Hello
I am about to get together everything for a timing belt change on my 2003 D9 110 HDi. Its done about 54k miles so is a little early but nevermind. The aux belt has been done but my questions are as follows....
The crankshaft pulley is probably original should I change this as a matter of course or just have a look when doing the timing belt and make a decision then?
I will be doing the idle and tensioner pulleys for the timing and aux belt plus the water pump. is there anything else I should do at the same time? all appears to be ok but I read elswhere on these boards that the right hand top engine mount is also prone to failure so should I do this too?
I havent got the tool for measuring the SEEM units when tensioning up so will aim do it like all my other cam belts on ther cars that I have done and get the longest run of straight belt just tight enough that I can turn it 90°.. is this about right? (after doing the engine rotations as per haynes)
I have the usual sockets, spanners and torque wrench but no locking tools or pins for the pulleys so should I buy them or can you advise on what size and length bolts I should use? Any links to a good tool supplier would be really helpful!
Finally are there any great difficulties in attempting to do this myself or should I leave it to my local garage to do it?
I have access to a medium sized air compressor at work so can invest in an air hammer for the crankshaft pulley bolt so hopefully that should deal with that plus any suspension links etc I have to do in the future too.
Cheers Al
timing belt change?
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Re: timing belt change?
Not done one myself but sounds like you are on the right track except
i would leave it as they dont need to be changed until 96k so you got another
40k to go
i would leave it as they dont need to be changed until 96k so you got another
40k to go
.. ooh are those drugs for me Matron
Re: timing belt change?
Cheers puggy
Re: timing belt change?
Hi,
Seen your post this morning. I have just done my own belt, W/pump & pulley.(52 plate hdi 90) You can buy a flywheel lock of ebay to shift the crank bolt, just move the plate at the bottom of the gearbox to use it. You will need two 8mm drill bits to lock the engine, the first goes into the camshaft at 8 o'clock and the second goes into the flywheel form a hole behind the starter motor. Move the starter to do this, just pull it back no need to disconnect wiring. To line the holes put camshaft pin in first replace crank bolt and get someone to rock crank to and fro while you press the 8mm drill bit through the flywheel. You will feel it click into place. Mark the crank sprocket (not pulley) with tipex plus cam wheel to check marks for line up. Feel the tension of the old belt before you pull it, always check on the longest run.
Replace the w/pump while in and also go for a new pulley. Turn the engine through two crank turns (one cam turn 360) use the tipex marks to do this, check your drill bits go back in, if they do and your marks line the jobs done.
There is a very awkward 10mm bolt in the top cover between the engine and bulkhead, just pull the rubber pipe back to get at it, you don't need to put it back in. Locktite crank bolt and smear thin bead of silicone gasket on W/pump.
I found it relatively easy but I have done lots of belts.
Hope you get on alright it will save you a lot of money.
Regards,
Rob.
Seen your post this morning. I have just done my own belt, W/pump & pulley.(52 plate hdi 90) You can buy a flywheel lock of ebay to shift the crank bolt, just move the plate at the bottom of the gearbox to use it. You will need two 8mm drill bits to lock the engine, the first goes into the camshaft at 8 o'clock and the second goes into the flywheel form a hole behind the starter motor. Move the starter to do this, just pull it back no need to disconnect wiring. To line the holes put camshaft pin in first replace crank bolt and get someone to rock crank to and fro while you press the 8mm drill bit through the flywheel. You will feel it click into place. Mark the crank sprocket (not pulley) with tipex plus cam wheel to check marks for line up. Feel the tension of the old belt before you pull it, always check on the longest run.
Replace the w/pump while in and also go for a new pulley. Turn the engine through two crank turns (one cam turn 360) use the tipex marks to do this, check your drill bits go back in, if they do and your marks line the jobs done.
There is a very awkward 10mm bolt in the top cover between the engine and bulkhead, just pull the rubber pipe back to get at it, you don't need to put it back in. Locktite crank bolt and smear thin bead of silicone gasket on W/pump.
I found it relatively easy but I have done lots of belts.
Hope you get on alright it will save you a lot of money.
Regards,
Rob.
Re: timing belt change?
Thanks Rob
In the haynes book of lies it says completely rmove the exhaust otherwise the flexible joint will be damaged.. I had a look around and tbh I cant see that this really needs to be done?
Do you remove this or just make sure the engine is supported properly when the top mount is removed?
In the haynes book of lies it says completely rmove the exhaust otherwise the flexible joint will be damaged.. I had a look around and tbh I cant see that this really needs to be done?
Do you remove this or just make sure the engine is supported properly when the top mount is removed?
Re: timing belt change?
There is no need to remove the exhaust, I always support the engine with an axle stand.
You can lower the engine a long way down without any problems, I always lower the engine to make it easier to get to the water pump.
An easy way of undoing the bottom pulley nut is to fit your socket and socket bar onto the nut and turn the bar until it sits onto the subframe, with the car out of gear, turn the key and the shock will undo the nut, very simple, but take care and do this at your own risk.
Before you strip the belt off, also mark the position of the bottom timing belt pulley in relation to the keyway, on some of these the pulley can move, so make sure it goes back in the same position.
When you tension the belt, make sure the tensioner pulley can just be turned by hand, not easily and not with great force, tension the belt with the camshaft locking pin removed and the opposite side to the tensioner tight.
I have done more than fifty of these timing belts.
You can lower the engine a long way down without any problems, I always lower the engine to make it easier to get to the water pump.
An easy way of undoing the bottom pulley nut is to fit your socket and socket bar onto the nut and turn the bar until it sits onto the subframe, with the car out of gear, turn the key and the shock will undo the nut, very simple, but take care and do this at your own risk.
Before you strip the belt off, also mark the position of the bottom timing belt pulley in relation to the keyway, on some of these the pulley can move, so make sure it goes back in the same position.
When you tension the belt, make sure the tensioner pulley can just be turned by hand, not easily and not with great force, tension the belt with the camshaft locking pin removed and the opposite side to the tensioner tight.
I have done more than fifty of these timing belts.
Re: timing belt change?
No you don't need to touch the exhaust. Put a flat block of wood under the sump, slacken the mount and then jack the engine very carefully until the mount clears the height of the bolts, no more (approx 2ins) and it's alright to sit like that until you are done. If you want to send me a stamped, addressed envelope I will send you the tool for locking the crank and you could return it when finished but they are only approx £10 to buy. You don't need air. Also a good chance to clean your intercooler when doing the job as there is always a build up of oil in there, some gunk and a hose then dry with an airline but make sure it's dry. The job's not difficult just take your time.
With all timming belts always turn the engine twice by hand and if you don't get lock up doing that your not going to get it when you turn the key. just make sure the same marks come back up and the pins will go back in and I can assure you it is safe. You can do it.
Rob.
With all timming belts always turn the engine twice by hand and if you don't get lock up doing that your not going to get it when you turn the key. just make sure the same marks come back up and the pins will go back in and I can assure you it is safe. You can do it.
Rob.
Re: timing belt change?
Thanks guys
Re: timing belt change?
All my driving is short city trips so I decided to do it now.
I did the belts, pulleys and water pump change this weekend. All went well so just to repeat thankyou for your very helpful info.
Al
I did the belts, pulleys and water pump change this weekend. All went well so just to repeat thankyou for your very helpful info.
Al
Re: timing belt change?
I know this is a slightly older thread, but I'm planning to do get this very soon (engines done 134k, and I've no service history )
I got the timing belt kit from the local stealers with a 30% discount. The water pump and crank pulley are both on their way from Fleabay Once these arrive I'll be starting the job the weekend after. Is there anything else thats worth changing while i'm rooting round in this area?
How hard is the crank pulley to remove? I don't yet have a puller, but can get one easily if i need it, I'd just rather get one in advance if I'm going to need it.
Finally how long do the 2 locking pins need to be? Is the tail of an 8mm drill enough, or is it worth getting some 8mm rod, and knocking a couple of pins up?
Any other special tools I'll need besides a couple of pins and maybe a puller (I've got a general selection of normal tools.)
How long would you expect this to take roughly (I've done 1 belt before on a VW TDi, and I've got reasonable aptitude with a big hammer)
If anyone wants I can take photo's/notes and knock up a how to guide to supplement the Haynes Manual as I go.
)I got the timing belt kit from the local stealers with a 30% discount. The water pump and crank pulley are both on their way from Fleabay Once these arrive I'll be starting the job the weekend after. Is there anything else thats worth changing while i'm rooting round in this area?
How hard is the crank pulley to remove? I don't yet have a puller, but can get one easily if i need it, I'd just rather get one in advance if I'm going to need it.
Finally how long do the 2 locking pins need to be? Is the tail of an 8mm drill enough, or is it worth getting some 8mm rod, and knocking a couple of pins up?
Any other special tools I'll need besides a couple of pins and maybe a puller (I've got a general selection of normal tools.)
How long would you expect this to take roughly (I've done 1 belt before on a VW TDi, and I've got reasonable aptitude with a big hammer)
If anyone wants I can take photo's/notes and knock up a how to guide to supplement the Haynes Manual as I go.
'02 406 2.0 HDi Rapier Estate, now with added cruise control!
Re: timing belt change?
im sure if you take some pics and add a how to people would be very gratefull
EvilTwin wrote:I know this is a slightly older thread, but I'm planning to do get this very soon (engines done 134k, and I've no service history
I got the timing belt kit from the local stealers with a 30% discount. The water pump and crank pulley are both on their way from Fleabay Once these arrive I'll be starting the job the weekend after. Is there anything else thats worth changing while i'm rooting round in this area?
How hard is the crank pulley to remove? I don't yet have a puller, but can get one easily if i need it, I'd just rather get one in advance if I'm going to need it.
Finally how long do the 2 locking pins need to be? Is the tail of an 8mm drill enough, or is it worth getting some 8mm rod, and knocking a couple of pins up?
Any other special tools I'll need besides a couple of pins and maybe a puller (I've got a general selection of normal tools.)
How long would you expect this to take roughly (I've done 1 belt before on a VW TDi, and I've got reasonable aptitude with a big hammer)
If anyone wants I can take photo's/notes and knock up a how to guide to supplement the Haynes Manual as I go.
Re: timing belt change?
You won't need a puller for removing the crank pulley but the bolt will be very tight (see my earlier post in this thread for an easy way of undoing the bolt).
An 8mm bolt or drill bit will be fine for locking the cam, mark all the pulleys with tipex or paint before you strip the belt off.I never use locking tools when I do these, but I've done so many, they are second nature to me.
Have a small allen key ready for when you remove the fan belt for sticking through the holes in the tensioner block so that you can lock the tensioner whilst you remove the fan belt (replace the belt whilst you are at it).
You will need a torx socket bit for undoing the top engine mount bolts from the engine, can't remember the size, you will also need....
An axle stand or small jack for fitting under the sump, block of wood also (my axle stands fit the curve of the sump nicely.
22mm socket for the crank pulley,
15mm spanner for the fan belt tensioner,
16mm socket and extension for the top engine mount on the body,
16mm spanner for the engine steady bar bolts,
10mm spanner for the casing bolts,
10mm socket and ratchet for the casing bolts, also an extension bar, I use 3/8th drive, but 1/4 for the rear mounting bolt on the casing (behind the pipe at the back of the engine).
11mm socket for undoing the water pump bolts.
There is a steel bar going from back to front of the engine that can get in the way of removing the casing, take this off before trying to remove the casing.It helps when removing the casing, to lower the engine.
If you want a full how-to of my method of replacing the timing belt kit and water pump I will post it, text only, I have no pics.
An 8mm bolt or drill bit will be fine for locking the cam, mark all the pulleys with tipex or paint before you strip the belt off.I never use locking tools when I do these, but I've done so many, they are second nature to me.
Have a small allen key ready for when you remove the fan belt for sticking through the holes in the tensioner block so that you can lock the tensioner whilst you remove the fan belt (replace the belt whilst you are at it).
You will need a torx socket bit for undoing the top engine mount bolts from the engine, can't remember the size, you will also need....
An axle stand or small jack for fitting under the sump, block of wood also (my axle stands fit the curve of the sump nicely.
22mm socket for the crank pulley,
15mm spanner for the fan belt tensioner,
16mm socket and extension for the top engine mount on the body,
16mm spanner for the engine steady bar bolts,
10mm spanner for the casing bolts,
10mm socket and ratchet for the casing bolts, also an extension bar, I use 3/8th drive, but 1/4 for the rear mounting bolt on the casing (behind the pipe at the back of the engine).
11mm socket for undoing the water pump bolts.
There is a steel bar going from back to front of the engine that can get in the way of removing the casing, take this off before trying to remove the casing.It helps when removing the casing, to lower the engine.
If you want a full how-to of my method of replacing the timing belt kit and water pump I will post it, text only, I have no pics.
Re: timing belt change?
I found it straight forward to do with the help here and a little more from haynes for the torques etc The pulleys all came off ok (the crank being tight as advertised but I did it with a long arm on it) I found the new halfrauds socket set to be very useful (the one that goes over long studs etc as it made getting to the various bolts easier and quicker to undo/tighen before final tighten with 3/8 drive torque wrench.
The hole for timing on the flywheel is a bugger to find as you will need to move the starter motor to get to it as Jasper and Smee have already noted
I will try take a photo tomorrow. The rod for finding the mark should be a couple of cm longer than the start motor body so you can use it easier.
I didnt think to photo it
Just give yourself a weekend now the nights are drwing in and you should get it done. It will take a lot less time once you have done it once though
Al
The hole for timing on the flywheel is a bugger to find as you will need to move the starter motor to get to it as Jasper and Smee have already noted
I will try take a photo tomorrow. The rod for finding the mark should be a couple of cm longer than the start motor body so you can use it easier.
I didnt think to photo it
Just give yourself a weekend now the nights are drwing in and you should get it done. It will take a lot less time once you have done it once though
Al
Re: timing belt change?
Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll be stealing tippex from work first thing tomorrow, to be getting on with this. And popping to Halfrauds to get me a 22mm socket on my trade card.
Jasper, it sounds like you may have done a few to many of them, to be able to list every socket like that
Let Y'all know how it goes, To be honest it always seems like the minor stuff is the hard part (like getting the wheel arch liner out) the belt itself seems quite an easy part of the job.
Any tips on draining the coolant to do the water pump, or should i just pull the bottom Rad hose, and drop it down the drains?
BTW how much coolant's usually in the engine/rad/hoses etc? Just occured I'll need to buy some fresh antifreeze. Sorry, Mr Haines says 8.8L, so that'll be a 5l tub of coolant to pick up.
Jasper, it sounds like you may have done a few to many of them, to be able to list every socket like that
Let Y'all know how it goes, To be honest it always seems like the minor stuff is the hard part (like getting the wheel arch liner out) the belt itself seems quite an easy part of the job.
Any tips on draining the coolant to do the water pump, or should i just pull the bottom Rad hose, and drop it down the drains?
BTW how much coolant's usually in the engine/rad/hoses etc? Just occured I'll need to buy some fresh antifreeze. Sorry, Mr Haines says 8.8L, so that'll be a 5l tub of coolant to pick up.
'02 406 2.0 HDi Rapier Estate, now with added cruise control!
Re: timing belt change?
I've done more than 50 of these, I can do them in my sleep without using locking tools.
I usually do one of these in 2 to 3 hours, the trade "book time" is 2.9 hours.
I usually drain the cooling system by undoing the water pump bolts and pulling it off, even if you drain the radiator, the block will still be full of coolant which will pour out when you remove the water pump.
I usually fit 3 litres of antifreeze, but you may want to strengthen the mix or whatever.
without using locking tools.I usually do one of these in 2 to 3 hours, the trade "book time" is 2.9 hours.
I usually drain the cooling system by undoing the water pump bolts and pulling it off, even if you drain the radiator, the block will still be full of coolant which will pour out when you remove the water pump.
I usually fit 3 litres of antifreeze, but you may want to strengthen the mix or whatever.