Air con repair
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Hi there.. am new to the forum's but have a problem along these lines.,
I have a X reg 2.0 HDI estate and the A/C isn't working the compressor does not engage... had it checked
no gas the guy found a leak where the hose from the compressor fixes to the condensor at top left side
looking from front... he said i need a new condensor... my question are :- wouldn't replacing the o ring
cure this problem ... and if at worst i needed to change condensor how easy/hard would this be as the
intercooler is down the side of the rad.. any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated
I have a X reg 2.0 HDI estate and the A/C isn't working the compressor does not engage... had it checked
no gas the guy found a leak where the hose from the compressor fixes to the condensor at top left side
looking from front... he said i need a new condensor... my question are :- wouldn't replacing the o ring
cure this problem ... and if at worst i needed to change condensor how easy/hard would this be as the
intercooler is down the side of the rad.. any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated
.. ooh are those drugs for me Matron
- Welly
- The moderator formally known as Welton
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- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:52 pm
- Location: East Midlandfordshire
The condenser swap isn't too bad a job although I don't know exactly what you need to remove but I don't think you have to remove the water rad etc.
I was charged £300.00 for the job and thats remove old, fit new, and regass etc. so the labour element was probably 3 hrs all in I would say.
If the leak is on the joint it is still likely to be down to the condenser corroding. I had this on a Mitsubishi - no matter how many O rings we tried the joint still leaked, I even sent off for the original O ring from Japan and it still leaked even though the joint faces looked really clean. In the end only a new condenser sorted the problem with it's new joint.
You are bang on time for a new condenser anyway - 7 years is the max. My 1999 failed last year, at 7 years.
When it finally craps out it looks like this:
Leaves and dirt all collect in the bottom of the black plastic fan housing at the front and cause the aluminium to perish. The green stuff is the refrigerant oil pissing out. This all happened within 1 week and the a/c crapped out.
I have a lovely new condenser now and a new fan (different, expensive story) and the a/c is fantastic with air-off temps of less than 5deg C
I was charged £300.00 for the job and thats remove old, fit new, and regass etc. so the labour element was probably 3 hrs all in I would say.
If the leak is on the joint it is still likely to be down to the condenser corroding. I had this on a Mitsubishi - no matter how many O rings we tried the joint still leaked, I even sent off for the original O ring from Japan and it still leaked even though the joint faces looked really clean. In the end only a new condenser sorted the problem with it's new joint.
You are bang on time for a new condenser anyway - 7 years is the max. My 1999 failed last year, at 7 years.
When it finally craps out it looks like this:
Leaves and dirt all collect in the bottom of the black plastic fan housing at the front and cause the aluminium to perish. The green stuff is the refrigerant oil pissing out. This all happened within 1 week and the a/c crapped out.
I have a lovely new condenser now and a new fan (different, expensive story) and the a/c is fantastic with air-off temps of less than 5deg C
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
- jameslxdt
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 2512
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:30 pm
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D8 10 years old with original condenser
D9's really are shite
D9's really are shite
FAQ - 406 D8 petrol (excl. V6) running and starting problemsPeugeot wrote:what are you worried about? we made car that lasted 10 years"..."Zat is very goode non?
Just thought i would add my own recent experience with my condenser
(hdi 110 ) after a post on here and being told what it could cost had a go myself.. the
cost was :- condensor £88 + vat pipe seals £2= £105.. then cost of recharge and test
which was £55 so £160 total and it took me 2 hours and i am way past my best mechaniking days
i also have seen condensors costing less on the net
(hdi 110 ) after a post on here and being told what it could cost had a go myself.. the
cost was :- condensor £88 + vat pipe seals £2= £105.. then cost of recharge and test
which was £55 so £160 total and it took me 2 hours and i am way past my best mechaniking days
i also have seen condensors costing less on the net
.. ooh are those drugs for me Matron
Perhaps i should add that i got a quote from the local stealers
and they wanted £470 to do it.... £178 just for the condensor... that kind of fright
was just what i needed to make me pull my finger out.. they said they are told
by puegeot to book 4.1 hrs for the job... they must have an awful lot of tea breaks
Their attitude on charging i could never understand ... i would prefer to have my car
repaired there and would pay a little extra to do so but not the prices they want to charge
and as there are a lot of customers who think the same they miss out on a awful lot
of business
and they wanted £470 to do it.... £178 just for the condensor... that kind of fright
was just what i needed to make me pull my finger out.. they said they are told
by puegeot to book 4.1 hrs for the job... they must have an awful lot of tea breaks
Their attitude on charging i could never understand ... i would prefer to have my car
repaired there and would pay a little extra to do so but not the prices they want to charge
and as there are a lot of customers who think the same they miss out on a awful lot
of business
.. ooh are those drugs for me Matron
Since your profile says you're in Staffs, I'd recommend you pay these guys a visit for any work you want done: http://www.simon-dean.co.uk/ They're in Stoke near M6 J15
They'll know your car better than the dealers and do a heck of a lot better job for a fraction of the cost.
They'll know your car better than the dealers and do a heck of a lot better job for a fraction of the cost.
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
-
- 1.8 8v
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:55 pm
Just thought I'd add to this thread as I have similar issues with a/c... my main problem at the moment is working out what is wrong with my fan - I've overheated a few times sat in traffic and I've worked ou the fan will not kick in.
Now, I've looked a bit deeper and even when I press the a/c botton the fan still doesn't work (I understand it should be on slow speed?)
Anyone got any ideas of what to do next - It looks like someone else has already investigated as an electrical loom was found loose and unplugged (retangular box to RH side looking at front of radiator where there are resistors and relays)
I've visualed the a/c conmponents and they look in pretty good condition - can anyone tell me what the condensor looks like (do you just mean the main radiator or am I looking for something else?)
Please excuse my stupidity as I'm not a mechanic, far from!
Now, I've looked a bit deeper and even when I press the a/c botton the fan still doesn't work (I understand it should be on slow speed?)
Anyone got any ideas of what to do next - It looks like someone else has already investigated as an electrical loom was found loose and unplugged (retangular box to RH side looking at front of radiator where there are resistors and relays)
I've visualed the a/c conmponents and they look in pretty good condition - can anyone tell me what the condensor looks like (do you just mean the main radiator or am I looking for something else?)
Please excuse my stupidity as I'm not a mechanic, far from!