406oc.co.uk

Hi,

Posted a quick Hi in the welcome section - now cant find my post. Oh well ....

Just bought the Mrs a 1997 406 2.0T Petrol Executive for not too much money.

One issue I have is with the boot lock. No matter what key position I try - it doesnt lock, not manually or with the central locking. I didnt have time to fiddle and remove the covers to see whats going on. Any ideas?

Ive also tried the 'master key' and turned the lock completly in circles trying to find a position that locks.

Lastly - fairly impressed with this car - not bad at all. Need to get used to controls and such and find out what a certain rattle is - thinking its something todo with the exhaust, only happens around 2300 rpm when the engine revs decrease and go through that rev range.

Does the key just spin freely in the boot lock?
I've had this happen on the doors, spray a load of WD inside the locks, this usually sorts it (assuming the boot lock wasn't changed before you bought it and you don't have the right key! )

Chaz wrote:Just bought the Mrs a 1997 406 2.0T Petrol Executive for not too much money.

Very good choice of car. Saloon or estate?

One issue I have is with the boot lock. No matter what key position I try - it doesnt lock, not manually or with the central locking. I didnt have time to fiddle and remove the covers to see whats going on. Any ideas?

If it's not closing by the central locking, I'd suggest a dodgy lock. Best to get it fixed before some scrote gives it a try and nicks the car as a result

find out what a certain rattle is - thinking its something todo with the exhaust, only happens around 2300 rpm when the engine revs decrease and go through that rev range.

Is it only when revs decrease? If so it could be the lower engine mount. Not an easy DIY job!

mjb wrote:

Chaz wrote:Just bought the Mrs a 1997 406 2.0T Petrol Executive for not too much money.

Very good choice of car. Saloon or estate?

Saloon

One issue I have is with the boot lock. No matter what key position I try - it doesnt lock, not manually or with the central locking. I didnt have time to fiddle and remove the covers to see whats going on. Any ideas?

If it's not closing by the central locking, I'd suggest a dodgy lock. Best to get it fixed before some scrote gives it a try and nicks the car as a result

Ye, keen to get it sorted asap. Will start to fiddle on the weekend. Ive locked the backrests - at least I think I have so someone shouldnt be able to get in that easily.

find out what a certain rattle is - thinking its something todo with the exhaust, only happens around 2300 rpm when the engine revs decrease and go through that rev range.

Is it only when revs decrease? If so it could be the lower engine mount. Not an easy DIY job!

Yes, only with rev decrease from my limited driving of the car. Any idea of the cost and how difficult to do? You say not easy - perhaps give it a score out of 5 or 10? Done a fair bit of car DIY but certainly not 'magic fingers' - lol.

Chaz wrote:

mjb wrote:Is it only when revs decrease? If so it could be the lower engine mount. Not an easy DIY job!

Yes, only with rev decrease from my limited driving of the car. Any idea of the cost and how difficult to do? You say not easy - perhaps give it a score out of 5 or 10? Done a fair bit of car DIY but certainly not 'magic fingers' - lol.

Firstly it's impossible to replace the rubber bush without a press, so the DIYer needs to fork out a lot more for the bush+carrier. Then to change it you need to pull the driveshaft out.

mjb wrote:

Chaz wrote:

mjb wrote:Is it only when revs decrease? If so it could be the lower engine mount. Not an easy DIY job!

Yes, only with rev decrease from my limited driving of the car. Any idea of the cost and how difficult to do? You say not easy - perhaps give it a score out of 5 or 10? Done a fair bit of car DIY but certainly not 'magic fingers' - lol.

Firstly it's impossible to replace the rubber bush without a press, so the DIYer needs to fork out a lot more for the bush+carrier. Then to change it you need to pull the driveshaft out.

Crap. Oh well.

Easiest way to check - perhaps jack the car and lower while keeping the engine on a stand to see if the engine mounting is split?

Chaz wrote:Easiest way to check - perhaps jack the car and lower while keeping the engine on a stand to see if the engine mounting is split?

Rubber's funny stuff. It can look awful but be fine, or look ok but be useless. You should be able to see it fine by just jacking the car up, it'll be just behind the sump.

teamster1975 wrote:Does the key just spin freely in the boot lock?
I've had this happen on the doors, spray a load of WD inside the locks, this usually sorts it (assuming the boot lock wasn't changed before you bought it and you don't have the right key! )

Sorry, hadnt seen your post.

The 'master key' can rotate 360 degrees, without any stop apart from a 'click' when it reaches a certain position. With the keys with fobs / alarms, there is a top and bottom end point where the keys rotate or return from.

Ive seen, this morning, lots of signs of corrosion on places like the door arms (the ones that stop it from going too far) so it might need some WD40 or similar. I also seem to have a noisy wheel bearing and a dodgy speedo / cable - so lots to look at over the weekend.

Otherwise fairly happy with the car - hoping I can get these items fixed without too much hassle / cost.

OK, did some checking on the car.

Bootlock issue - the actuator has failed.I could get it to work - but not realiably. Once I removed it they key allowed the unit to lock - it wasnt allowing it before cos the actuator was seiged in place.

The sound from the engine bay is an engine mount - but its not the bottom one. Its the one at the top left looking at the car when the bonnet open. There is a large rubber unit with an arm that goes back towards the firewall. The large rubber seems OK, so too the one above it and it seems the far point closes to the firewall has failed.I could clearly see travel when moving the engine by hand. Can this rubber / smaller unit / arm be replaced on its own?

Also - the middle box has a leak. How loud / legal will the car be if I remove this and put in a piece of pipe? Will it pass emmisions?

Finally - the damn jack is faulty - the plastic unit that is supposed to lift the arm up as you turn is stripped. Just replace the jack? Any halfords that are similar or just look for one on ebay or similar?

Thanks.

I dont think thats the exact mount im referring too - thats for HDI but looks similar.

Nevermind - this is the right one - clearly a single piece. Its the rubber at the smaller one thats gone.

There's usually a lot of movement round there. The mount on my old tubby went and I ended up spending hundreds replacing each part bit by bit until out of desperation I replaced the bit that looked fine and wasn't moving - the pear-shaped bit. Solved my problem, however that mount only tends to vibrate on acceleration.

mjb wrote:There's usually a lot of movement round there. The mount on my old tubby went and I ended up spending hundreds replacing each part bit by bit until out of desperation I replaced the bit that looked fine and wasn't moving - the pear-shaped bit. Solved my problem, however that mount only tends to vibrate on acceleration.

I can get that part I showed above, plus the pear shaped but for 35 GBP on ebay, so probably just going to get both and replace. Im sure its the smaller end of the top one - can see lots of movement.