406oc.co.uk

Havnt been on for quite a while, had serious health problems and now trying to play catchup on all things that went pear shaped while I was recovering..

One problem is with my 2.2hdi, motor needs replacing/rebuild. It is coupled to a 5 speed manual tranny which has reverse on the lhs and 5th on rhs of the gate unlike the 2.0hdi which has reverse below 5th on the right. Question is.. can a 2.0hdi be bolted to the 2.2 tranny? I happen to have a good 2.0 lurking in my shed I can sort out wiring it into the 2.2 loom. Will be easier at this point in time swapping motors as opposed to trying to rebuild a 2.2 which I think I have the only one in NZ so parts will DEFINITELY be unavailable here. Freight delays to NZ are significant right now due to all this virus circus

Sorry to hear about your health issues, hope you're over the worst.

Also a pity about the 2.2 - what do you think is wrong with it?

As regards swapping to a 2.0 it depends on whether it's a 90 or 110 bhp version, 110 is a closer match.

The 2.2 flywheel is bigger, so the transmission bell housing is larger to accommodate it, you would definitely need at least that part of the 2.0 gearbox.

The gear change pattern itself isn't important, early 110 & 2.2;s had reverse 4th gear, (ML5T gearbox)? whereas later cars had reverse beside 1st, (ML5C 'box)? I believe all 90 bhp cars had reverse beside 4th. The reverse detent mechanism is also different so it's likely you would need to change the gear lever assembly over too.

Gearing is similar enough that you probably wouldn't notice between a 2.2 & 2.0 110, but the 90 bhp has a lower final drive ratio since it would struggle to pull the higher geared setup.

110's have fewer vacuum solenoids - 2 or 3 according to age as opposed to the 2.2's 5. I think the 90 only has one since it has no intercooler/MAP sensor and a mechanical dump valve.

I guess your 2.2 will have all the wiring loom and vacuum connections, you just wouldn't use all of them.

Engine ecu needs to match in terms of connector layout, (1 or 3 plugs) as well as software and ideally ecu version code. The ecu also has to be 'paired' with the BSI and ignition key transponder.

The swap would be a whole lot simpler if you had a scrap 110 donor car for all the odds and ends, even then the final result won't match up to your 2.2 as it was.

Another option would be to look for a replacement 2.2 from something else, (Peugeot 807. 605 407 4007 508 RCZ some vans, taxis Citroen C5 C6, C8 C- Crosser vans etc, possibly some Fiat vans, (maybe even a later Mondeo or Land Rover but be careful as most have genuine Ford scrap under the bonnet). Alternate versions of the 2.2 often have different tuning for more torque at low speeds and less top end power or twin-turbo setups like the C5/407 which also have different injectors/fuel system, but the basic lump is probably the same.

Hope you find a workable solution, keep us posted on progress.

At least it's summer where you are.

hey Doggy, thanks for all the useful info!

Motor is snacking on far too much oil and makes quite an impressive smokescreen under hard acceleration! I am worried it will soon decide to run on the oil rather than diesel and nuke itself...

I have a complete scrap 406 2.0hdi wrecked car but auto. (very few manuals here in NZ) so have all the BSI, key, ecu etc. I have also managed to convert an auto 406hdi to manual and figured out all the tricks to wiring, ecu, bsi to make all systems including cruise to work and stopped it complaining that the auto box was faulty/m.i.a... took me ages to figure it all out so can use that knowledge to sort out any issues with using the auto ecu/bsi.

I did look into using a later 2.0hdi out of a 407 (also auto) but soon found the bellhousings (auto 406, auto 407) do not match (have both varieties here). They could be adapted but far too much hassle. I also dont know of any 2.2hdi's here in NZ, think only the 2.0 was imported here. I also only know of one manual 2.0hdi 407 here and that was a UK import, not NZ new. Seems only auto 407hdi's were sold here..?

Reason I asked about whether the 2.2 406hdi gearbox would bolt straight up to the 2.0hdi' motor is a fuzzy memory that someone had stated some considerable time ago on one or another forum that a 2.2 gearbox would not bolt up to a 2.0hdi motor.. but cannot find it despite an extensive search so thought I might have been having a senior moment again Better to ask again.

Making flywheels/clutches/gear linkages work does not worry me, just cant be bothered trying to bolt up a non compatible gearbox/motor setup. So just hoping it might be simple..

I looked into similar stuff before fitting a 6-speed manual box from a Citroen C5 to my last 406. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19725&hilit=gearbox

The bell housing is just bolted onto the input end of the gearbox, i.e. your main gearbox casing and internals will fit either engine with the right bell housing. I think any manual 406 with an ML5T/ML5C 'box would have the bit you need, (or the equivalent Citroen C5 built up to around 2005, if you get them over there).

Regarding the 2.2 oil consumption, you could have a turbo seal problem but I've no idea how you would check.
Maybe it's possible to:
- ensure the turbo actuator is in the bypass position, (allowing exhaust to flow around the turbine blades)
- disconnect the turbo - intercooler pipework
- stop it spinning (put a rag or similar in the intake side)?
- disconnect / plug the turbo oil supply
- run engine stationary to see if it still burns oil

There well be a known, proven, safer technique for the above, (which is just me guessing, so treat with deep suspicion and appropriate caution).

edit - just remembered hearing the 2.0 407 HDi also has a bigger flywheel/clutch than the 406 - it might be the same as a 2.2 406, but don't know how to check since they buggered up ServiceBox

When I first got the car, one of MANY issues was a lack of boost. I removed the turbo and found the variable vane system was jammed with carbon. While I had it out I did check it for leakage and found nothing significant. However, it is probably worth revisiting this again as it could have failed after replacing the turbo. Not easy to remove but beats trying to overhaul the motor in these trying times if it does prove faulty..

It's got to be worth a try.
Also worth eliminating excess crankcase/cambox breather oil carry over while you're at it.

Hope you find the engine is OK.