406oc.co.uk

I know its not strictly a 406, but there seems to be quite a few very knowledgable people on here so though i wold post in the hope that someone might be able to help.

I have a peugeot 806 with a 2.0i 16v HDI engine (DW10ATED4) that suffered a siezed alternator which shredded the aux belt, which went under the cambelt cover, which wound round the lower crank pulley and made the cambelt slip

The car was doing about 20mph coming up to a roundabout at the time and i just dipped the clutch, coasted round and stopped, i havent attempted to restart the engine since, just in case by some miracle, i didnt do any damage!.

The troube i have now, is how to reset the timing because the crank and cam are in random positions and there doesnt appear to be any timing marks on the cam pulley that i can see ?, does anyone know the procedure for resetting the timing in this situation ?, i have the autodata procedure that is fine if the cam and crank are still in position, but dont know how to get started on this one ?

I was hoping to avoid removing the cam cover or head due to the top of the engine being inclined backwards and totally buried under the huge scuttle panel the 806 has.

Does anyone have any information that might help me out here ?

Thanks

Don't worry!

The cam shaft sprocket has a timing plate which will align with a timing hole in the head. You will not see this unless you get a mirror and look at the sprocket. Turn the sprocket until it is just past the 6 o'clock position and you will find the timing hole locate the cam shaft with an 8mm timing pin.

Now the tricky bit!

The timing hole for the crankshaft cannot be seen, it is an unassuming 8mm hole hidden behind the starter motor, offer up an 8mm timing pin to the hole whilst an assistant turns the crank shaft pulley bolt. Also to fit tne new timing belt you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley, you will need a locking tooth (Sealey do one for about £17 I think) remove the pulley before you fit the timing pin obviousley.

The Haynes manual for this engine goes into a bit of detail about it, may be worth getting one of those!

If it has bent the valves, you can get the head reconditioned, however after a previous bad experience of this, I would not dick about with that, just get a dw10 head from the breakers £100 should see you right!

Good luck!
DW

Thanks DW, thats jus the sort of description i needed.

Is the timing hole in the same place as the old TD engines ? (just under the starter motor), I have done quite a few belts on those and can find that hole without even looking now , and have the proper 8mm timing pin with a long handle on it

I will get my inspection mirror out and have a look for the cam timing hole, I have been told that i have to be careful not to get the timing 180 degrees out ?, is this possible ?, i would have thought that if the timing pins were in both the cam and crank, it is spot on ?

I already undid the crank nut, it was seriouslt tight !, used a 1000Ft/LB rattle gun on it in the end that i borrowed from a neighbour

cool, Got the crankshaft pinned with the 8mm pin, but there is definitly no timing hole in the cam pulley at all, just the usual 3 big gaps to see through it, it is marked with a C and a rotation direction arrow.

I wonder if i am supposed to remove one of the 3 mounting bolts and use that as the hole for locking it ? (wild guess!!)

Found the hole, I should have read your post more carefully, as it was a plate with a gap in it that is just behind the cam pulley just like you said that the 8mm peg goes through.

Got it all running, and there is a metallic tinkling noise like one of the valves is hitting the piston when i raise the revs to anything over 1200rpm, and on idle, it sounds like it is misfiring and it running generally rough, so i am pretty sure the head needs to come off for further inspection

Gotta work for the next 2 days, so that will have to wait until the weekend now.

Anyone know where the best (cheapest!) place to buy valve components is ?

take the rocker cover off and make sure none of the camshaft bearing caps arent broken, they are made in such a way as a fail safe to protect the valves in the event of belt failure/slip
make sure its not the crankshatf pulley making the metallic rattle

Thanks James, I will whip the cam cover off tomorrow if i get in early enough and snap some pictures, its apparently a twin cam head, but driven by only 1 cam pulley ?, i am guessing that there is a gear or chain drive linking the two at the other end ?, I guess i will know once i have taken it apart.

I dont think the camshaft pulley is failing as it is the 3 slot one which apparently is more reliable, and i was running the engine without the aux belt on tonight as my alternator has siezed

what year is it?
only the very late 2.0 HDi 136 has 16 valves, the 2.2 HDi has 16 valves also, but the 2.0 HDi 110 is 8 valve single cam

Its a 2002 model, the last of the 806's that were made, its definitly a 16v engine though, If i put my chassis number into my copy of autodata, it tells me it that it is a DW10ATED4 and its the 4 on the end of the number that denotes 4 valves per cylinder apparently.

I've only just got home due to the M1 being shut for most of the day up at J30 and got stuck in the jam, but am not working tomorrow now, so will whip the cam cover off and see what i can see

whats the 6th ,7th , and 8th digit of your vin no?

jameslxdt wrote:whats the 6th ,7th , and 8th digit of your vin no?

RHW

Little bit of a delay in doing any work on my car !!! , but i am going to get the rocker covers off this afternoon and assess the damage, I am planning on replacing any damaged rockers, then doing a compression test on the cylinders to look for posible valve damage as well

Ian wrote:I have a peugeot 806 with a 2.0i 16v HDI engine (DW10ATED4) that suffered a siezed alternator which shredded the aux belt, which went under the cambelt cover, which wound round the lower crank pulley and made the cambelt slip

Had similar thing happen to me (fan belt roller fault), in the end it was 2 valves, 4 followers, new cam, head skim....... cost me a fortune because i took it to the garage as i thought it just need a new fan belt! be interest to know how you get on...

Didnt do so well today, I removed all the bolts that hold the plastic rocker cover on, and that was it !, i couldnt get the rocker cover off, it lifts up about half an inch and gets stuck, there is nothing visibly stopping it lifting off that i can see on the outside, so am thinking that it is something on the inside that is stopping it ?, trouble is that on the 806, you have such limited clearance due to the angle of the engine (tilted backwards) and the fact that the engine in buried deep under the widscreen huge scuttle, that you simply cant see what you are doing, once i have that off, i will have another 3 inches of clearance above the engine, so am hoping that it will be a little easier to remove the camshaft holder bit.

Will let you know how i get on

the breather pipe on the right hand side as you look at the engine gets stuck
also if i remember rightly you have to remove the top timing belt cover