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Ok , please forgive my confusion (or ignorance!) here. I am told that it may be possible to remap the 2.0 HDi 110 to improve its performance and fuel consumption. I understand there may be several different options to do this, some requiring the removal, or addition, of certain components. What is the considered 'best' option to go for (i.e. Understand there are 135, 145 even 180bhp possibilities ??)

I also have read that since legislation changed in 2014, the removal of the DPF will now result in MOT failure and also render the vehicle non road legal.
I think (hope) I am correct in thinking my 2002 2.0 HDi 110 does not have a DPF fitted. With that in mind, can anyone offer recommendation, or discouragement, as to whether a remap is a worthwhile investment? Does it produce 'real world' performance improvements or is it fairly superficial? What about the ramifications for insurance premiums? Am perfectly happy to declare this but not if it will be cost prohibitive. Anyone found this to be the case?

Last question, does the fact the car is an automatic have any bearing on the feasibility of having the remap done?

Thanks to anyone with experience of this who can enlighten me further ...!

Answer should be yes, see attached link:
http://www.hdi-tuning.co.uk/ecu-remappi ... DI110.html

Your car won't have a DPF.
The 110 engine can be remapped to give useful additional performance with no known downsides BUT I have never heard of anyone doing it with an auto.
Standard bhp/torque is 109/184 lb/ft, normally remap to something like 145 bhp/220 lb/ft, (I don't honestly remember exact numbers but IIRC 135 sounds like what can be achieved from a HDi 90, 180 is the usual number for a remapped 2.2).
Suggest you try to find the specification for the gearbox first.

Doggy wrote:The 110 engine can be remapped to give useful additional performance with no known downsides BUT I have never heard of anyone doing it with an auto.

I did email Steven at hdi-tuning and asked, amongst other questions, if being an automatic would make it still possible to remap. I didn't get an answer though, unfortunately.

Doggy wrote:Suggest you try to find the specification for the gearbox first.

Guess you are referring to the max torque it can handle here? Any ideas where to best look for this info? Good suggestion though - many thanks Doggy.

Username Removed wrote:The stock map on the 110 is garbage - absolutely no top end pulling power but tolerable torque.

Is that the stock 'Stage 1 - DPF Friendly 135BHP' remap you are referring to? I had read good things about the Stage 1 Remap - 145BHP regards additional performance and torque. Given my car doesn't have a DPF, this was the one I was hoping to go for. Is it not a worthwhile investment then?? The stage 2, whilst certainly attractive, probably wouldn't be a cost effective option for me given the extra expense involved with the additional intercooler and exhaust.

Username Removed wrote:If you were going to go ahead with this, I'd definitely get the gearbox oil changed and use a very high quality fluid (call up Opie Oils - who are fantastic - and ask them what the best fluid they do for you car is). This will prolong the life of the box as well as making the shifts smoother.

Thanks Ben - sound advice! In fact, I have just done that very thing! It was something recommended to me when I bought the car and, with the kind endorsement of the good folk on this forum, something I wanted to get done. I went to Opie Oils and bought 5l of the recommended fluid - Mobil ATF LT71141 - and had it changed last week. Transmission now drives smoothly and, touch wood, not had a reoccurrence of the dreaded 'emergency 3rd gear only' scenario! Don't want to speak too soon....
I had also read that it would be advantageous (or common sense!) to have the vehicle in top shape before having the remap done. On the list, for me, next is replacing the crankshaft pulley and aux belt. Then oil and filter change. Car was serviced shortly before I bought it but want to refill with trusted Mobil 1 New Life for peace of mind. Also just bought a K&N High flow air filter for her as well.

Other job I want to get done is to replace the injectors - have been told this may be the cause of the clicking noisiness on idle/low revs? All new territory again to me though - 1st diesel car and all that comes with it!

So, tell me, for those who have had the remap done, did you do it by reading and emailing your ecu map / sending your ecu by post or did anyone opt to take their car down to the workshop? I am curious to know because I was toying with booking it into the workshop to have it done 'in the flesh' so to speak in case anything else may be lurking that i don't know about and which may affect the final outcome. Be keen to hear how others had theirs done as, maybe the 200+ mile trip may be unnecessary?

Username Removed wrote: The dpf friendly one I reckon would suit your car.

No DPF on my car. Thats why I was thinking of going for the Stage 1 remap, the 145BHP one.

Username Removed wrote: Injectors are well worth replacing, I bought a genuine bosch rebuilt set, they were £100ea but they were easily the best thing I've done for the car. Makes the engine feel so much younger, it's amazing how smooth then 110 is with good injectors.

Could you tell me then, how difficult a task is this to achieve? Would be happy to do it myself if not too specialist, or is it best left to an expert??

By the way, if it may be of interest to others, I got a reply this morning from Steven at HDI-Tuning. Yes, the remap is a possibility for the 110 with automatic transmission. He explained that the AL4 ECU 'manages' the torque to protect the box. This came as good news (for me anyway!) as i had found the specification for the AL4 transmission and it was reporting a max torque of only 210Nm. Found this odd as the 2.0 HDi 110 engine is reported to be 250Nm max torque BEFORE any remap is applied.

However, I also came across a posting on Peugeotforums which stated the AL4 was rated at 320Nm and 150BHP max - so, who to believe....?
This post concluded with the suggestion 'why not reflash the AL4 ECU to allow use of the extra torque available (sounds like a likely meltdown of the autobox to me.... but, what do I know?! )

Anyone knows how much torque RHZ clutch could handle.