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Peugeot 406 1.9TD

Morning,

My clutch is giving up the ghost

I'm considering doing it myself but wanted to know form anyone first hand roughly how long it will take and what other bits I may need (not inc clutch itself).

Thanks

Short answer dunno!
But a few years ago a friend and I replaced a clutch on an old 309 1.8 petrol.
Passenger side wheel off, drive shafts out, split the engine and bellhousing to get to the clutch.
If I remember rightly the clutch plate was held on to the flywheel by 6 bolts.

This was done in 3 autumn evenings until it got too dark.

Hi
I think the 1.9 TD is more or less the same as my HDI110 clutch except I understand it is a standard flywheel not a dual Mass. The dual mass has a different arrangement in that the diaphragm is a pull off instead of a push off. Getting to the clutch is much the same with all the transverse engines. Just a few points to watch; when you have removed the mounting make sure you don't jack up the engine too much as you will damage the exhaust flex coupling. When you disconnect the lower suspension strut just twist it to make sure the top bearing is free - they seize up and it is an opportunity to replace it if so. Also, if the Turbo is leaking oil it is also an opportunity to change it since you are half way there in terms of work done and you will regret not doing it later. Regardless of what clutch type it is, change the plate,cover and release bearing and if it is a DMass flywheel, change that as well. Replace the lower strut ball joint nut with a new one. Check the drive shaft oil seals for leakage and replace if leaking. Otherwise it's a doddle if there are no seized nuts and bolts and will take about 4 -5 hours.

Longintooth wrote:Replace the lower strut ball joint nut with a new one.

I've been wondering about that, Haynes pretty much change every nut and bolt whenever you change it and I doubt the guy who change my springs, dampers and top bearings bothered, how crucial is it?

Hi Steve
Well don't lose any sleep over it but keep an eye on the lower strut nut and bolt. The precaution is that the threads stretch when a nut and bolt is worked also the nut may lose it's edges and slip when tightening and the shaft of the bolt is liable to chafe if it has been a bit loose and since you can't take chances where failure could be a disaster as in this case it's a low cost healthy precaution. Just get a new one and replace it for piece of mind - with the correct grade of nut and bolt stamped on the bolt head.

Thanks for all your replies, I'm gonna give it a go next weekend.

Best of luck! These days I'm finding taking loads of pics as I go is a good way of avoiding those "now where the f*ck did that go?!" moments

Longintooth wrote:Hi Steve
Well don't lose any sleep over it but keep an eye on the lower strut nut and bolt. The precaution is that the threads stretch when a nut and bolt is worked also the nut may lose it's edges and slip when tightening and the shaft of the bolt is liable to chafe if it has been a bit loose and since you can't take chances where failure could be a disaster as in this case it's a low cost healthy precaution. Just get a new one and replace it for piece of mind - with the correct grade of nut and bolt stamped on the bolt head.

Thanks for that! Now I'm wondering if I can read the grade off a bolt head so I can buy them from the local hardwear store, rather than get ripped off by Pug again.

When I think of the amount of times I had the suspension in bits on my Avengers and I never changed anything