ecu removal

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alan forbes
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ecu removal

Post by alan forbes »

does anyone know if there is a correct/ incorrect way to remove & refit an ecu, eg do you have to disconect the battery first ?
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mjb
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Re: ecu removal

Post by mjb »

No, just unplug it...
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muffindell
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Re: ecu removal

Post by muffindell »

Does that mean that the ecu is only active with ignition on?
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steve_earwig
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Re: ecu removal

Post by steve_earwig »

Doesn't that depend on which ecu it is? Haynes would say diconnect the battery, you can't go far wrong with that. I'd guess it'd be an idea to leave it a while too so any stored charge gets a chance to dissipate.
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teamster1975
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Re: ecu removal

Post by teamster1975 »

I agree Steve. I wouldn't fancy the chance of a connector arcing as it's unplugged :shock:
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there :(
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X

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mjb
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Re: ecu removal

Post by mjb »

teamster1975 wrote:I agree Steve. I wouldn't fancy the chance of a connector arcing as it's unplugged :shock:
If memory serves, it takes a potential difference of around 3000V to arc just 1mm through air. Given we're talking about connectors which normally live together I can't see there being any problem with removal. You COULD cause a static discharge of such voltage on insertion though if you manage to avoid touching the bodywork with the ECU in your hands, but the chances of that are realistically pretty slim.

If you're really worried, disconnecting the battery for half hour will help, but you'd still need to take the precaution of touching the bodywork (and ECU case at the same time) before connecting the new ECU as a car sitting on rubber wheels is still effectively a large capacitor :)
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
teamster1975
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Re: ecu removal

Post by teamster1975 »

mjb wrote:If you're really worried, disconnecting the battery for half hour will help, but you'd still need to take the precaution of touching the bodywork (and ECU case at the same time) before connecting the new ECU as a car sitting on rubber wheels is still effectively a large capacitor
Oh the memories of college and blowing up capacitors! :lol:
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there :(
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X

"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
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steve_earwig
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Re: ecu removal

Post by steve_earwig »

mjb wrote:If memory serves, it takes a potential difference of around 3000V to arc just 1mm through air. Given we're talking about connectors which normally live together I can't see there being any problem with removal. You COULD cause a static discharge of such voltage on insertion though if you manage to avoid touching the bodywork with the ECU in your hands, but the chances of that are realistically pretty slim.
Zap! Depends on all sorts of things, moisture, humidity, corrosion etc. etc. etc. I know the big capacitors we used to leave on the end of phone lines for testing could give you one hell of a shock and that's only 50 volts, I was just playing it safe. Besides, it wasn't specified what ecu, how about the airbag?

How about using an earth strap? They used to bang on all the time at work about "soft zapping", i.e. giving something a severe jolt of static that didn't kill it straight off but seriously reduced its lifespan, taking into account the amount of ecus on these cars that display a marked propensity to go pop all the time do we really want to give them more excuses? *dons tin foil hat*
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007

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