflow if the clutch is changed.

thanks for that. Being familiar with blanking a 407HDi I looked for but couldn't find a suitable place for installation of the plate.
I gather that simply unscrewing the cap is not going to result in some catastrophy happening to the system that needs dealer help.

you can just unplug the egr and put a ball or a bolt or somthing in the end then put a clip of some kined round it

That's great news madmadmax, nice and simple. After seeing all the crud in there you'd have to wonder why Peug designed a system that ensures an unfiltered and oxygen free waste product is mixed with clean filtered air.

Yes unplugging it will disable the EGR, the solenoid is on the bulkhead. The clutch system is sealed and cannot be bled unless you change the black plastic pipe with a suitable flexi section. If you do this be careful as the barbed section on the M/C is easily broken (as I've found out) :-)

That's good news uberderv on the EGR and some wise caution re the hydraulic clutch. Without thinking I unscrewed the top of the clutch 'reservoir' on the firewall and am/was worried I may have let some special clutch air or the activating genie out and it won't work again. Car's engine is being repaired after a cam belt slip so have not been able to test the clutch.
Does anyone know of a good procedure to remove the original cam belt tensioner.?? Have unsuccessfully tried double nutting.
In a thread somewhere it was stated the tensioners are very robust as is the idler, but as it was the idler separating into 2 pieces that wounded this engine I feel that at 245,000 miles both should be renewed.
Thanks.