406oc.co.uk

New year here, new worries, been out today changing front foglight bulb-velly velly cold! Anyway, having checked on how to change said bulb in Haynes, found what was fitted to my car was quite diferent, no matter got it changed ok. MOT due on Tues next. Now to point of post-what is the best way to change a fuel filter on one of these? Haynes suggests renewing just the element, but on other forums Ive looked at (redirected there from parts sites honest!) there seems to be a school of thought that it is most unwise to dismantle the whole unit just to change the element-they recommend replacing the whole unit to avoid any dirt migrating to the HP pump which naturally isn't healthy for the pump. I'm sure all you brave types have changed a fuel filter before so what do you recommend? Given that Haynes doesn't always get it right, I'm very unsure how to proceed. Very nervous, afraid of the dark, an empty wallet, terrified of receiving my forthcoming electricity bill. Apart from these little concerns quite happy really!
Hope you are all ok and surviving well,
Wrinkly57

Depends which filter housing your HDi has.If it's got the type with a screw top, the housing is more than £50 to buy, it includes the filter.

To change these type, you have to unscrew the filter housing top, it's usually very tight and can easily get broken if you are not careful, the pipes get broken off easily.The best way to unscrew the top, is to take the housing off and put it (carefully) in a vice and unscrew the top with large pipe grips or an oil filter wrench.

My HDi has the screw top, you have to bleed the fuel system afterwards if yours does not have the high pressure pump, mine has a plastic hand pump on the top of the engine which has to be maually pumped to pump fuel through and purge the air out.On mine, it pays to point the car facing downhill to help the fuel flow to the filter.Mine is a 2001 90.

There are a couple of different filters fitted, one with a small hole either end, about 12mm, and one with a larger hole, twice the size.

Many thanks Jasper5 for the info. Will take top cover off tomorrow and have a peep to see which one is fitted.My car is
a 1999 2.0 110. Might struggle for a hill round here though because it's quite flat but I do have some ramps!
when job done will post again with results.
Ta,
Wrinkly57

I just remembered, the last 110 of that year that I changed the fuel filter on, had a nut on the top of the fuel filter housing, unscrewing the nut 90 degrees
releases the top of the housing.
Inside the housing on top of the filter was a metal ring....A spring....this goes back on when the new filter is fitted.Refit the top by screwing the lid back 90 degrees, ie, like your oil filler cap.

This type is pressurised and does not require bleeding.Check that the housing is sealed properly by turning on the ignition and watching for leaks.

Take all proper care when working on the fuel system.

Many thanks jasper5 you are a star! Feel happier now to have a go without needing the services of our local
hospital after a heart attack!
Thanks once again
Wrinkly57

Just remember to fill the housing with diesel once the new filter is in. You'll put a fair strain on your battery turning the engine over enough to pump enough diesel into it. Has been known to flatten batteries

That's my tuppence worth.

Good luck!!

Cookies

Never heard of a hand primer on a HDi before, although the '90' did come in two flavours..a Bosch system and a Siemens system so who knows.

Your 2000 HDi 110 will self prime with only 4 or 5 turns of the key (not engine cranking) you will hear lots of gurgling/sloshing until it's full

Thanks Wellie!!

that might have happened on older pre hdi diesels. (if there was a smilie for 'fingers crossed' i'd be clicking it several times!!)

Cookies

Welton wrote:Never heard of a hand primer on a HDi before, although the '90' did come in two flavours..a Bosch system and a Siemens system so who knows.

Your 2000 HDi 110 will self prime with only 4 or 5 turns of the key (not engine cranking) you will hear lots of gurgling/sloshing until it's full

I must admit, I was very surprised to find a hand primer on my 406 HDi, I have only ever seen the electric pump on previous HDi I have worked on.

I look after a fleet of HDI Expert vans, every HDi I have done has only needed the ignition left on until the filter housing is full, I've never needed to turn the key 4 or 5 times.It isn't neccessary to fill the housing with diesel, but I like to put injection cleaner inside when I change the filter, gives the system a good clean.

On some HDi's the LP pump will only run for about 10 seconds unless you crank the engine. I think Welly's suggesting you may need to do this a few times to fill an empty filter, no point cranking it until the bowl's full.

Many thanks all of you, get the car back tomorrow from the garage after MOT failure (£300 worth) so will try to sort out rest of service items soon.

Very grateful for all of your input,
Wrinkly57

First time round, I broke my fuel filter housing trying to undo it. That cost £52 with a filter inside.

Then the last time (last week), I managed to undo the filter housing without breaking it, and it cost me £8 for a filter. I just popped in the new one, primed the system by turning the key on and off 4 times, then it started as if I'd never opened the bonnet.

Mine's a 2.2 HDi. I'd do the same every time, to save over £40 odd.