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Brake calliper slider bolt
Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 7:17 pm
by Razza
Anyone know how I can remove the rear brake calliper slider bolt (covered by the little leaky plastic dust cover) when it's Allen socket head is stripped? I'd like to smack a torx drive into the rusted hex bolt head and try that. What could go wrong??
Interestingly, the other side seems spotless and rust free...
Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 7:38 pm
by jameslxdt
if you rounded it off you used the wrong size, its a 6mm allen key, the only way to get a rounded off one out is to drill out the head and once the caliper is off you can unscrew the body bolt
Re: Brake calliper slider bolt
Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:04 pm
by niz406
Razza wrote:I'd like to smack a torx drive into the rusted hex bolt head and try that. What could go wrong??
Well you could sheer the torx driver or it will undo, just make sure you use the right size... This is the method I would use..!
Or you can weld a bit of bar to the nut head and then undo it with that
Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:38 pm
by Benner
I always found that a flat head hammered in so that it goes from one point to another works well for me. Prob need to use a set of grips to get enough umpf behind it though!
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:24 am
by mjb
That's the exact same little b*stard that got me on mine
An impact driver (looks like a ratchet screwdriver, but you hit it with a hammer!) will shift it if you've not rounded the base of it too much. Replacements are about £2 from the stealers
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:28 pm
by Razza
I originally used the 6mm Allen driver but it was too far rusted. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try a torx first to check if it's easy to get purchase, then the flat screwdriver with a hex shaft for grip...
Find a happy place.....
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:39 pm
by mjb
I'd go straight for the impact driver - you really don't want to be faced with having to get it drilled out
Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 2:31 pm
by Razza
Well I invested in a impact driver and ... it didn't get the bolt out. In fact, I tried both directions of rotation coz the instructions weren't clear. I tried different sized torx bits and 16 spline bits too and each time, the blasted bit slipped. So...Drill time!
Just a tip though; I removed the disc by removing the lower slider bolt (large) and swinging the calliper away from the disc carefully (brake pipe has some designed in flexibility but not too much!) but I felt the need/responsibility to replace the rusted hex bolt anyways.
Four broken HSS drill bits later, I successfully drilled out the bolt and the thread popped out. Phew! I had to use my SDS drill for drilling/chiselling the brake pad pins out anyways..
Rear drum shoes were inspected and cleaned and ok. Rear brake pads and discs £88 total for parts.... £14 for impact driver to add to my workshop...
Job done and just a little road noise (symptomatic of estates?) but no howl. So I'm a happy bunny