406oc.co.uk

Hi,
The pug has just decided after a long run to dump water from the header tank overflow. Noticed it was pretty sludged up with brown sh*t so have flushed the system out with a hose, checked the thermostat which opens okay in boiling water, checked the fans are coming on okay around 82c. Used a funnel and filled up correctly opening all bleed caps so shouldnt be any air in the system. Doesnt seem to be overpressurising as top hose isnt going hard but it just seems to trickle water out the overflow every time the fans kick in and then when turn engine off after getting warm it dumps loads of water? Any chance this could be the header cap or am i looking at head gasket troubles?

Cheers

From my personal experience...head gasket, gases getting in the cooling system. Get it tested, are you overheating yet?

Underpressure wrote:...when turn engine off after getting warm it dumps loads of water...

Try a new cap first.

Are you sure you're not putting to much coolant in the header tank - leaving it nowhere to expand?

I did this and the cap spewed out the water it didn't like.

I'd agree with all these answers, firstly top up engine first thing in morning when cold and secondly change cap. I assume that the radiator has good flow? Usually when the head gasket is going you loose water through the exhaust (white smoke), power may or may not be down at this stage, but think of all that lovely water flushing your cylinders clean, with no oil to lube the rings Leaving this too long will mean at the least on cylinder will need a new liner and piston. Most water related problems and to that matter gasket failures are due to the fact that the antifreeze has not been change religiously every 2 years/24,000miles (whichever is sooner), corrosion starts and that's the beginning of the end. Antifreeze is not just what it says on the tin, it lubes and prevents corrosion of the system and it's that component which is used up over time that stops most of these problems in the first place.

muffindell wrote:Most water related problems and to that matter gasket failures are due to the fact that the antifreeze has not been change religiously every 2 years/24,000miles (whichever is sooner), corrosion starts and that's the beginning of the end. Antifreeze is not just what it says on the tin, it lubes and prevents corrosion of the system and it's that component which is used up over time that stops most of these problems in the first place.

Well said muffy!

Thanks Welly, I have my moments

Just got a new rad cap and the springs a lot softer than the old one so ill give it a shot and keep you posted.

Well guys, Thats done the trick. New cap on filled up from cold ensuring no air in system with the bleed screws. Ran the car up with cap off untill the stat opened. Toped back up with water and then new cap on. Car gets up to 82ish C and the fans come on drops to about 70c and then back up and no leakage from the overflow. SORTED!

Just need to get the Turbo working now! Any ideas? Definitly not boosting just running like a normal 2.0 liter. Checked the waste gate actuator rod and it was seized, freed it off with wd so i could operate by hand and still nothing. I can hold the intake pipe to the intercooler and rev and feel a slight bit of pressure but nothing much. Noticed the Vacuum electronic valve has been glued up and repaired in the past so doubt that is working? Could this cause problems? I have read posts about the MAF/AFM? Air Mass Meter? For the life of me i cant find it. Doesnt seem to be on any of the intake side. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Excellent result!!

Re. turbo, obviously check all relevant pipe work is attached and tight, they can pop off, also check small pipes haven't collapsed causing obstruction. Have you changed you air and fuel filter recently? A blocked fuel filter will cause a fuel starvation problem with resulting lack of power. The MAF is the rectangular box thing after the air filter, if this isn't working correctly you will get a fuelling problem. They do die over time since the wire within is heated to red hot each time the ignition is turned off (so a bit like ye olde electric light bulb).

Slap me if I'm wrong but I thought the 2.0T had no AFM - rather it uses a more superior MAP sensor on the inlet manifold.

Okay, I have checked all hoses and they are all tight apart from the one near this valve which i have shown in the pic bellow. Also shown pics of the airfilter etc as i still cannot find the MAF, Sorry for the ignorance. Sure its not down the back of the engine as that air pipe from the filter goes straight into the turbo?? Good idea about the fuel filter as this hasnt been changed but would this decrease performance of the engine generally, Turbo should still boost?
cheers

Cheers for the info Welton, Does this sensor also fail is it something i can check or clean etc?

If there isn't enough fuel going into the engine, it won't matter how much boost you have and if you have no fuel in the engine it's just not going to perform very well! Anyway, it's just a thought that wont cost much to put right.

Okay cheers, Ill get a replacement fuel filter and see if i get any results, is the main filter the one at the rear offside, about the size of a tin of beans or is the small on in the engine bay on the incoming fuel line also a filter? Does anybody have any idea what that valve does on the pic in my previous post? Would this stop the turbo from boosting?

Cheers