Bottom engine mount

[Foghorn Leghorn]

Ok, my bottom engine mount has given up (damned quitter!! )



I've got a new mount already, what I'd like to know is how easy is it to change?

Haynes reckons you need to remove the driveshaft to remove the whole assembly. Looking at it, all I need to do is remove the metal bracket bolted through the middle of it and thrash the little basket out with a drift, pop new fella in and jobs a good un. Can I do this or is there another reason I need to take the whole assembly off? (totally gay if I have to remove the driveshaft )

Fog

[philg]

I tried the way your planning to do it. It was a complete misson... although it seems to work for others it didnt work for me, possibly because the mount i bought was non-genuine.

After beating the christ outta it with a hammer and making a homemade puller device which bent itself to shite... then seriously beefed it up, and it still bent itself to shite.... i resorted to following the haynes manual.

That wasn't the end of my problems. When trying to remove the driveshaft you have to undo these 2 wee 10/11mm nuts that hold the driveshafts bearing in place. These, according to EVERYONE i asked were simple to loosen. Not for me. One of the nuts were complete seized on, it wouldnt budge. i tried so hard i rung the head off it, then i hammered on a smaller socket and rung that too!. I ended up having to remove the mounts bracket and driveshaft as one (another misson as its heald on by 4 bolts and 2 metal dowels) Then hammered on an impact socket which FINALLY got the nut off.

Took the new mount, and its bracket to my mechanic and i used the hydraulic press to push the new mount in in about 5seconds, no bother at all!

Next misson was to find a new nut to replace the managed one. Its an M7 nut, incredibly rare! after driving round a few places i stopped at a garage which converts normal cars to disability cars. He had 1 M7 nut (no inuendo intended). Misson successful.

Just of it is, i wish i hadda just removed he driveshaft at the start as i wasted so much time cutting the old mount out and attempting to fit the new one.

[Foghorn Leghorn]

I might pay someone.........

Fog

[missmouse]

mine has gone too! I have the new one (genuine) & am going to attempt it in situ!
Is this likely to be the cause of an engine vibration I am getting at no particular speed or gear?
Simon

[missmouse]

changed mine in situ this morning- easy out, pig to get back in!
Annoyingly the buzzing/vibration was still there. Finally traced it to the front exhaust mountings-- gave them a wee bend & all quiet!
just the a/c control unit to find now & I can start enjoying my car!

Simon

[Mutts]

Hi
On my 406 HDI the bracket to body is removable (bolted)
This is what I plan to do.
Get new bush
get local chappy with a lathe to machine a flat 10mm dia plate just smaller than bush diameter and a cup bigger than the bush diameter, with a hole big enuff for a 12mm High tensile bolt.
Use this to withdraw the bush and to insert the new one
Bolt the bracket back in place.
In the mean time, I have several pieces for calor gas hose wedge in place

Mutts

[carz]

Mutts,

Can you post a picture of the device you made to pop out and fit in the mount ?

[Mutts]

Hi Carz
I hope this attachement of the puller come through, if not email me on [email protected]
It is a rough drawing, so I will add a explanatione here
Part A, for extraction, only need to be about 0.5 smaller than the bush diameter
Part E for insertion, about 5mm BIGGER than the bush
I would suggest that the above be a minimum of 6mm thich to prevent bending.
The problem is that the steel reacts with alluminium, and almost bonds with steel.
Dont bash the ally. You could try a blow torch or hot air gun to GENTLY heat the ally & expand it a bit to break the bond/fit
Best done with the puller just tensioned.
Please note that I will ne be responsible for any possible miss-haps, earthquakes, spanner-rash etc.
Oh and also try a 12mm tension bolt
I recon with care this should work ok
Mutts