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still no haynes in post this morning! Do I need to worry about air locks when I put the new fuel filter in? (Bosch/HDi) I presume I just drain a little fuel off with the drain cock before I crank it open with a 19mm spanner and drop the new one in.. but how do I purge?

pondweed wrote: Do I need to worry about air locks when I put the new fuel filter in?

No. Self-priming

pondweed wrote:I presume I just drain a little fuel off with the drain cock

Yup.

pondweed wrote:crank it open with a 19mm spanner and drop the new one in

Ooo...good luck with that one (best to go get a new housing first)

pondweed wrote:but how do I purge?

Self priming just flip the key to ignition a few times until it stops gurgling and you hear a nice steady prime up from the in-tank pump. Don't crank the engine with an empty fuel bowl as it will damage the HP pump.

are you serious about changing the housing too?
should I do that too even if it doesnt break?!
presumably all the fuel pipe fittings are just pull back/click on

If you can do it without breaking then cool - don't replace it!

Most people break the housing trying to murder the stupid thing in a vice. The general opinion is to do yourself a huge favour and change the housing and filter. The housing is about £15.00 (I think). Make sure they go off your Chassis number because there are different ones if I remember.

The fuel fittings are press fit, you push something on the fitting to release it whilst applying some inward pressure to release the friction (although I've never tried this) You might want some rags etc to soak up any spills near the alternator and compressor.

The housings are quite expensive around £40-50 inc fitted new filter (for my 110 anyway).

I've changed the just the filter before and it isn't easy to remove and especially re-fit the lid. It required quite a lot of force, the filter housing is only secured by a plastic clip.

Last time i just got a new housing, because i didn't want to mess around with it again. I hoping next time i will be able to fit a new fitter to the old housing, then just swap housings.

If you do open the housing keep a eye open for metal shavings in the bottom as this will indicate your low pressure pump is duff.

lid was no more difficult than a "hard" jar of jam... hoorah. (not that I use a socket set on jam tops, though... but that sort of feel)
doesnt seem to leak afterwards either. thanks all

pondweed wrote:lid was no more difficult than a "hard" jar of jam... hoorah. thanks all

pondweed:


Me, and the others on here:

whats all this about a vice & the filter being a pain to change?
just stick a spanner on the hex at the top, turn a few degrees & hey presto! its off. Stick a new filter in, replace lid, pipes & off you go!

Words of warning: HDI 110, it's the knurled ring you turn auntyclockwise, as viewed from above, if you try to turn the top you will need a new housing as it's slotted into the bottom half and you will mangle it. Use an oil filter strap wrench, it's very tight!

I did mine the first time a few weeks back, I wasn't sure what to do, does the top unscrew or what? I'd left my trusty Haynes Book of Lies round my girlfriends so I had to guess. I guessed right as it turns out. Haynes just says unscrew, so I'm glad I didn't have it.

As it says on page 4: "No liability can be accepted..." etc etc.

Talking of fuel filters, how's the petrol one supposed to be held in? Mine's just in with a couple of zip ties...

Also next time, I *WILL* remember to get hold of some little clamps for the fuel hoses before I drown myself in half gallon of unleaded.

Has anyone got any hints for removing the petrol filter's connectors? You've got to press in a pair of 'buttons' either side of the connector but they're flush with the damn thing so it's a 30 minute job if you've got big (usually freezing cold) fingers...