406oc.co.uk

As you may of previously read here... viewtopic.php?t=2690 my car had a few problems so I decided to swap the engine with a known working one I got from a scrappie. My first question is...

My engine was a DHX model XUD9TE and this new engine is a DHY model XUD9TE. Now they look identical and have all the same connections so will it work ok? Or will I have to swap somesensors across or something?

Next question... Now Jameslxdt has already mentioned that to get around the immobiliser, I can just drill out the stop solinoid shield and supply a switched power feed to it... If I wanted to keep the keypad immobiliser, is it not just a case of swapping the pumps over?

How much gearbox oil does the gearbox take?

I'm changing the clutch, timing belt and tensioners, and waterpump while its out. Oh and the glowplugs. Any other useful things to change while I have awesome access?

Oh and if anyone is on here right now, what are the driveshafts like for removing? I'm going to take them out now (well attempt anyway) and any advice is greatly appreciated!!!!!

I'm sure I will add more questions over the next couple days while I remove the old engine and attempt to get the new one to work!


Cheers,

Rob

right where to start, the DHY engine is NOT a good engine, it is notorious for throwing conrods through the block, no one is quite sure why, but the general conclusion is the egr system causes a too high combustion temperature, i think its just a poorly made engine as all the other XUD9TE/F etc..

the engine will be a straight swap but the problem is that the 406 DHX engine uses semi-electronic injection, so you will need to transfer the pump, the injectors, fuel lines and the thermostat housing (depending on if either engine had A/c)


the BE/3 gearbox takes 2 litres of 75w80

and finally the n/s driveshaft is easy to get out, the o/s is a pig as trying to undo the offset-head bolts holding the driveshaft to the intermediate bearing take an age to undo, you'll need a 3/8 ratchet a very deep 11m socket and a hell of a lot of patience

It might be a DHX engine then as the diesel pump, injectors ect all look identical.

I just assumed it was the DHY as it was from an R reg.

One more question... If I swap the fuel pump over, will that negate the need to disable the immobiliser?
I'm guessing to keep it all simple, just lock both engines at top dead centre, lock the pumps off and then swap the pumps and the timing should be right?

I didn't do the driveshafts in the end to day. My 1/2 drive socket set only goes up to 32mm. Got a friend of the family round tomorrow with his tools and he is going to help me

Cheers James,

You are like an oracle on these engines!!!

One more query...whats the best way to get the down pipe bolts off? I can just get a socket on them but I'm guessing there is a nut on the other side that needs to be locked off as they just spin and spin!

Oh and another final query, Haynes says the engine will come out the top fine but it looks a tight squeeze...are they lying or is there some strange manouvering that needs to be done?

Just realised I'm an absolute tool!!!!!!!! The VIN number from the car the new engine came is VF38BDHXE********* DHX is bloody staring at me!!!!

So yes the engines are identical...

If I swap the fuel pumps over do I keep my immobiliser? (I also want to chnage it as it looks like it has alot more life left in it than the one on the new engine!)

Well new clutch went in... only to find the old one is in great condition so the old one is off to ebay! Going to do the timing belt, waterpump and tensioners later on

dont swap the pumps, take them off each engine, and make sure you know which one belongs to each engine, then drill out the stop solenoid shield on each pump, you will find a small electronic box between the wiring looom and stop solenoid, this is you coded module, swap this over between the pumps and then refit

now as for the downpipe, you need a short 10mm spanner to hold the nuts on the turbo side, and then a deep 10mm socket with a 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet on the downpipe side, access is very tight, but once you've got your arms wedged in there its quite easy

the easiest way to get the engine out is to remove, the headlights, front bumper, the slam panel, cooling fans, rad, intercooler, and a/c condenser, then use your crane and take up the slack of the engine, undo the top engine mount, then the gearbox mount, pull the engine so its vertical, not inclined to the bulkhead, then undo the bottom mount then pull the engine out forwards

Will the engine/gearbox come out ok without taking the bumper ect off? I Guess it's only an hour or so work to take the bumper ect off.

Also just doing my timing (piece of piss with the engine out ) where can I buy the massive M8 bolts I need to lock off fuel pump ect?

Cheers,

Rob

you can get it all out without taking the gearbox out and removing the bumper, but it has to come out at the cambelt end at about 70 degrees, its not very wise, plus its so much easier to line the engine up with the mounts if you come in from the front rather than the side at an angle
the timing kit you can buy from any motorfactors, i got mine from maccess for about £4, but this is a trade only store, you can get it from halfrauds, but they want too much money, if it says rover, renault or citroen on it its still the right one as long as its for an XUD7/9 engine
you should get 4 m8 bolts, the flywheel angle pin and the crankshaft pin

Well I want to bring the gearbox out with it so I can put it on the new engine easily rather than sruggling to get it lined up when putting the engine back in. I think I will see how it goes as is and if it looks like it ain't coming out, I will take the bumper ect off. I already have the radiator and intercooler out and all the battery tray and mounting loom and I reckon it might just squeeze out!!!

Worth a try anyway

Crankshaft pin? Haynes only mentions locking the flywheel end and then the fuel and camshaft wheels.

Where do I insert a crankshaft pin? Have got the crank shaft pulley off(what a bitch) after lining the engine up (well almost - enough to not need the pulley anymore) and was going to lock it all off tomorrow and get to work. If I do that stop solinoid thing tomorrow, I can remove the pump off my old engine (to get to the solinoid) without touching the belts right? I'm sure I read somewhere about locking the fuel pump wheel off and then removing the fuel pump with out it!

Cheers james,

You certainly know your stuff! You work at Volvo right? My last car was a 480 turbo (owned 6 480's in total - kept buying spares cars because volvo charge too much hehe and also bought a 740 for £26 on ebay which I sold on at profit!!) and I have a bit of a thing for volvos. I almost didnt get the 406 and almost bought a S40 but the first S40 diesels were archaic! If I can convince my girlfriend, my next car will probably be an S70 TDI but I can never find one with a manual stick for the right money...that and I should really be saving for a S60 D5 but thats along way off due to university. I just love the S60!!!

Anyway......enough of the volvo ranting

Rob

ahh yes, sorry, the XUD didnt have a hole in the crankshaft, the petrol XU did though

i personally hate the 480, and do not see what people like about them, there uncomfortable, ugly as fook, and slow, except for the turbo obviously, i also hate the S40, as it was based on the mitsubsihi carisma its not a volvo at all, and all the diesel S40/V40's are dog slow, even the ones with the renault common rail units are awful, now the S70 tdi is much muuuuuuuuch better, 2.5 5 pot VAG engine 140 bhp, could you ask for more, the only downside is the engine is very noisy and eats alternator belt tensioners, finding one in manual is easier in S70 form, ive only ever seen one manual tdi V70, oh one other bad thing is the clutch, its a right bugger to change
and as for the S60 D5, amazing, the engine was volvos first crack at the common rail diesel, any diesel infact, and they didnt do half bad, 163 bhp and enough torque to pull a train, and they improved in 2005, 180bhp and 0-60 in 6.9 seconds in the S60, the one bad thing with the S60 is the price, they are sooo damned expensive, but thats like any volvo, which is why i would never buy one, they cost far too much to keep on the road compared to the 406

The 480 is a bit like marmite (or teh C30's marketing campaign). I loved them but needed economy! A guy called Richard Pruen over on the 480owners forum mods the turbos ECU as well so for £80 he ups the power from 120BHP and lots of torque to 170BHP and double that already large amount of torque! He can do them more powerful but the 170BHP mod is still within the engines safety margin and TBH how it shoudl of come from the factory! I got rid of teh 480 because of lack of economy for my student budget and the fact I needed 5 seats to lug my housemates about it!

Yeh i reckon next car might be a 850/V70 TDI. I know the engines are great! As for the S60, yeh volvo really have done well with the diesel. Cue Waynnes world moment "it will be mine, oh yes it will be mine"!
Just have 2 more years at uni and then I get a job and some foolish bank will lend me some money for a D5

Ok well I went to a bolt shop and bought some M8 bolts for locking the timiung and then was in the process of cutting the head off one so it could be used to lock the flywheel and the bloody angle grinder ate the disc!!!! I only have masonry discs left so won't be doign the timing till tomorrow. Driveshafts it is then...

Ok so am I right in thinking that the drivers side driveshaft is in two pieces and I take the outer piece out and leave the inner piece to come out with the gearbox? It goes through what looks to be the lower mount and will come apart here. am I right in thinking once the offset bolts are out, that outer shaft just comes out and one bit stays with the gearbox?

I haven't got a clue about them TBH, It's just I have had a look and they seem fairly straight forward.

Also any tips for getting the gear linkages off the little ball joints? I got one off but the other two aren't budging. Any tips?

Oh and is the timing belt supposed to be marked? I have the new one but it doesn;t have any markings for running direction or a TDC mark like my old Volvo had.
Cheers,

Rob

Aswell as the questions above, I would also like to know how you remove the thensioner? I have a new one and have undone the bolts(after locking it out the way and removing the old belt ect) What I want to know is if I push the sprung tensioner thingy up so I can get the tensioner bearing off, will the sprung tension thingy pop out or is it only able to go so far? Haynes recommend a tool to hold it up in itself but I can't be arsed to get the angle grinder out again to cut some metal to shape and then bend it!!!

I probably didn't describe that well but I hope someone understands what I mean!

the offset-head bolts wont come out, undo the nuts, then push the bolt towards the driverside and turn it, the haynes manual explains it quite well, the drivers side driveshaft comes as one piece
the flywheel locking tool is impossible to make, if you see what one looks like then you will understand why
the cambelt cam be fitted anyway round, but whenever i do a cambelt, i make sure that the writing on it can be read if you look at it from the drivers side
as for the gear linkages, there's no easy way round it, when i did my clutch i broke two of them, so you might as well just buy the new ones as they will break if there that stuck

as for the tensioner, if you have undone the bolts and turned the tensioner anti-clockwise and then locked it by retightening the bolts remove the engine mounting from the block and then the spring can come out, then undo the other two bolts and remove the tensioner

Well I'm going to give the driveshafts a crack tomorrow. Think I will do the passengers side first, and then tackle the drivers side. Wish me luck